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Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

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  • #16
    Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

    Mon 23 Jul 2012

    The night passed quietly with no rain and the wind dropped a little overnight. We set the destination rendezvous for the day as the campsite on Gilbert Island, near Effingham, towards the outer edge of the Broken Group. The day started to brighten while we were having breakfast and by the time we got going at about 1000, it was partially sunny. By this time the wind had stated to pick up again and it was blowing right through the pass near the campsite.

    Bandwagon and Big Food outside the lagoon with the white sand beach


    I rowed over to a white sand beach in a lagoon-like setting on Dempster Island I remembered from previous visits, and after a false start, found the entrance. James joined me and later Tim came in but Eric never found us.

    The beach/lagoon




    We looked at the tide pools and admired the setting then moved out, intending to stop at, perhaps, Keith Island for lunch. By the time we got there, though, the wind picked up more and was blowing right on the beach so stopping was out. I changed my rig down to the main mast in the centre position but found that as I got out into the main channel for the reach to Gilbert, I was dipping the lee rail more than I liked in the gusts, so down came the main and up went the mizzen in its place. That was just right for the gusts, though perhaps a little underpowered for the lulls, but I was willing to give up overall speed for keeping the boat more upright. We later estimated the wind at about 18 kts. Prior to this, I was gaining on Big Food and Bandwagon, but Eric passed me after I changed to the mizzen, even though he had a reef in.

    From this point it was a beat/close reach all the way across Coaster Channel to Gilbert Island, starboard tack all the way. James had forged ahead – ideal conditions for Rowan with just one reef. I started to catch Eric when I found the groove, but Tim found the conditions to be exactly wrong for Big Food in terms of the period of the chop and the sail area he could carry and so he fell behind. James went back to shepherd him along. As we got closer, I found I couldn’t quite fetch the light on the small island we had to get round the north of to get to Gilbert so had to throw in a short tack to clear it and then carry on, on a close reach to the campground. We had been seeing another small lug yawl who converged on the campground at the same time. It turned out to be Chris from Delta, BC, in his Welsford Walkabout. He’d been out 6 days and was anchoring in various protected nooks around the Broken Group. It was unusual to have this many sail and oar boats in this area at once. Last year I was a decided rarity with Hornpipe.

    By the time we landed, it was a late lunch for me and about ¾ of an hour later Tim and James came in. It had been a great sail, fast and challenging, although the glorious sunshine of earlier had given way to low cloud. Clothesline moorings were rigged and camps set up and the crab pot went down.

    Gilbert Island campsite

    (p.s. the white horizontal thing on the bow is a detachable lifting handle to prevent the arm strain I experienced last year on these same beaches while hauling the boat up on the sand as the tide comes in. I can now strain both arms and my back at once!)

    There is a trail through to a cove on the other side of the island that yielded enough firewood for a fire that evening. Normally a crowded campsite, the only other people there was a couple kayak camping with 2 very young children. What a great way to introduce them to an active life. As they grow older, it will just seem normal.
    Last edited by AJZimm; 08-01-2012, 12:45 PM. Reason: correcdt the date
    Alex

    “It's only those who do nothing that make no mistakes, I suppose.” - Joseph Conrad, An Outcast of the Islands

    http://www.alexzimmerman.ca

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    • #17
      Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

      Oh. . . .I don't think I went back to "shepherd" Tim so much as that I was enjoying the sailing conditions so greatly that I wanted to sail the course twice over. Wasn't ready to stop.

      Everyone knows I would have ditched Big Food in a microsecond if there had been even better sailing on the other side of Effingham. Of course, this was before I knew that Tim had that terrific scotch packed away.

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      • #18
        Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

        Yep, I missed the boys at that hidden beach on Dempster. I was having so much fun sailing through the inner channels that I did not follow Tim around the corner. Soon after, Chris sailed by and we greeted each other for the first time. And a little while after that, I was sidling around the outside (exposed side) of Dempster where I thought they might be hanging out, with some foul ground about and the wind kicking up, regretting losing track of my boatmates. I was looking at what felt llike a serious crossing and wondering if I was going to see the guys on the other side and if I wanted to make that crossing alone.

        Then they popped out from behind the channel. I was relieved. This day turned into a kick ass sail with the first bit of serious wind for my new rig. I went with a single reef and the boat got into a great groove. I just wanted to keep sailing and took an extra tack or two across the big channel. I also noticed Chris looked mighty comfortable out there some distance upwind of me. I was very happy with how Bandwagon was pointing, how she stood up, and how dry she stayed.

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        • #19
          Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

          Great trip and good story. Looking forward to more..... Gotta-Love cruising the Broken Group.

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          • #20
            Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

            I'm loving this - brilliant photography - bring it on
            "Old boats are like teenage girlfriends: there is a certain urgency to their needs & one neglects them at one's peril"

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            • #21
              Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

              Originally posted by snow(Alan H)
              I'm loving this
              me too
              Simpler is better, except when complicated looks really cool.

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

                What a lovely adventure. Keep it comin' Gents!
                David G
                Harbor Woodworks
                https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/

                "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

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                • #23
                  Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

                  I assume you had GPS to cope with possible fog or sea smoke?
                  Gerard>
                  Albuquerque, NM

                  Next election, vote against EVERY Republican, for EVERY office, at EVERY level. Be patriotic, save the country.

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                  • #24
                    Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

                    Originally posted by Gerarddm
                    I assume you had GPS to cope with possible fog or sea smoke?
                    Heck ya, mister. And paper charts and compasses.
                    Originally posted by James McMullen
                    Yeadon is right, of course.

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                    • #25
                      Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

                      ooh I forgot to mention the surfing and thrilling speeds reached in that big channel on the way to Gilbert. I think Gilbert was when Alex first pulled out the harmonica and began his chantey lessons.

                      I had GPS, VHF, charts, compasses, lights of various kinds including a strobe, a foghorn, and hopefully a whistle with the flair kit. Never looked at the GPS. Did some compass orientation with the charts, occasionally listened to VHF.

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                      • #26
                        Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

                        Tue 24 Jul 2012

                        Clothesline moorings were rigged the night before and the crab pot was dropped into the water. In the morning, the pot yielded enough fresh red rock crab to provide an appetizer for breakfast and to allow James to begin to assume his new title of Crab Slayer. Having not packed a cleaver, his technique became refined over the week, eventually ending up with the rock-as-anvil and sharp-rock-as-cleaver method.

                        In the morning, as I had elected to let my boat sit on the beach overnight, there was the task of getting it down to the low tide mark. In the soft sand, this was more work than I remembered at the same cove last year, but the 2 kids helped by carrying the roller sticks from bow to stern – couldn’t have done it without them.

                        The day’s rendezvous was set for the campground on Turret Island, one that I hadn’t been back to since my initial visit nearly 20 years ago. The plan was generally to go out into the open ocean and look for whales and sea lions. I was a little later getting underway and went east and south of Austin Island, just drifting along in the lee, really. Once past Austin I found about 10 kts and sailed out into Imperial Eagle Channel before turning back towards Austin. I was just tacking back upwind between some off-lying rocks when a grey whale surfaced a couple of times not 2 boat lengths from me - as close an encounter with a multi-ton animal as I want to have.

                        The sun was starting to break through again and I tacked upwind to Dicebox Island where I stopped for lunch in the cove on the lee side and went to look at the sea cave around the corner.

                        Cove on Dicebox Island


                        After lunch I went looking for the sea lions that usually hang out west of Wouwer and Batley Islands. The channel between them was directly upwind and the wind was stronger so I reduced sail to a double reefed main an full mizzen. The sail area was about right but the reefed sail doesn’t point quite as well. I thought I might be able to sail through the narrowest part of the channel between the two islands, but at the last minute, it was too narrow and I was making too much leeway so I dropped sail and rowed upwind to the usual sea lion hangout. They weren’t there – maybe they stepped out for lunch – so I raised sail again and bore away north for Turret. It was another fast close reach across Coaster Channel in about 10-15 kts.

                        Crossing Coaster Channel towards Turret Isl


                        I arrived about 1500 and found the campground empty in the sunshine so it looked promising for the night. I commandeered the best fire pit/beach log kitchen setup and set the boat out on the clothesline mooring. A couple of kayakers came in next and it turns out I knew them – the world is a smaller place than we think. The family from Gilbert Island also came in and finally, about 1700, the other sail and oar boats arrived. After much messing about with moorings and anchors, we got settled for night with James again electing to sleep aboard on Rowan under his new tent.

                        Turret Isl Campground beach


                        Hornpipe and Rowan on moorings
                        Alex

                        “It's only those who do nothing that make no mistakes, I suppose.” - Joseph Conrad, An Outcast of the Islands

                        http://www.alexzimmerman.ca

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

                          The size of the beach 'driftwood' is very impressive (scary) do you get much of the floating around?
                          "Old boats are like teenage girlfriends: there is a certain urgency to their needs & one neglects them at one's peril"

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

                            Think of the storms that put them up on the beach. Now, that's scary.
                            Originally posted by James McMullen
                            Yeadon is right, of course.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

                              Originally posted by snow(Alan H)
                              The size of the beach 'driftwood' is very impressive (scary) do you get much of the floating around?
                              There is not nearly as much as there used to be. Many of the large logs on the beaches broke loose from open booms of logs being towed from the forests to the mills. Now there is both less logging and a lot more logs are being transported on log barges, so there is less loss. Many of these logs on the beaches are decades old.

                              35 years ago, when I was in the Navy, one of tasks of the bridge lookouts was to watch for floating logs, especially "deadheads" - logs that have become waterlogged and are floating vertically with just a few few feet showing or worse, just awash. Now I don't seem to see as many, although that is purely subjective on my part.
                              Last edited by AJZimm; 08-01-2012, 06:02 PM. Reason: spelling
                              Alex

                              “It's only those who do nothing that make no mistakes, I suppose.” - Joseph Conrad, An Outcast of the Islands

                              http://www.alexzimmerman.ca

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Re: Bandwagon, Big Food, Hornpipe & Rowan do Barkley Sound

                                Wed 25 Jul 2012

                                The previous evening, it cleared off completely by about 1900 but the next morning we awoke to fog and dead calm. The forecast was for clearing by late morning but we were in no hurry to get going until we had visibility and wind. More crab for breakfast, courtesy of the Crab Slayer.

                                Morning fog on Turret


                                The original plan was to head across Imperial Eagle Channel to the Deer Group over near Bamfield, outside of the Park, as it appeared the winds would be favourable. It is a 4 mile crossing and it totally exposed to the open Pacific. Not a big deal if the weather is moderate, but the afternoon winds can build pretty quickly.

                                The fog lifted about 1030-1100 and we were moving by 1130-ish. Nice sunshine and about an 8-10 kt breeze from the southwest, however, while it was clear over the Broken Group and Vancouver Island to the east, there was serious fog obscuring the Deer Group and also on the other side of the Broken Group in Loudon Channel towards Ucluelet. We decided to head over to Effingham Island, the potential jumping-off point for the crossing, to see if the fog might lift by then. We sailed across Coaster Channel again, got in behind the wind shadow of Effingham, and you could see that the fog was being fed by a conveyor belt from offshore, being pumped in as fast as it was dissipating further in. James immediately set to fishing while the rest of us drifted around looking for wind. I had lunch while waiting and James rowed over to announce he had caught 3 fish – a promising foundation for supper. We all had a gam and decided that the fog wasn’t going anywhere and that the Deer Group was out for today, so we switched destinations to Dodd Island campground.

                                Rowan (I think) near Effingham


                                Big Food (maybe) near Effingham


                                Fog over Deer Group 3 miles away


                                The wind was back again and we had a good reach across to the east side of Turtle Island then some tricky light wind sailing through the passages to the campground beach. There were a few kayakers there and a few more came in but there is plenty of room at this campsite. James came in later, having proved to himself that Dodd is in fact an island, by sailing around it.

                                Dodd Island beach


                                The fish yielded a fillet each, and mine, greenling pan-fried with a little oil, was superb.
                                Alex

                                “It's only those who do nothing that make no mistakes, I suppose.” - Joseph Conrad, An Outcast of the Islands

                                http://www.alexzimmerman.ca

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