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  • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

    Ok guys, I gotta say I am gettin' pretty excited about how the boat is turning out so far. I was doing some measuring tonight. I put my strong back on the tip of the stem, and leveled it up. Then I measured back to the center of where I need my mast to be. I ain't blowing smoke here, but I nailed my dimensions within 1/16 of an inch. My mast position with the jib is going to be right next to bulkhead #3, with the center of effort just a little be forward of the center of lateral plane. Perfect! The bulkhead will help provide support to the partner, and the step. I have a 1/2" piece of marine grade plywood I am going to use for the partner and the step. I still plan on covering them with epoxy, and maybe even a layer of 4oz glass.

    I also assembled my center aka housings (cross beams). I still need to cover them with epoxy and glass, but I am pleasantly surprised to find that I won't have to shim them up any to let the akas clear the deck. I was looking at the swing radius in my AutoCAD drawings, and since I was looking at the position of the aka end when folded from the side, it looked like it was going to crash against the deck, so I was planning on having to shim it up 3". Turns out, I don't need to shim at all. It was my eyes playing tricks on me in AutoCAD. I also made some 1/8" thick aluminum plates and bent them to match the angle between the sides and the aka housings. I plan on gluing the aka housings to the decks with epoxy, but I still want that extra warm fuzzy feeling that the akas ain't gonna rip up from the boat. I am seriously thinking about putting some water stays on the forward aka housings to help keep the tension on the shrouds going up to the top of the mast. I think I can get away with just attaching the shrouds to the aft side of the aka housings with a chain plate, and that will give me almost a 90deg swing for the sail boom. I never have swung my current boat's sail out to 90 deg even when going dead down wind because I go faster drawing it in a bit, but I like options. The only draw back is that is with the sloop rig. If I run just the main sail, I need to move to my forward mast position, which is 22 inches forward, and I won't get as much boom swing. But wait, without the jib, I don't really need shrouds... well, maybe. I will have to run the numbers again. I have decided to make the mast a rectangle / oval shape that is 2.5 x 4 inches. That is almost double what the formula's said I need, so I should be well within limits. If you want to see how I learned to do these calculations, go here: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...Mast-Diameters . Everybody was very helpful, especially Tad. Check out the pictures:

    Here are the aluminum brackets I am making for the aka housings. I also needed some spacers to shim the rudder gudgeons out a bit cause they were crashing against the transom mount when pivoting. I sawed everything up on my table saw with a metal cutting blade. I got an eight foot long 2" wide 1/8" thick piece from Lowes and cut 4 pieces 8 inches long for the brackets, then bent them in the center with a vise and my hands (not bad for a redneck machine shop, eh?). I will drill holes in them and mount them with 1/4-20 stainless bolts (sorry bout the sideways pic):

    20230421_182008.jpg

    20230421_182032.jpg

    Here are the aka housings. They are not anchored yet, I still need to epoxy and glass them:

    20230426_215711.jpg

    20230426_215715.jpg

    And here you can see the deck doubling plywood, partner location, and step base plate. I drew a rectangle on the plywood just past the bulkhead. If you look just to the left of my measuring tape you can see it. That is where the mast partner will be. I am going to make another piece six inches wide, basically a mirror of the step base plate you can see, and anchor it under the deck between the bulkheads. That will give me freedom to make more partner holes and play with the mast positions until I get her helm balance dialed in. I am also thinking about slotting the foot of the mast, drill a hole lateral through it for a holding pin, then make a rail for it to sit on. The rail would have holes drilled through it, so I could move the mast fore and aft to adjust. I dunno, that may be more complicated that I need:

    20230426_215724.jpg
    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
    “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
    - General George Smith Patton

    Comment


    • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

      Float test on Wednesday this week!! Finally got the boat wet. I used my sons as crash test dummies, I dont do cold water. I am worried about it sitting too high, but I think once I put the amas, amas, me, passengers, mast, sail, rigging, boom, leeboard, rudder, and all the camping gear I might want, she should sit just right. I also installed the mast partners and step, and a breasthook. There was a very slow leak at the bottom of the bow. I couldn't find any holes or cracks, so I filled it full of epoxy and wood flour with an end pour.
      Feels like I am moving slow now cause of all the little details that have to be added to the hull. I still need to make the rudder blade, leeboard blade and case, attach the aka mounts and akas, and put the decking on, then the Vaka should be pretty much done.

      20230501_180630.jpg

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      Last edited by Lee.007; 05-05-2023, 10:49 AM.
      “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
      “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
      - General George Smith Patton

      Comment


      • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

        So I have the fore deck covered and some steering pedals. I got sent out of town for a mission and didn't get to do much the last two weeks. Hope to get some time to speed this up in the next few weeks.

        Here is the fore deck with the planking finished. I used several different species of cedar and some pine to make a cool multicolored design. I almost dont want to cut it to put hatches and lockers in it. The angle of the picture creates a foreshortening illusion. This section is actually 8 feet long. The two square holes are for the mast positions. The rear is with the Jib, the fore is without.
        20230517_181045.jpg


        Steering pedals and cabling system. I ran some amstel through some pex tubing and cut out some of the bulkhead to avoid chafing. The pulleys ease the chafing when the amsteel comes out of the pex. Works pretty good.
        20230522_193316.jpg
        “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
        “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
        - General George Smith Patton

        Comment


        • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

          Looking good, Lee. If you really want an unobtrusive hatch, magnets are the way to go. But be warned, there's some fussy work involved.

          Here's the one time I did it. You carefully cut out a piece of the deck, create and glue a backing rim in the boat, embedded with rare-earth magnets, and do the same on the underside of the cutout, which becomes the hatch. Think carefully about the spacing so that the hatch will lie flush. The magnets have to be bonded and glassed to keep them in place and prevent any water from getting at them. But when done, the only thing that really shows is the pull or handle you put on there.

          Great Auk 4.jpg
          Last edited by Woxbox; 05-25-2023, 09:20 PM.
          -Dave

          Comment


          • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

            Dave,

            That is a freaking amazing finish on that kayak!

            So, a few questions:

            1. Did you stain that wood? If you did, what kind of stain did you use to ensure the epoxy would stick to it? Or do you epoxy, and then stain over the epoxy? I am going to paint the SPF frame inside my hull with an acrylic paint cause I just don't like the look of the yellowish pine once it is epoxied. My daughter is an Interior Architectural Designer and she says that I need a deep teal green or teal blue color to compliment the cedar red-orange (some artsy fartsy thing about color wheels and such is how she arrived at that answer). According to the internet, you are supposed to use acrylic paint over epoxy. Would you agree or disagree with that?

            2. How did you make the lip on the underside? Just cut out some 1/4" plywood or something with the outside perimeter an inch or so larger than the hole in the kayak, with the inside perimeter an inch or so smaller that the hole in the kayak, and then just glue and glass it in with the magnets?

            3. It doesn't look like you have any water / weather sealing around the lip. Do you think I will need any seals given that the deck on my boat "should" be so high above the water line? I don't plan to go beyond protected lakes or inter-coastal bays with it.

            4. What kind of glue did you use to bond the magnets to the wood? Just drill a hole, set the magnet in it, epoxy it, then fiberglass over that?

            Thanks for the excellent Idea!! I did not want to ruin the clean look of the deck and was scratching my head about hinges and such that are very low profile, but nothing seemed to fit what I wanted it to look like.

            -Lee
            “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
            “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
            - General George Smith Patton

            Comment


            • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

              Originally posted by Lee.007
              Dave,

              That is a freaking amazing finish on that kayak!

              So, a few questions:

              1. Did you stain that wood? If you did, what kind of stain did you use to ensure the epoxy would stick to it? Or do you epoxy, and then stain over the epoxy? I am going to paint the SPF frame inside my hull with an acrylic paint cause I just don't like the look of the yellowish pine once it is epoxied. My daughter is an Interior Architectural Designer and she says that I need a deep teal green or teal blue color to compliment the cedar red-orange (some artsy fartsy thing about color wheels and such is how she arrived at that answer). According to the internet, you are supposed to use acrylic paint over epoxy. Would you agree or disagree with that?

              I used an alcohol based stain on the outside, nothing inside. Cheap paints work; quality boat paints are more durable. For cheaper, Rustoleum is one, Sherwin Williams porch and deck enamel is another. But Pettit Easypoxy is my favorite and tougher than the first two.

              2. How did you make the lip on the underside? Just cut out some 1/4" plywood or something with the outside perimeter an inch or so larger than the hole in the kayak, with the inside perimeter an inch or so smaller that the hole in the kayak, and then just glue and glass it in with the magnets?

              Right. The lip needs a spacer first to allow for the thickened hatch piece and then the lip. I built it up with thin layers of ply that would take the curve of the hull.

              3. It doesn't look like you have any water / weather sealing around the lip. Do you think I will need any seals given that the deck on my boat "should" be so high above the water line? I don't plan to go beyond protected lakes or inter-coastal bays with it.

              The underside of the lid has a rubber seal around the edge. A ring inside that holds the second set of magnets. It doesn't leak.

              4. What kind of glue did you use to bond the magnets to the wood? Just drill a hole, set the magnet in it, epoxy it, then fiberglass over that?

              Yep. All epoxy. BTW make sure the magnet orientation is correct all around!


              Thanks for the excellent Idea!! I did not want to ruin the clean look of the deck and was scratching my head about hinges and such that are very low profile, but nothing seemed to fit what I wanted it to look like.

              -Lee
              Lee, answers in the quote box.
              There are web blogs etc on this if you look around. I didn't invent anything here.
              -Dave

              Comment


              • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

                Thanks Dave!

                I need to do some research on those blogs then. I used some foam rubber weather stripping on my other boat / kayak and it does ok I guess, but it's not submersible. I need to figure out what works best. I dont want to be doubting anything on this boat.
                “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
                “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
                - General George Smith Patton

                Comment


                • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

                  Well guys, looks like I made my yearly blood sacrifice to Poseidon. I was ripping an angle on some stringers to make the gunwales wider last weekend. The table saw blade caught a knot that I didn't see, kicked back the wood, and my hand fell into the blade. I was lucky. I only lost about 3 mm from the tip of my index finger, but my middle finger had it worse. The blade cut through the finger nail and a little over half way through the bone on my middle finger. Other than throbbing like a toothache, I'm no worse for the wear. Doc says I was lucky and I might get to keep the portion of my finger nail that was not destroyed, but said we will see in a week.

                  But hey, these things happen. And when I can make my boat look like this, it's worth it:
                  20230528_212036.jpg

                  20230528_212016.jpg

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                  20230528_212002.jpg
                  “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
                  “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
                  - General George Smith Patton

                  Comment


                  • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

                    Here is a pic after I sanded her down and did some fairing today. Tomorrow I plan on fiberglassing and epoxying the fore deck, fantail, and the gunwales. In the pic you can see where I basically veneered the gunwales with thin wide strips of some nice dark cedar. I am excited to see what she looks like with epoxy on her.
                    signal-2023-06-02-17-15-26-286.jpg
                    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
                    “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
                    - General George Smith Patton

                    Comment


                    • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

                      So let me ask everybody a question:

                      Would sailors / boatmen / traditional boat builders call me a nerd if I crafted a cool nautical figurehead and put it the bow? Maybe even add a bowsprit to hang it under? Would I be breaking any social boat norms or rules? Cause I kind of like the idea and I think it may pair well with the traditional look of the cedar.

                      What say you???
                      “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
                      “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
                      - General George Smith Patton

                      Comment


                      • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

                        Well, in the Army we say silence is compliance. So i might have to find me a cool mermaid figure head somewhere!

                        Ive done quite a bit lately. I got rid of the flimsy cedar strips I was going to use for a dash. I replaced with a 1/2" thick cedar board instead. I also built the leeboard case / mount and fiberglassed it. I got the forward Aka epoxied to the front deck, and I am gonna toot my own horn and say i have it perfectly centered and perpindicular to the center line of the boat. I got lucky I guess. I measured from my centerline pin i put in the bow to each end of the aka, both measurements were 7' 8 5/8" exactly. Nailed it. I am pretty pleased with that cause with my simple tools and measuring devices, i didnt think I was going to be able to hold any tolerances even close to that.

                        I am still trying to decide if I want to paint the Akas or leave them bright. I kind of dont like the yellowish pine look. But I think if I paint them it will look out of tune with the rest of the traditional rustic look of the boat. What do y'all think???

                        Here are some pics:

                        Should I paint this, or leave it bright?
                        20230608_190411.jpg
                        Leeboard case
                        20230608_190427.jpg

                        Rear dashboard with cup holders.
                        20230608_190109.jpg
                        “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
                        “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
                        - General George Smith Patton

                        Comment


                        • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

                          I see no one is answering your questions about how you finish your boat - 'bright' woodwork or paint or a bit of both. I guess the reason that people are keeping quiet is that its your boat and your build so the aesthetics are your personnel choice.

                          My own choice for the plywood rowing boat that was my most recent boat building project was paint over the epoxy everywhere except for a bright finish on the small stip of veneer overlay that runs round the edge of the cockpit. I think the paint finish on most of the visible surface actually draws the eye to better appreciate the bright finished veneer trim. You obviously have a different view!

                          There are differing views on whether to pay the extra money for modern marine paints or to use cheaper household paints. Over the years I have moved progressively towards the latter and for painting over epoxy coated wood I would now use epoxy filler if needed then 2 part epoxy primer, which can be the high build variety if there is still any glass weave pattern to fill, then two pack polyurethane top coat, satin finish inside, gloss outside. And uv. inhibited two part epoxy varnish on any small area of brightwork. Same paints as I have used on foam and epoxy boat work. These days I feel that the cost of the two pack coatings is worthwhile, I guess I value my time more relative to cost than I used to do. I recently freshened up the bright woodwork on the sailing dinghy I built and first launched in 1978. Mirka sanders with vacuum worked well (I expect other makes of sander are also good) then I applied the expensive 2 part gloss varnish over what was left of the original conventional varnish, that is not right 'by the book' but I am pleased with the result, so far anyway. .

                          Comment


                          • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

                            Thanks for the advice John! I was just planning on a 3rd coat of epoxy for the bright work, then fine sanding followed by a final coat of spar varnish for the bright work (practically the whole boat).

                            But you bring up a good idea. I accidentally bought satin finish varnish for the mast I made for my CLC Sailrig. I have a lot of it left and I could use it as a first coat for the varnish.

                            I still havent made up my mind on whether or not to paint the Aka's. If i decide to paint them, once I pull that trigger its gonna be really hard to put that bullet back in the gun.

                            I did paint the stringers and keelson on the inside with a blue outdoor acrylic over the epoxy to match the seats. Turned out pretty nice I thought. Complements the cedar pretty well. Ill post pictures when i get back in town. Thats the color I would paint the Akas, but the Akas are pretty big and I dont want them to seem like they are the focal point of the whole thing. I might change my mind when i get the Ama's built. I think the size of the Amas may drown out the size of the Akas, so it wont seem like its such a huge piece of blue lumber on the boat.
                            “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
                            “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
                            - General George Smith Patton

                            Comment


                            • Re: Lee wants a new trimaran design...

                              Ok, so I gave up on the magnet idea. I ordered some magnets for the hatch, but it is pretty big and they would not hold it tight enough against my rubber seal I bought. So I ordered some latches instead. They are low profile so they wont snag any lines. I would rather have a clean deck, but I figured there will be shroud anchors / chainplates, forestay attachment, cleats, and other stuff so it aint gonna be clean anyway.

                              I think one last finish coat of epoxy on everything and the Vaka is complete. Time to start on the swing Akas, the Amas, and I need to order my sail materials from sailrite. I talked with Jeff, their designer, and he said he could make a better sail than the hobie but stay within my design parameters so I told him to please do so. I am going to use slugs instead of the bolt rope so I can reef it easily on strong winds instead of fighting a bolt rope sticking in a track. Jeff said he could put that in as well as the reef points, which the Hobie doesnt have.

                              Here is a pic of my hatch setup and how the whole Vaka looks now. Just noticed after posting indont have a pic of the front hatch, but its configured the same as the rear. Ill post more pics when i get the hinges and latches installed.:

                              20230619_190952.jpg

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                              Last edited by Lee.007; 06-20-2023, 01:38 PM.
                              “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
                              “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
                              - General George Smith Patton

                              Comment


                              • 20230702_201110.jpg
                                Well, looks like the forum upgrade lost my last few posts. Oh well, easy come easy go.

                                Anyway, I've got the stringers glued to the frame bulkheads for the Amas. I had hoped to start stripping it yesterday, but it was 95 deg and 70% humidity in the garage yesterday so I had to take lots of breaks. Here are the pics of the frames, and the pics that the upgrade lost. I made some stems for the Amas out of 5/8" half round moulding. I cut a groove in them so the flimsy 5mm luan plywood would be held straight:
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                                “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking.”
                                “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
                                - General George Smith Patton

                                Comment

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