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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    7,130

    Default Instructions help

    Working on getting these barn doors installed. I’ve got the 5055 hangers.

    Looking at the attachment; what do you think the “1” max.” on the 2x8 refers to? I’m at a loss.

    Maybe it is trying to keep the top lag bolt from being too close to the top edge? Seems like a goofy answer.

    Hoping you guys have a better interpretation.

    48CF8FBD-C56A-47E4-90E5-872A2CFFF4D3.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    central cal
    Posts
    21,798

    Default Re: Instructions help

    It means a 1” overlap is the maximum allowable.

    Why? Because otherwise the doors would hang up.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Texas
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    7,130

    Default Re: Instructions help

    That didn’t occur to me. I think you’re right although I don’t see what would make the doors hang up if I had a bigger overlap. As long they were hanging plumb. Thanks!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Hills of Vermont, USA
    Posts
    39,952

    Default Re: Instructions help

    My track (same brand I believe) is 1 1/2" up from the bottom of the board it's attached to:

    DoorTrackSmall.jpg

    It's worked fine for a year +
    "If it ain't broke, you're not trying." - Red Green

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    St. Helens, Oregon
    Posts
    3,105

    Default Re: Instructions help

    Apples and oranges shown dimensionally, though. The directions are measuring to the top of the actual door/shutter. Looks like yours is measuring to the bottom of the track flange? Looks nice, though....got pics of the rest of the installation?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Hills of Vermont, USA
    Posts
    39,952

    Default Re: Instructions help

    The top of the door is roughly even with the bottom of the board the track is attached to - the door may be 1/8" above the bottom.

    Thanks!

    BarnSnowCropped.jpg
    "If it ain't broke, you're not trying." - Red Green

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Texas
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    Default Re: Instructions help

    Shop envy. Or even home envy.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Hills of Vermont, USA
    Posts
    39,952

    Default Re: Instructions help

    Thanks. This has been planned for 15+ years & was finally able to pull it off. 1/3 shop (yet to be insulated & behind the doors with the wreath) 2/3 equipment storage. Sure is nice to have stuff indoors instead of under tarps!
    "If it ain't broke, you're not trying." - Red Green

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    St. Helens, Oregon
    Posts
    3,105

    Default Re: Instructions help

    WOW! That is gorgeous!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South Puget Sound/summer Eastern carib./winter
    Posts
    19,596

    Default Re: Instructions help

    GD Garret ! That's what I shoulda built!

    Jan wanted steps on the outside, separating the loft better.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Hills of Vermont, USA
    Posts
    39,952

    Default Re: Instructions help

    Thank you all! I'm pleased with how it came out. While the framing is all regular storebought (& the metal roof you can't see), the siding (which you can see a closeup of in the track pic) is all local wood from a local mill that (damnit!) burned last fall. They call it "drop siding" & I think it looks great. PITA to stain though... Oh - the stairs are all local cedar & the 6x10 beam behind the door is local hemlock as well.
    "If it ain't broke, you're not trying." - Red Green

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Almost in BC, CA
    Posts
    6,707

    Default Re: Instructions help

    Last summer I put up a door with that hardware. The diagram on the instruction sheet is poorly done. The door will hang an inch or more below the track, not butted up against the track as shown (see Garret's photo). The "1" max " dimension is to insure the bolt heads (or nuts) are below the 2X8 and don't rub. I used a 2X10 and countersunk the nuts on the inside of the door, so the amount of overlap between the door and the 2X10 doesn't matter. I have a 3" overlap with no problems.

    IMG_2253.jpg

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    7,130

    Default Re: Instructions help

    Makes sense. Thanks. I’m going to have to move my blocking. They do hand down quite a bit compared to the instructions. Darnit.

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