Restoration of a Twister

[Larks]

Hans, I use a range of different drills and tek guns for screws in the building game and probably wouldn't have a screwdrive if not for needing them for mechanical work and the boat work. On the boat I find them OK for removing some of the bigger screws and the ones that would come out easily enough but find they do strip heads and shear screws pretty easily. Some of my tools probably have just too much torque for the job and I found that I snapped off too many screws that just got too hot so I went back to the handraulic approach for the harder ones.

I've also found that they are pretty dastardly for installing new stainless screws unless you are particularly careful, they strip the heads pretty easily and again the stainless screws just can't seem to handle the heat from the friction of too much torque (for want of a better way of describing it) depending on the timber and any pre drilling that you might have done.

[hansp77]

Larks,
when I bought this impact driver, I honestly thought it was going to have a bit more torque. It is listed as having 165nm. Whatever that number means() it has enough for most of my needs, but starts 'impacting' a lot earlier than I was suspecting it would. Whatever the case, torque-wise I suppose mine is a pretty weak one. I can't conceive of any screw that I could not easily remove by hand that this thing would shear or strip- yet at the same time it will easily drive or un-drive with no damage to screw or bit, a screw into/out of something that my regular drivers (electric and hand) will likely fail at (by shearing, stripping the head, damaging the bit, etc).

I know what you mean about stainless steel- Using normal powered drivers, cordless and corded, I damaged many a big and expensive stainless screw on my deck rebuild (screwing down the toe-rails and then the bronze runners on top of that)- an expensive and annoying process.

[RFNK]

Obviously they saw you coming (or more likely, heard you) & got out the apples they put aside for tourists. AUSSIE tourists.

And they wonder why we don't want their apples sent over here! Imagine which apples they'd ship us if we did !

Well, I tried the tip with the problematic screws but it's not working in this case. The problem is that the heads of the old bronze screws are too soft around the slot. I scrape the slot out etc., hammer the driver in etc. but, while it works most of the time, about every 5th screw or so just ends in tragedy. I think I've tried every method - just not the one that works yet! But, as I will be doing a heap of fastening etc. anyway, I'm going to try Hans' method too - Hans, could you post the model number etc. on your driver please?

Spent yesterday helping a friend with an old Alan Payne Sydney to Hobart boat (Serenade) and we're taking our Folkboat out for a spin today so the current task of removing paint from the starboard side to inspect all planking will have to wait until tomorrow. Rick

[hansp77]

Hi Rick,
here is a link to the AEG impact driver I bought.
http://www.vektools.com.au/lithium-c...er-p-7243.html
This is exactly the same tool I got, but a different colour (ie, the link is of the new orange range instead of the old blue range I got)
I got mine at close to 50% discount (approx $200 off IIRC) from Total Tools (preston store)- there are a number of tool retailers who have been doing big discounts on the old colour AEG range. The preston store had a good pile of them still, last I was there- so if you wanted to contact a local Total Tools to see if they had them, they might be able to get one sent up- or just buy directly from the Preston store (if they still have them).
(another option, if total tools still has them, then you can always try to convince bunnings to match the price on the new orange range- a couple of weeks ago my local Bunnings was matching the price for the new Orange coloured AEG belt-sander to the price of the discounted old blue belt sander that JustTools had on sale- I had already bought the blue tool)
Of course just about all the tool brands, cheap to expensive, are now doing versions of these compact Li-Ion impact drivers. Any of the decent brands are no doubt as good as eachother IMHO. Even a cheaper Ozito version or something might just as well do the job (but even the Ozito isn't all that much cheaper than the discounted AEG price).
It is not a cheap tool, but it is a very useful one IME (if say for some reason it too did not solve your problem). I only use my bosch cordless drivers now for drilling- once you get used to it, I find the impact driver is simply superior for driving and undriving screws (if a little noiser and sometimes slower- when it has to do a lot of impacting). The saving in bits that I will not ruin alone will start to add up soon

Of course (sorry for stating the obvious) as you are having particular problems with the slotted heads of your screws, whatever solution you go for will no doubt rely on having a perfectly fitted flat head bit/screwdriver. If you can't find one off the shelf that fits perfectly then I would be carefully grinding one up to match. I hate trying to remove old seized flat head screws- all the big thick long ones I have mentioned on my toe-rails were such- I got a few out, the rest I had to cut through horizontally through the deck (that luckily was getting removed). Nightmare.


EDIT- here is an ebay auction of the exact one I have http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AEG-BSS18LI-1...d=p3286.c0.m14
Starting off at a bit more than I paid- I think I paid $230-40 (can't check as I put the receipt through the washing machine in my shirt pocket)

[Larks]

Rick, what will you do with the busted ones? What's the concensus on leaving them there?

[Candyfloss]

Busted-off bronze screws? Leave them there? No problem. Except that according to Murphy's Law they will be exactly where you want to put the new ones.

[RFNK]

Greg
I always try to get them out. Usually I drill the head off so that joint can come apart then I remove the remains of the old screw with Vise-grips. I don't like leaving them in as they play havoc with routers etc.

Thanks Hans for info re the AEG - I'll see how I go. Rick

[cookie]

Hi Rick,

Nice project you have there, I can see why you like them folkboats.

re the screws, maybe this helps.

Tom

http://www.xs4all.nl/~steeft/inhoud/w660.htm

[RFNK]

Thanks Tom
In the end, I think this is the only method that will work for the most stubborn screws, and it's fine as long as the part being removed is wide enough so that the replacement plugs are practical and still look okay. Rick

[Candyfloss]

Sorry Rick, you've lost me. I thought you were removing the planking. Which means taking the broken-off screws out of the frames, & stem & transom, presumably. So why do you need a router? And who will ever see them?

[RFNK]

Graeme
The sheer plank is screwed to a packing plank between the clamp and the plank. The rest of the planking is fastened with copper nails/roves except for the ends etc. In talking about removal of screws, I'm talking more generally - removal of fittings, bilge stringers, coaming etc. etc. The plugs and graving I'll have to use on the hull will be to repair damage around fastenings, replace planking where skin fittings have been, etc. etc. There are a lot of fastenings with worm damage around them so I was looking for a neat way of making plugs to repair that damage. Your chamfered plugs and way of producing them seems really smart to me - so that's what I'll do. For the larger patches, I'll make up a jig to make graving patches of a more traditional diamond shape - using the router etc. Rick

[Candyfloss]

Thanks Rick. I"ll try to keep up.

[RFNK]

Here's a picture of the Alan Payne Serenade our friend has here at Lemon Tree - we had both boats out yesterday so there's also a picture taken from Pipsqueak. It was a beautiful winter's day but not much wind.



Serenade is 35', planked with WRC with bronze floors and unglued, laminated and steamed frames. A very light, very fast boat built in the 1950s. Her sister, Nocturne, took line honours in the 1952 Sydney to Hobart race in light conditions.




Rick

[Candyfloss]

She's beautiful Rick. Golly I can't remember the last time they had a light-weather S to H. Or one that was won by such a tiny boat!

[RFNK]

There's been a bit of progress this last week in between sailing and a few other distractions. The Twister has had just about all topsides paint removed from the starboard side and quite a bit below the waterline. I use a heatgun and thin bladed scraper for this - my favourite way to remove paint, and then I sand with a sander/polisher (a sort of slow angle-grinder). This was all in aid of finding suspect planking. The starboard side is the bad side but it seems that the rot is confined to the sheer plank where it meets the deck and several planks in the starboard quarter. The rest of the topsides look pretty good and I'm hoping that the port side only has a little bit of rot where it meets the transom. I've cut out the rotten planks in the starboard quarter topsides - in the photo below you can see the sheer plank is gone, the second plank is rotten too but the third plank is good. The two planks below this one are rotten and then it's all okay. Although I've cut the splines I won't actually remove the planks until I've installed the new frames. Some of the lower planks will also need to be replaced where they can't be patched up properly but this is due mainly to worm damage and poorly installed skin fittings. I'm worried about the stern around the propellor shaft still so I'll try to clear some of that out over the next week or so.



Today I removed all of the starboard sheer plank. This was a big job as it was fastened from both sides. There's a board between the sheer plank and the clamp/beam shelf and the plank was fastened with screws running through to the clamp and screws running from the clamp into the plank as well. The uppers go through the clamp, backing board and into the plank while the lowers go through the clamp and the frames and into the plank. Removing these was pretty laborious but made much easier by the tips from Hans and Gezzunder. I bought a new AEG cordless hammer drill (not the same model as Hans' but also on special!) and the hammer driver technique for removing the old bronze screws worked really well. I also tightened every screw before undoing, following Gezzunder's tip, and this made a huge difference. Thanks!!

Later this week we have to antifoul Pipsqueak so the Twister won't get too much attention this week!

We went sailing yesterday but didn't take Woody, the smallest crew member, as we had another guest aboard, so he was pretty put out. But, to top off a perfectly lousy day for him, as soon as we got home SWMBO hit him with the dreaded BATH. This is what one really p***** off dog looks like.



I'll post a picture of the structure behind the sheer plank next time. Rick

[hansp77]

Gday Rick,
good to see the progress.
Just for interest- the tool you bought, do you actually mean a cordless hammer/drill driver (ie, with a keyless chuck, hammer and non-hammer settings, and likely a clutch), or the one I was talking about being a impact driver (minimal settings if any) ? Both quite different tools and actions...
Of course if it is working for you, then it does not really matter- so that is where the 'just for interest' part comes in
If you are using an impact driver, then I can fully picture how it would be working... basically the tool tries to spin the bit in the direction you want it to, and then once it reaches a certain level of torque begins to 'impact' the bit counterclockwise a few times a second...
If you are using a hammer/drill driver, with the hammer setting as you seem to describe, then it gets a little more interesting... it would be hammering down through the screw as it is also turning it counterclockwise. I would assume that you would also be using the clutch when doing this- which when properly tuned to the job at hand doesn't work all that differently to a impact driver... Interesting solution if that is the case,
anyway,
thanks for the update,
Hans.

[Gezzunder]

Gday Rick,
good to see the progress.
Just for interest- the tool you bought, do you actually mean a cordless hammer/drill driver (ie, with a keyless chuck, hammer and non-hammer settings, and likely a clutch), or the one I was talking about being a impact driver (minimal settings if any) ? Both quite different tools and actions...
Of course if it is working for you, then it does not really matter- so that is where the 'just for interest' part comes in
If you are using an impact driver, then I can fully picture how it would be working... basically the tool tries to spin the bit in the direction you want it to, and then once it reaches a certain level of torque begins to 'impact' the bit counterclockwise a few times a second...
If you are using a hammer/drill driver, with the hammer setting as you seem to describe, then it gets a little more interesting... it would be hammering down through the screw as it is also turning it counterclockwise. I would assume that you would also be using the clutch when doing this- which when properly tuned to the job at hand doesn't work all that differently to a impact driver... Interesting solution if that is the case,
anyway,
thanks for the update,
Hans.

I think we call them "rattle guns" over here, often used by pit crews to assist removing wheel nuts

[Larks]

I think they may be a bit different to a rattle gun. Hans, I've assumed that by an impact driver you mean the same as a Tek Gun, you need to put some pressure on the screw to engage the clutch. You can essentially adjust the torque setting and when using them for driving in tek screws they torque up and start impacting when the torque reaches that setting.

[RFNK]

Yes, what I'm using is a cordless drill with a hammer drill setting rather than an impact driver. I think it's working because the hammer actually hammers the driver into the slot a bit so you get better contact as it turns. I didn't really think this would work - i thought it would just destroy the old screw heads but it seems to work really well as long as you put a bit of pressure on.

Last night we had a few big gusts from the west and one tore the cover off the shelter, so today I had to take the cover to the canvas repair guy for some reinforcing. Rick

[hansp77]

Larks and Gezzunder,
not a rattle gun and not a tek gun, though sorta similar but different to both
this is a 'impact driver'- which from what I can tell is what they are called the world over.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KawwrzAXIqI

an excellent little tool for driving and undriving screws- saves your bits from destroying themselves just as much as it saves your screws from being destroyed and or sheared. On anything but the finest work (small thin screws, soft timber) I get a much easier achieved perfect result than a normal corded or cordless drivers.
It has a very fast rpm until it reaches a certain level of torque when it begins impacting- this is particularly great for anything self tapping, metal or timber.

Anyway, enough about that- the real story seems to be Rick and his hammer un-screwing technique
Sounds great, keep up the good work.

[Candyfloss]

Or Rick do you mean just an ordinary battery drill with the torque selection set at a low level?

[RFNK]

Or Rick do you mean just an ordinary battery drill with the torque selection set at a low level?

It is really an ordinary battery drill but it has a `hammer' setting which is hammer and maximum torque rather than less torque. I'm sure Hans' tool would be better but the drill works well. The down side is that if it does jump out of the slot it damages the screw head quite a bit - it sounds like Hans' driver doesn't do that.

I think I'm pretty well set up for removing old bronze screws now. This is what I do: I clean out the bung/putty/paint etc. with a small screwdriver to expose the screw and slot. I then use a screwdriver bit in a `brace 'n bit' and slightly tighten the screw to break its grip. I then unwind it with the brace and bit. If the screw head slot is too shallow, damaged etc. then I scrape out the slot a bit more with a hammer and smaller screwdriver and use the hammer drill to remove the screw. If all this fails then I expose the screw head with a chisel and remove the screw with vise-grips.

I've got a lot of boatbuilding and house renovating ahead of me so I'm going to get Hans' recommended driver one day. That and a splining saw blade are all I really need now I think.

I've pretty much decided to sheath the hull. Too much of the planking is good to justify re-planking but there's a lot of surface damage below the waterline so it's going to be patchy. I'll use the very strong glass and wrap it right around the hull after removing the ballast. I'll create epoxy collars for the keel bolts prior to glassing. This approach will provide a lot of extra strength to the hull as long as it's done properly. There are a couple of sections of the hull where the wood seems a bit dark so I suspect there could be oil/diesel in that timber. I'll epoxy a patch of glass on those sections one day just to test the adhesion after I see if it can be `dried out' with the heat gun. I'm replacing most of the frames with laminated frames - I'm still not sure whether to refasten with screws or nails and roves. Opinion seems to be divided on this question. The big advantage of the screws is that I can do this job alone. If i was using sawn frames, there'd be no question, I'd be using screws. But with the laminated frames, it's more debatable. Any advice on the advantages and disadvantages of screws vs nails would be appreciated.

It's really windy today so it's likely I'll go for a sail at some time but I also plan to do some shoring up of the cabin and deck as so much structure has been removed now and then I'll get on with exposing and cutting through splines where planking needs to be removed. Still on the starboard side! Rick

[Gezzunder]

Just went and bought one of these 'impact drivers'. Seeing as how I already had the Ryobi +1 series of saws, drill/drivers, routers etc I bought their matching impact driver.

It is a little beauty! There's no downward impact, just a continual rat-a-tat-tat when torquing the screw. Kind of like when you've got a seized nut and bolt and you tap the spanner/wrench to ease it off. The longer you hold the impact driver, the higher the torque on the screw.

The Ryobi only seems to handle up to m8, the Makita looks to go a bit bigger - but costs just a lot more.

And I thought my cordless trimming router was going to be my favourite tool!

[floatingkiwi]

Hey Rick. You sound like you have it licked but my two pence worth. The screws holding the floors in place in the folkboat were decomposed to various degrees and I found that armed with some good HSS bits I just hollowed them out and if the remaining outer didn't spin out at the same time, a pair of 2 to 1 pliers plucked them out like ripping molars from a sperm whale.
Cheers mate.

[JimJ]

rat-a-tat-tat when torquing the screw

The blokes who did our kitchen renovation had those. Don't know what brand but they were not cheap.

[hansp77]

Just went and bought one of these 'impact drivers'
…
And I thought my cordless trimming router was going to be my favourite tool!

LOL, they're a good little tool eh?
How many volts is your Ryobi? Li-ion or Nicad?
My AEG is the 18v Li-ion, like the makita in the youtube vid I linked, and packs a fair bit of power (though for really big long screws into hardwood, I wouldn't mind another one with a bit more punch).
Before I had owned and used the tool a lot- I would have found it hard to justify buying one at full price, but from approaching $500 RRP down to just over $200 I got it for, it seemed a good buy- and it was! I love it.

Sorry for the thread drift Rick
(p.s. is your aeg the 18v Li-ion cordless hammer/driver drill? If it is- If you are thinking of getting an impact driver as well, then if I was you I would seriously consider trying to track down one of the same ones as I got before they dissapear- so you get the benefit of interchangable batteries/chargers- the new orange range would work fine for that as well, but around twice the price-
Preston total tools, had a big stack of them? otherwise no doubt there will continue to be a few 'new' blue ones on ebay for a while)

[RFNK]

Hans, I've done just that. New Lambton Electric Motors are getting the driver you bought in for me for just over $200 so I'm pretty happy about that! As you say, I'll be able to use the Li-on wotzit batteries with the drill as well, and vice versa, of course. The chuch on the AEG drill is just amazing - so grippy and easy to use!

No work on the Twister today - Pipsqueak's coming out for antifouling so that's the task for the next couple of days. I'll raise the boot top while I'm at it. Rick

[hansp77]

sounds great Rick,
I am pretty sure you will be happy with the tool. Having 4 batteries and two chargers should be very handy as well. These batteries don't seem to give up many warning signs before they simply STOP- which is nice because they keep punching at nearly full strength until the last, but then they can suprise you and leave you with no batteries...
How much did you pay for the hammer/cordless if you don't mind my asking? Where from? Is it the blue or the orange range? I haven't seen them down here on sale (Bunnies had them a while ago but I missed out), and it is coming time for me to replace my much abused 14.4v blue bosch one that is on its last legs. I've been really happy with all the blue AEG stuff I have bought- I am sure the one you have is great too- and would like to take advantage of having both the tools sharing batterys and chargers...

now, back to boat stuff,
that raising of the boot top- I need to know about that.
My boat Altair, before our ownership, lived its live in a sheltered marina berth- it had no bootstripe as such...
I just copied the old waterline for the antifoul. Now that she is out in the comparitive open on a swing mooring, with the extra waves and wind I am getting and constantly battling scuzzy algae and growth line above the old waterline onto the topsides... So, do I just raise the antifoul waterline accordingly next time I repaint? I use ablative coppercoat and was sort of worried how well this stuff stands up with constant wetting and drying (from the evidence on my boat it seems to crack a little on the waterline).
We are long overdue for a haulout and I have to solve this one next time (when it warms up a little).

[RFNK]

Hans
The hammer drill I bought was also on special and, like the driver, is the older, blue range. It was $245 - normally quite a lot more, and I got it from New Lambton Electric Motors in Newcastle. I'm getting the driver from them so if you can't find the drill anywhere else, let me know and I can pick one up from them if they have any left.

The local boatyard `Cove Marine' sells antifoul called Altex and everyone around here seems to use it. There don't seem to be too many problems with the bit of antifoul that is in and out of the water cracking up. It seems that you really need to have antifoul well above the waterline to avoid those ugly bits of algae building up and I think the boot top looks good. The only trick to painting the boot top that I know of is that it shouldn't be quite level. If it's level it looks like it's sloping down a bit at the front and back so it's better to paint it with a slight downward curve (slightly raised at each end) and then it looks just right. Rick

[RFNK]

Dramas with Pipsqueak (Folkboat) today . We took her out just to quickly antifoul and raise the boot top a bit and found a patch of rot by a starboard chainplate fastening. The boat is supposed to go back in on Saturday to make way for another boat being slipped but we really need to chase the rot right out so it's all high drama at the slipway at the moment. Finding good quality ply in a hurry is a bit of a problem here in the back of nowhere! Anyway, hopefully tomorrow I'll find some and then we can see how quickly we can get it all watertight and protected.

On a slightly better note, a lovely old wooden trawler was slipped beside us today. Planked in flooded gum, built in the early 60s and with owners who really like the old wooden boats. They plan to burn off all the old hull paint tomorrow but I'll see if I can climb aboard and snap a few shots. Rick

[Candyfloss]

I was told that the boot top for a 30-35ft boat should be an inch wider at the bow & 1/2 an inch wider at the stern than in the middle. How you achieve that I have no idea. In fact I gave up trying to draw a waterline on my dinghy.
Sorry to hear about your problem with the Folkboat. Best of luck with that.
Make sure that boat next to you doesn't set fire to Pipsqueak too!

[hansp77]

Best of luck with Pipsqueak Rick,
suprise rot is not a nice thing

Regarding the tool,
I've been looking around at a couple of shops locally and the price you got seems like a really good one. Do you by any chance have the model code for it, just to make sure it is the one I am thinking of? There seems to be a lot of slight differences...
Is it the 18volt, lithium-ion batteries one?
What I would consider doing is seeing if the place you got it from would just post it down if I pay over the phone with a CC, as it is still a long way cheaper than what I can get down here.
No great drama's,
I'll be heading down to Wye River for a week on sunday() so will probably have to figure it out when I get back.

[RFNK]

Hans
The driver I've ordered has Li-Ion batteries but the drill I bought has Ni-Cad batteries.

Graeme
It's easy to raise the boot top at the ends. If you mark the line with a batten you just raise it the required amount (i.e., a little bit) at the ends and mark the line accordingly. If you use a laser level, just put a batten at the height you want at the ends and fair the line in to the level line - easy.

With the dinghy, I'd cheat and just put it in the water with a bit of sawdust on a calm day. Then mark the line with a pencil, then fair in the slightly higher ends with a batten.

Pipsqueak's all repaired now - photos later. We replaced about 900mm of planking in two planks due to old damage from leaky chainplates (to do with the old teak on ply disaster ) and we also found and filled an old worm hole. She'll go back in the water tomorrow night at high tide. It was raining burning paint from the trawler next to us yesterday but they're good guys and it's been interesting to hear about the history of their boat. Photos of that later too! Rick

[Gezzunder]

Thinking about the laser...

When marking your waterline with a laser, you should be able to tilt it upwards 1 or 2 degrees so the center is on your waterline, the ends will be higher. Beauty of a laser is you should then be able to step back and check the look.

I haven't done this yet, but it makes sense

[RFNK]

Folkboat repairs, visitors and the need to sail! got in the way of Twister work over the last 10 days or so, so not much progress.

Here's a picture of Pipsqueak all patched up and one with her new friend, the Bodalla Star (which one would you rather go to sea in?):






This is a couple of shots showing the arrangement behind the sheer plank of the Twister. The frames rise to a backing board which fits between the sheer clamp and the sheer plank right along. The oregon sheer clamp and the oregon backing are both in good condition except for one short section of rot in the backing (about 20cm in length) and a couple of linear splits in the sheer clamp near the bow on the good ol' starboard side. There was an epoxy and glass repair to the deck and the sheer plank in this spot so it looks to me like the boat may have banged a pole or something here at some point.





I'll be able to put just a few more hours into the Twister this week but on Saturday it's back to Hanoi for a few months. I hope to use some of the spare time to plan out the new cockpit and cabin arrangements. Rick

[Candyfloss]

I bags not the trawler.

You'll keep in touch from Hanoi Rick?

[RFNK]

I will. I'm taking the inside measurements with me so I'll probably float a few ideas around and see what people think and I'll be looking for ideas from others of course! Rick

[cookie]

Hi Rick,

Sorry for mistakenly calling your Twister a Folkboat. I realized that after breaking my head over Kerry's drawing. The above pics make it even more evident. So much new stuff to learn for me in a different language makes it easy to slip up....

Looking forward to see your ideas for cockpit lay out.

Btw, may I ask what field of work you are in? Friends of mine did engineering work in Vietnam too. Mainly installing HUGE diesel engines or turbines.

[RFNK]

Cookie, easy mistake to make as we do also have a Folkboat and the 2 boats are a bit similar. I'm an educational consultant working on a project with the Government of Vietnam and the World Bank - nothing to do with boats unfortunately! It looks like I'll be here for a few more months and then probably head back to Oz. I'm not sure what I'll be doing back in Oz but it's most likely that it'll be in educational administration. I'd be happy to conti nue with consultancy work overseas but SWMBO is not too keen! and, of course, I have one boat to maintain and another to rebuild, so I need to get busier with those. Rick

[RFNK]

This is a post just to bump this thread up a bit - purely out of self-interest! as I'm always keen to hear ideas about possible directions with this one. I've been back in VN for a few weeks now so there's been no progress on the restoration except for a bit of thinking about the interior layout, cockpit and, of course, the big question about the basic strength of the hull and the best way to deal with that. Rick

[Gezzunder]

C'mon mate, nothing stopping you from posting drawings of your ideas

[RFNK]

C'mon mate, nothing stopping you from posting drawings of your ideas

Except that I don't have any ideas yet . I brought a pile of old WB magazines back to HN with me this time and I've been going through those. I will throw in some scanned images or something from a couple of those soon and I will try to be more productive as well! My drawing skills are crap too so that doesn't help! Hmm, now what other excuses can I think of ... Stay tuned! Rick

[floatingkiwi]

Hans
The hammer drill I bought was also on special and, like the driver, is the older, blue range. It was $245 - normally quite a lot more, and I got it from New Lambton Electric Motors in Newcastle. I'm getting the driver from them so if you can't find the drill anywhere else, let me know and I can pick one up from them if they have any left.

The local boatyard `Cove Marine' sells antifoul called Altex and everyone around here seems to use it. There don't seem to be too many problems with the bit of antifoul that is in and out of the water cracking up. It seems that you really need to have antifoul well above the waterline to avoid those ugly bits of algae building up and I think the boot top looks good. The only trick to painting the boot top that I know of is that it shouldn't be quite level. If it's level it looks like it's sloping down a bit at the front and back so it's better to paint it with a slight downward curve (slightly raised at each end) and then it looks just right. Rick

As well as the boot top having raised ends I believe it is proper to also have the bow end higher than the stern, for that right look..

as I believe, Graeme has already mentioned.

[Candyfloss]

Yep.

[RFNK]

Treading water restoration-wise in Vietnam has me finally thinking about the interior layout and cockpit layout for the Twister. I know the topic of interior layout has been done to death and it's easy enough to find plenty of great ideas in older posts but, if anyone would like to throw any more pictures or ideas in at this stage, I'd be most grateful! With a 28' boat, the interior options seem fairly limited to me - a few berths, a galley, a head, some storage space, a navigation area, bookshelf but is this really so? What good ideas have people come across?

As far as cockpit layout goes, the Twister has a traveller behind the cockpit (thank goodness), I'm definitely going to build in a bridgedeck, but what layouts are people particularly happy with? All ideas gratefully accepted!!

Shouldn't be too hard to improve on the `original':





Rick

[Candyfloss]

No takers?

Not too much you can do in a 28 that ain't been done before.

Seems your companionway bulkhead is pretty well forward on this boat, giving you a long cockpit, but a cramped accommodation? So your insistence on a bridge deck might be forgivable. But I think it will make access to your headsail winches a bit awkward. You might have to move them back a bit. And the coamings are too high. And you need to tilt the winches forward a bit. They must override horribly. Can you fit the diesel tank in the bridge deck? Then you'll have room under the cockpit seats for some serious storage, or for quarter berths. I love quarter berths.

Just some ideas to get the ball rolling.

Oh, & whatever you decide on the interior, I hate centerline tables with dropdown leaves. I'd rather eat off my lap. As you probably do on the Folkboat.

[Candyfloss]

One outrageous solution I saw but never experienced was a U-shaped dinette forward, across the boat, facing the companionway. You would have to climb over it to get into the v-berth, but hey, you only do that once a day, & it sure gives you lots of options!

[RFNK]

Thanks Graeme, plenty of good ideas there! I'll certainly be moving the fuel tank forward and I will consider quarter berths. The boat wasn't in sailing condition when I got her so I don't know how the winches and other fittings were but all reports I've heard were that she was a dream to sail. The coaming does look high in the photo but it's not actually all that high, and it is comfortable. Rick

[Larks]

I can't add much Rick because I'm still doing the same as you for the H28, but here's the thread that Peter started (which you've probably sen anyway), it has some great interiors and I particularly like "Little Jim"

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/show...t=93792&page=2

also this one, where I aspire to the likes of the Newport 29 in post #75:

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92317

what's your headroom like?

[RFNK]

Thanks Greg, they're great resources that's for sure. And I agree re Little Jim and the Newport 29 - both beautiful! Headroom is good in the Twister - I can stand up! Of course, headroom in the average drainpipe is good compared to headroom in the Folkboat so maybe I'm just easy to please. Thanks for bumping Peter's thread. Rick