Standing Rig Dressing?

[kbowen]

The discussions I have found so far on the forum seem targeted to putting "Boat Soup" on wood, I am interested in protecting wire rope. In particular, is there a formula which will cure enough that it won't be sticky to the touch when you grab a shroud? The wire I am using is 7x19 powder-coated black. This was theatrical rigging wire which I had lying around from my previous profession, (free) and it has held up well for 3 summers, but the inter-strand lubrication that it comes with has dried out and it is asking for some water-proofing. I have terminated it theatre-style with Nicopress swage fittings and served the ends and crimps with tarred marline. I understand that this is not a 15-year rigging job, but I hope to get another couple years out of it before I have to re-rig it like an adult.

The best other thread I have hound for recipes is

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?284061-Mixing-Stockholm-Tar-Boat-Soup

Please advise,

Ken

[wizbang 13]

Re: Standing Rig Dressing?

Can you just “paint” it with Ospho or the rust stuff that turns black?
then paint it with “Corrosion X”?
oh hey! Thread drift… I’m three miles off SXM hove to waiting for daylight to enter, 68 hours out of Bequia!

[Marty J]

Re: Standing Rig Dressing?

I've been pleased with Lanocote.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/systems-propulsion/tef-gel-vs-lanocote

[wizbang 13]

Re: Standing Rig Dressing?

I've been pleased with Lanocote.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sys...el-vs-lanocote

Good under a parceling, messy otherwise

[Nicholas Carey]

Re: Standing Rig Dressing?

We have discussed this before — http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...serve-supplies

And so has Brion Toss (may be rest in peace) in his most excellent tome, The Complete Rigger's Apprentice (which you should obtain):

- https://www.mhprofessional.com/the-c...0071849784-usa

- https://www.theartfulsailor.com/cata...ers-apprentice

- https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Rigg.../dp/0071849785

Brion's recipe for rigging slush is

- 6 parts pine tar
- 3 parts linseed oil
- 1 part varnish
- 1 part japan drier

For non-stainless rigging[1], the general procedure is something like

- Slush the bare rigging

- Worm the rigging (if the type and size of wire warrants it). Worming is laying tarred seine twine of appropriate size along the lay of the wire rope, so it more closely approximates a cylinder, tying them off at the ends with a double constrictor knot.

- Parcel the rigging, wrapping it with tarred fabric electrical/friction tape.

- Slush that

- Serve the rigging (wrapping it with tarred seine twine), for which you need some special tools (e.g., a serving mallet, which Toss' book will help you build).

- Finally slush the service, and install the rig.

Apply new slush every year or two as needed.

[1] Why non-stainless rigging? Stainless steel is only "stainless" because it's designed to have a permanent thin layer of oxide on its surface that protects it from corrosion. It needs to be continually exposed to air to do its job. If it is not so exposed, it's subject to crevice corrosion.

That stainless bolt at the bottom? That's 5 years old. The other bolts are from the same rudder assembly are original to the boat.

[Breakaway]

Can you just “paint” it with Ospho or the rust stuff that turns black?
then paint it with “Corrosion X”?
oh hey! Thread drift… I’m three miles off SXM hove to waiting for daylight to enter, 68 hours out of Bequia!

Cool.

Have fun in Sint Martin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Rumars]

Re: Standing Rig Dressing?

Boeshield or similar products won't remain sticky. If you are willing to serve a few feet, there are better products then "boat soup" for example cable grease. https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/seilfe...cription-title

[kbowen]

Re: Standing Rig Dressing?

So today I stopped by Brion Toss Rigging, talked to Ian, and also talked to Emiliano at "The Artful Sailor' in Port Townsend. Emiliano says any amount of pine tar will leave the rigging sticky for a long time, but it will eventually harden. He recommended straight linseed oil if you don't want to track it around, and also recommends serious parcel and serve treatment. He likes friction tape for parcel, but Ian thinks it creeps around over time and doesn't stay in place. Ian showed me some neat, non-sticky dressing that was a mix of water-based commercial fishing "net-dip" mixed with black latex paint, but it remains unknown where to get pleasure-boat quantities of the net-dip. I also bought the "Riggers Apprentice" book which has various formulas in it, and I haven't studied yet. Tim Lee, formerly of Northwest School of Wooden Boat Building, now of The Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-op, says he doesn't use tar on his ratlines because it tracks all over the decks, but otherwise uses a 50/50 mix of pine tar & commercial oil based black paint, with Turpentine & Japan Drier as desired. This is what I have heard so-far, all second-hand... I will continue peeling the onion, please continue to contribute your experience!!

Ken