Selway Fisher Clyde 18

[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

I was out working on the boat today and drilled 4 holes for the samson post. Slight issue is that they are quite close to the inboard edge of the backing pad/ spine framework. The holes on the baseplate (and what I have drilled) are 120mm athwartships, and 200mm would give me a more even spread. I've had a look at chandlers online on can't see any other posts with as wide a base as I need. Deck cleats seem to be fitted to run fore and aft, which doesn't really help me. Is there any other fittings which might do this?

I could try a stainless fabricator and ask them to remove the plate that is on the post I have and weld a larger plate onto it. I'm not overly concerned about the holes I have- I can fill those and they'll be under the plate, which I might epoxy to the deck.

[neil.henderson]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

Would it be possible to see a couple of photos of the deck & samson post? My samson post is simply a square length of wood that reaches down through the deck & king plank to the keel, and has a hole drilled through the section above deck with a stainless steel rod through it (epoxied in). Works just fine. I'm unsure about the plate you refer to in your note above as mine has no plate...................................

Regards Neil

[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

Here's a photo of what I have...

I'd struggle to get the setup you have fitted- my boat has the space in front of the forward bulkhead separated by part of the spine that runs along the centreline. I have framing at the top of the spine, where it meets the deck, and if I'm going to use a bolt through fitting, it need to span over this.

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[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

Here's a photo of the deck- was messing around trying out a cleat. 20230507_102019.jpg

[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

Perhaps getting a sheet of 3mm 150x200 stainless, using the holes on the bollard to bolt the two together and then bury these holes in the deck and bolt the bigger sheet through the backing pad.

While I work this one out, I got on with a job I could do. John- you were right with the washers- hopeless. Just squashed out between the perspex and the head. Back to a bit of arbo. I got in a rhythm and it worked out OK.

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[John Meachen]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

Can you access both sides of the spine?If so,I'd just add a large enough backing pad on each side.The other point of concern would be the deck camber and getting that large base plate to seat securely on top of the deck.You may need to add a backing pad that fits the curvature of the deck and which has a flat top.

[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

I think the deck is pretty flat, but I'll check. I can make a pad to fit any change of shape that is needed.

I do have access to both sides via round hatches on the bulkhead. I've put a backing pad on each side, but these holes are pretty close to the edge- which led to my thought of fitting it to a larger piece which I can bolt through the backing pad with a good area all around the fixings.

[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

I finished putting the rest of the perspex in the wheelhouse this morning.

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[gray duck]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

Clean and strong lines.

[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

Thanks, gray duck. Hopefully it's watertight!

Been trying various ways of getting round the samson post problem. I think I'm going to bolt the samson post to a piece of 3mm stainless plate c 220mm x 150mm. I'll then be able to cut a piece of timber (Douglas Fir is what I have left) c270mm x 200mm and bury the bolts in this timber. I can then through bolt the new plate and timber through the top of the deck.

[neil.henderson]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

Thanks, gray duck. Hopefully it's watertight!

Been trying various ways of getting round the samson post problem. I think I'm going to bolt the samson post to a piece of 3mm stainless plate c 220mm x 150mm. I'll then be able to cut a piece of timber (Douglas Fir is what I have left) c270mm x 200mm and bury the bolts in this timber. I can then through bolt the new plate and timber through the top of the deck.

Yes, that should work fine. Like the windows too, neat tidy work:-)

Regards Neil

[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

Thanks Neil- will crack on!

[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

I've got a little assembly made to get the fixing bolts for the samson post outboard a bit.

I'm thinking to epoxy the stainless plate to the top of the oak piece and then epoxy the bottom of the oak to the deck (after taking the paint off). I have 4 M8 bolts coming as part of a fixings order to go through the outside holes in the stainless plate, oak block, deck and backing pad.

I'll epoxy the underside of the bollard base plate to the top of the stainless plate (if necessary?). I have smaller M8 bolts coming - the ones in the photo are just so I could drill the holes and get it all lined up. I'll drill out 4 recesses in the top of the timber to sink the bolt heads into and epoxy them in place. Doing it this way means the nuts will be proud, but thinking I could get plastic covers to stop any chafe. If I ever need to change the bollard, I can undo the nuts from the top. If I put the bolt heads at the top, I think it'll be much harder to do.

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[gray duck]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

I don't think I've ever seen them but what about carriage bolts from above? This must be a common issue with that base...

[biglad]

Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

I've got 100mm bolts to go through the larger stainless plate and the timber that's on top of the deck, and these will have washers and nuts fitted from under the deck.

I plan to epoxy all the fittings in- removal isn't too hard with a solder iron, and one day I might need to get the mooring bollard off. My thinking was that if I epoxy the bolt heads into the timber below and have the washers and nuts above, then I'll be able to undo the nuts and change it.

Carriage bolts would look a bit tidier on the outside fixings