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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    Charlotte, NC, USA
    Posts
    4

    Default Stain before penetrating epoxy?

    Hey Exports. I'm working on rebuilding a 1950's wooden runabout barn find. I replaced many of the screws and bungs and would like to stain the whole boat a pretty similar color to the original wood to hide some of the bungs/repairs etc. The wood definitely needs some penetrating epoxy to sure things up but I don't want the stain to prevent it from penetrating. Is it ok to stain before the penetrating epoxy? And if so what kind of stain should I be using or is there another way to achieve this?

    Thanks in advanced for your help.

    Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South Puget Sound/summer Eastern carib./winter
    Posts
    19,763

    Default Re: Stain before penetrating epoxy?

    choose one
    not both

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Coquitlam, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    163

    Default Re: Stain before penetrating epoxy?

    Water based stains or aniline dyes work fine under epoxy.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    74,602

    Default Re: Stain before penetrating epoxy?

    What Wiz said. I'd skip the CPES entirely.

    Here's a whole thread worth of elaboration -- http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...ogany-runabout
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Madison Wisconsin
    Posts
    10,190

    Default Re: Stain before penetrating epoxy?

    Water based stains or aniline dyes work fine under epoxy.
    I used aniline dye (aka alcohol-based stain - colored powder dissolved in alcohol) on the mahogany veneered sides of my Starboat and then coated it with WEST 105/207 epoxy. The brilliance and clarity of the stain was spectacular once coated and varnished. You do want to be certain that the stain/dye you are using is light-fast as some versions will tend to fade from exposure to sunlight. The first rolled-on coat of epoxy picked up a little bit of color and moved it around a bit, but did not create any obvious bald or thick spots in the stain color. CPES is mostly composed of strong solvents (along with a little bit of epoxy and a big load of B.S. if you ask me). I certainly would want to do some serious testing on scrap wood to find out what all that solvent is likely to do to your stain before I ever tried it on the actual boat.

    We used a lot of water-based stain on the trim inside of our house. It's another type of stain that normal epoxy won't mess with much, though we haven't found it to have quite the clarity that regular oil stain or aniline dye stains have. Again, I'd want to do some testing to see how it reacts to the CPES solvents before trying it on a boat. I don't know exactly what you are expecting the CPES to do for the wood, but I suspect there is something else that would do it better.

    Also be aware, if it matters, that if you go to a show of old restored wooden runabouts, you can walk up and down the docks and tell instantly which ones have been epoxy sealed and/or coated, as opposed to just the original-style grain filler, stain and varnish. The originals look original and the coated ones generally look fake. There is just something about that finish that stands out like a sore thumb and looks somewhat plastic", even when very well done.

    The Star - sliced mahogany veneer applied with WEST 105/205 epoxy, sanded then two rolled on coats of alcohol based stain, followed by five thin rolled-on coats of WEST 105/207 epoxy, sanded smooth and varnished with Captains Varnish.

    star.jpg

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