Double Ender(Oughtred Eflyn) Rudder hardware

[NCFaering]

Re: Double Ender(Oughtred Eflyn) Rudder hardware

[QUOTE=Edward Pearson;6863424

I wouldn't pay more for something that worked worse than a standard lifting rudder. I'd make one of those, to an Oughtred shape, with pintles in-line/ same plane. Make it so when it's up, the blade is immersed to just above the line to the bottom of the keel horizontal line so you still have steerage but not scraping until the boat touches. Just buy two stainless dinghy rudder fittings for £40 or so. Not bronze but not £3-400 either, on what is otherwise a realtively 'cheap' but beautifull and good boat.
[/QUOTE]

I definitely like the idea of a lifting rudder. Unfortunately, I have already cut the rudder shape out of the wood, though it may be worth the modification.While at the local woodstore, I happened upon a single piece of mahogany for the rudder that was cheaper than the plywood I was looking at. Do you think that this rudder would be able to be turned into a lifting rudder, with cutting and modification? If it can't be modified, I will probably install it as is, with rudder fittings modified due to pintles not being in alignment.
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[Edward Pearson]

Re: Double Ender(Oughtred Eflyn) Rudder hardware

I’d measure how deep below the waterline the rudder extends to. Its not very deep as drawn. If it’s below knee height, i’d maybe just install it as a permanently down rudder and get the fittings for it to work, and just walk the boat out to depth and go sailing. If the beaches are fairly steep then its not much of a problem. It pays to stay in the middle on an elf to avoid excessively immersing the aft skeg area, so that it turns still. Basically move tour weight forward to lift the stern up so there is less lateral resistance to turning.

If the rudder bottom might take a bit of a scrape, add some glass in epoxy around the botto. Kevlar is very abrasion resistent and actually looks ok next to varnished wood.

[NickN]

Re: Double Ender(Oughtred Eflyn) Rudder hardware

You might consider whether it is worth worrying about a lifting rudder at all. If you're in central NC and learning how to sail, you'll likely be on a lake. The rudder will not stop you from nosing her up on shore. If you truly want to put the boat completely ashore, it should not be a big deal to unship the rudder and put it in the boat. Even then, because there is a keel and some deadrise, she'll lay to one side, so maybe just putting the tiller hard over to the low side will get the rudder clear of the ground. Perhaps, too, you could just reshape the rudder so it does not extend so far below the keel. As to rowing, just unship the tiller and let it drag along behind. I don't think you'll notice it much. Take it off entirely if you plan to row only.

[Andrew2]

Re: Double Ender(Oughtred Eflyn) Rudder hardware

. As to rowing, just unship the tiller and let it drag along behind. I don't think you'll notice it much. Take it off entirely if you plan to row only.

Curiously, thzt doesn't work with mine. If rowing, I have to put the 'tamer' on it to stay centered. Otherwise it swing full over one side or the other and makes rowing impossible.
On the pic in #10, he did make a swing up blade rudder, hence the pintles.

[NickN]

Re: Double Ender(Oughtred Eflyn) Rudder hardware

Curiously, thzt doesn't work with mine. If rowing, I have to put the 'tamer' on it to stay centered. Otherwise it swing full over one side or the other and makes rowing impossible.
On the pic in #10, he did make a swing up blade rudder, hence the pintles.

Could be the weight of the tiller. That would happen on my double ended dory unless I removed the tiller. Maybe not such an easy solution depending on how the tiller is fitted. Without the tiller the rudder trailed behind just fine.

[Andrew2]

Re: Double Ender(Oughtred Eflyn) Rudder hardware

Could be the weight of the tiller. That would happen on my double ended dory unless I removed the tiller. Maybe not such an easy solution depending on how the tiller is fitted. Without the tiller the rudder trailed behind just fine.

Interesting thought. Will try it next time out.

[Zane Lewis]

Re: Double Ender(Oughtred Eflyn) Rudder hardware

$400 wont buy a lot of time in terms of custom fabrication in an engineering shop, after labour, brazing rod of the right chemistry, gas and consumables, plus the raw materials cost.
i know it does not look like much but custom work is not cheap, you have a constant radius bend to put in plus the straps and eyes to fit over the rod.
Different if you were just going to fit basic top and bottom pintels which you could buy of the shelf but fitting the rudder onto the bottom pintel every time would be a pain in the A.
Z

[Peerie Maa]

Re: Double Ender(Oughtred Eflyn) Rudder hardware

$400 wont buy a lot of time in terms of custom fabrication in an engineering shop, after labour, brazing rod of the right chemistry, gas and consumables, plus the raw materials cost.
i know it does not look like much but custom work is not cheap, you have a constant radius bend to put in plus the straps and eyes to fit over the rod.
Different if you were just going to fit basic top and bottom pintels which you could buy of the shelf but fitting the rudder onto the bottom pintel every time would be a pain in the A.
Z

Fabricate the bits yourself after seeking quotes for doing the brazing.
That is how I replaced the broken upper pintle on Peerie Maa.
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