Lee Valley Slick

[nedL]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

All I can say about your question is, ...can you shave the back of your wrist with it?

[Canoeyawl]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

A boatbuilders slick will always have to hole in it for a screw.

Two reasons, one is so you can knock it down to fit in your "kit" at the end of the day, and the other is that a boatbuilder will often be working above other men, and that handle can and will come loose.
A slick is a heavy precision tool for fine work, sharpened every bit as sharp as any other paring chisel. It can be dangerous, that "chisel" is heavy enough to cut your toes off dropped from the height of a workbench. If it won't, it is not sharp enough...
(The screw is a good thing and is the difference between a professional and a dilettante)

[StevenBauer]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

Bob, have you ever bought an edge tool from Lee Valley or Lie Nielson?


Steven

[SMARTINSEN]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

This line of tools for working with big wood seems to be quite good:

https://barrtools.com/

[paulf]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

I've got one, they are well made, from China, and yes you can shave with it...a bit heavy tho!

Very good deal.

I use it for log work and rustic log furniture..also boat work.

[Canoez]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

Bob, have you ever bought an edge tool from Lee Valley or Lie Nielson?


Steven

Second that notion. I've had planes from both vendors - they arrived sharp enough to shave with.

[Gerarddm]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

Bought a wonderful carbon steel 3" slick for $85 off eBay a few years ago. A wonderful thing.

[Sailor]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

Thanks all. I'm not sure I could shave with it. I'll have to try it and see. I am worried the fit won't keep the handle in place if I were to hold the tool sharp edge downward. As mentioned, it can and will work loose was in my mind when I saw the screw. There is not a leather guard for it but it comes with a magnetic metal clip that covers the edge very nicely and being magnetic, won't come loose in a tool box. Every bit as good as a leather wrap. Maybe I'll make a leather sheath for it. I have about 3/4 of a cow hide in red leather that I picked up in Souda Bay this year. It's a little thin but I can always put a thick piece inside to protect the edge more. Then again, with a metal clip over the end, it won't cut through anyway.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts and comments.
Daniel

[Jim Mahan]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

It's a little thin but I can always put a thick piece inside to protect the edge more.

Embed the magnetic piece inside the end of the scabbard you make for it. The magnet would help keep the sheath on. Sort of like belt and suspenders.

[Paul Schweiss]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

My ancient Barton slick always had a pronounced curve to the cutting edge, as did every other slick in the shop. This was to help prevent the corners from digging in and gouging the work surface. We used them to pare bungs down, even Red Cedar on a 65' motor yacht.
Hopefully the metal portion of the handle has been bent up from the plane of the bottom of the slick so the tool can ride flat on the work surface, makes all the difference to your knuckles.

[Sailor]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

The handle is cranked up to allow that. There is a bit of rocker to the length of the tool so it won't lay perfectly flat. I'm told this allows you to steer the cut upward if it catches a grain and tries to steer down into the wood past your line. There is no camber to the cutting edge though. It's perfectly flat across.

[paulf]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

The handle is cranked up to allow that. There is a bit of rocker to the length of the tool so it won't lay perfectly flat. I'm told this allows you to steer the cut upward if it catches a grain and tries to steer down into the wood past your line. There is no camber to the cutting edge though. It's perfectly flat across.

You will be able to hone in the camber. the first one I received ,the socket for the handle had rise but was bent to the left. I sent it back and they replaced it with a straight one but with rise.
The rocker may be a quality control issue, as mine is dead flat machined.
I'm not sure that rocker is a design feature. These are from China...

I determined how much it would cost me to make my own and the time required..the price is good even with the glitches.

[jpatrick]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

I'm told this allows you to steer the cut upward if it catches a grain and tries to steer down into the wood past your line.

When paring something like a bung, the first thing to do is to take a shallow slice from the top. This will show which direction the wood wants to split. Adjust your direction of cut to accommodate.

Jeff

[Sailor]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

True but when cutting a scarph joint, you can't adjust for that. Therefore you have a rockered sole to the tool so you can adjust the aim of the edge. that's how it was explained to me. So yes, it is designed into the tool. I have yet to try it out so I will not know until I do.

[Jay Greer]

Re: Lee Valley Slick

None of my slicks have a screw in the ferrule to hold the handle in. I fit the handle by using either chalk or carbon paper and do a scraper fit. Although my handles fit tight and are tapped on the end when fitted for use. I never carry or lift my slicks by the handle, always by the ferrule. I remove the handles by tapping the side of the ferrule with a small mallet or hunk of scrap. The blade is stored in a wooden scabbard made to fit the blade. Scabbards are varnished on the outside and end up being oiled on the inside from the camellia oil on the blades. No rust!
Jay