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why did i ever varnish

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  • #16
    Re: why did i ever varnish

    I’ve been using waterborne lacquer, clear and pigmented, and a waterborne conversion varnish on cabinets and furniture with good results. Turbine hvlp.

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    • #17
      Re: why did i ever varnish

      Originally posted by L.W. Baxter
      i knew an older lady who was like that with frank's redhot.
      Is that what he called it?
      I've heard everything now...

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      • #18
        Re: why did i ever varnish

        IMG_1891.jpgIMG_1802.jpgConversion varnish( waterborne)

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        • #19
          Re: why did i ever varnish

          I may be the exception but for furniture I love putting down multiple coated of original waterlux, letting it sit for weeks and then rubbing out with pumice and rottenstone. I love the look and it is very durable.

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          • #20
            Re: why did i ever varnish

            Shellac, finishes reflow with alcohol for mending scratches. I acquired a 1911 Pilliod Bros. Machinist Tool Chest in very good condition. But it had a century of grime. This was pre internet so I guess I was smarter back then. The chest cleaned up and the reflowed shellac was beautiful.

            Tom

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            • #21
              Re: why did i ever varnish

              lovely work, jtb.

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              • #22
                Re: why did i ever varnish

                Having spent too many years in wood shops without proper protection Ive become sensitized to the ketones in most lacquer based finishes to the point that unless the finish is totally cured I cant be around the stuff.
                Shellac is pretty much my go to finish for furniture. Its also a great primer. Much better and cheaper than commercial "Sanding Sealers". Its a great primer for varnish, it can be tinted to any color you can think of, its safe to use on kids toys; they can chew on 'em with no ill effect.
                Ive yet to find a waterbased finish that Im happy with...

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                • #23
                  Re: why did i ever varnish

                  For interior I use Danish oil on my oak furniture and kitchen worktops. Easy to apply and reapply when needed. Seems surprisingly tough. UK oak soaks up stuff though.

                  I recently bought a proper workbench...was all set to build one...then one just turned up, as they do.

                  Anyway, it's better than the floor or old kitchen cabinets that I had been using. It was 'low mileage' to be fair, but a No.80 cabinet scraper then two coats of Cuprinol then two coats of Pure Tung Oil and I'm ready to show her off.

                  Pure Tung oil doesn't allow fungus to grow apparently compared to BLO. Easy to apply, leave for a bit then wipe off the excess. Cuprinol was belts and braces, as British winters are damp. It's a Diefenbach a German cabinet makers bench. A British Nicholson is still probably best for working planks with that deep apron, but it's an upgrade. Spur twin slot shelving got my wood off the floor, and some LED lighting (inc a 120 x 30 panel light) over the bench has made things much better. Next job is electrics improving from the one socket...to eight doubles.

                  IMG_0943.jpg


                  IMG_0945.jpg
                  Last edited by Edward Pearson; 05-24-2023, 09:11 AM.

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                  • #24
                    Re: why did i ever varnish

                    nice looking bench
                    Simpler is better, except when complicated looks really cool.

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                    • #25
                      Re: why did i ever varnish

                      Maybe too nice Paul. An 'altar' as Frank Klausz calls his bench.

                      One interesting feature is it uses an anti-racking disc. Though the vice mechanism is hell for stout anyway. The rebated steel disc you revolve on the thread to where you want it.

                      IMG_0946.jpg


                      IMG_0947.jpg

                      IMG_0948.jpg

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                      • #26
                        Re: why did i ever varnish

                        25/75 Thinned out shellac, then 50/50 thinned shellac, then 25/75 thinned shellac, then 50/50 thinned Benjamin Moore 440 spar varnish, then 25/75 thinned spar varnish. Block sand between each coat with 600 grit wet-dry paper on a block. Finish up with rotten stone and oil for a satin finish, rotten stone and water for a glossier finish.

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                        • #27
                          Re: why did i ever varnish

                          Originally posted by Canoeyawl
                          I worked part time in a shop doing motorcycle work when the first catalyzed automotive paints came on the market. The guys that were used to spraying lacquer (nitrocellulose) never bothered to wear a mask. One evening one of them spraying his own car project with the new sh!t and died between coats, the catalyzed paint kicking off in his lungs, slowly suffocating him with no cure...
                          Most two-part paint systems (Imron, etc.) use an isocyanate solvent, which attacks the lungs to the point where it is lethal. Auto plants refused to used it for some time, and when it is used, it needs a pressurized respirator. It is the chemical that poisoned Bhopal India. Boaters tend to be way too casual when using these paint systems, more commonly used on fiberglass.

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                          • #28
                            Re: why did i ever varnish

                            Originally posted by willin woodworks
                            Having spent too many years in wood shops without proper protection Ive become sensitized to the ketones in most lacquer based finishes to the point that unless the finish is totally cured I cant be around the stuff.
                            Shellac is pretty much my go to finish for furniture. Its also a great primer. Much better and cheaper than commercial "Sanding Sealers". Its a great primer for varnish, it can be tinted to any color you can think of, its safe to use on kids toys; they can chew on 'em with no ill effect.
                            Ive yet to find a waterbased finish that Im happy with...
                            My understanding is that sanding sealer is shellac with added sodium stearate.Which is the stuff they coat the better fine silicon carbide paper with to prevent it loading up with the dust from the process.I quite like a shellac sealing coat,followed by varnish for a bit more durability than the shellac would have.

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