Home built trailers

[aeronca52]

Anybody know where I could look for info on how to build a boat trailer out of a car rear axle assembly? I was thinking of the rear from a front drive. Use the wheels, tires, axle, and springs, just add wood frames and hitch? How? The boats are light plywood rowboats under 150 lbs. Thanks for any help. Jim

[py]

I made one from the rear subframe of a morris mini. Just ubolted a 40mm sq galv tube along the centrline, some rollers on that, and and a couple of wooden bilge supports. Worked a treat.

[Nicholas Scheuer]

My 8-ft utility trailer is an old Apache tent camper chassis. I got it cheap, unbolted the decrepit box, trove to a landfil, and left the box.

Then I built a nice wooden box out of treated lumber and cedar.

The little 8" wheels were crappy, and one spindle was bent, so I eventually junked the axle and wheels in favor of a new square tube with rectangular flanges on the ends having holes that would match up with the front wheel spindles salvaged from a Dodge Omni.

I was driving an Omni at the time, so having the same wheel/tire combination on the trailer was a great "simplification" in equipment. Obtaining another spare to carry on the trailer was cheap and easy too, in case I was towing with a larger vehicle where the spare tire for the truck wouldn't fit.

It's still a great little trailer after 27 years.

Moby Nick

[Ron Williamson]

Dodge mini vans have(had?) a solid axle/leaf spring set up that makes a pretty nice utility trailer,though it is heavy for a 150lb. boat.
R

[MiddleAgesMan]

More trouble than it's worth, IMO. Google "redtrailers." They offer a line of Chinese trailers that come to you in 5 or 6 boxes. Assemble the parts and you have a basic trailer that can be adapted to many uses including carrying a small boat. Much easier to register than a true home-built, too. I bought their 4 by 8 folding model to carry my Goat Island Skiff.

[cat_duh_maran]

Harbor Freight carries some fairly inexpensive kit trailers. As others have said, what you are talking about is overkill.
Bruce

[Thorne]

I own two Harbor Frieght red trailers, and strongly recommend against buying them. The cheap Chinese steel fails when you least need (or expect) it to -- usually on the highway.

They are commonly used, but to save the wheel bearings many around here won't put them in the water, particularly salt water -- fine for lightweight boats but it sucks for heavy boats.

Used boat trailers are readily available almost everywhere (you don't list a location in your User CP), and can be fixed up by yourself or a mechanic or trailer shop -- replacing bearings or hubs, repacking grease, etc.

As above, you really don't want a suspension rated for 2000lbs on a trailer for a boat at 150lbs -- it bounces and shakes the poor boats badly. The HF trailers are rated for 1350lbs (or so depending on trailer) which is too much, and pulling leafsprings doesn't help -- I've tried it.


More HF trailer mod photos and store about midway down this page - http://www.luckhardt.com/dory1.html

Get an old EZLoader, Calkins or other US-built boat trailer and replace the worn parts, wiring and lights -- you'll never regret it.

[Thorne]

Be sure to check the brass grease nipples -- I found the ones included with both HF trailer kits to be very poor quality and snap off when linked to a greasegun's flexible connector. I replaced them with a bag o' nipples from the auto parts store which hold up fine.

HF trailers are certainly cheaper -- until something breaks. So far I've had a fender fall off on I-5, bearings fail after one season and perhaps 1500 miles, and a lot of rust as the paint peels off.

I had to buy a complete second trailer kit to replace the axle on my first one, as the non-standard sizes of nearly every part don't allow swapping up to US parts. Although some others have gotten bearing buddies to fit on their HF trailers, neither of my two sets of hubs would take any size of BB's...and I own one of every size.

Not trying to rain on your parade, mind you, and I certainly hope yours works out better! I have a number of friends up and down the coast that have HF trailers, and they seem to work well enough for limited mileage and non-immersion launches.

But I don't recommend the purchase or modification of HF or Northern Tool trailers when there are so many good-quality used boat trailers around on Craigslist for under $400 -- often with a "free" boat on 'em.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/1074077334.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/for/1082993147.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/boa/1082221520.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/boa/1081452796.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/boa/1079813173.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/boa/1078252532.html

[BobW]

Lots of sources for used trailers. Maybe there's a boat junkya... er, I mean, a used boat parts shop near you. Here's the side yard of one of the shops (Shipwreck Marine) in Sacramento (offered only as an example):

[switters]

good thread, I have been wondering in the back of my mind about a trailer this summer and was thinking of harbor freight. Good stuff here. I had to give up my last boat trailer as part of a package to get rid of the frozen snot fishing boat that had been sitting around.

[ChaseKenyon]

But I don't recommend the purchase or modification of HF or Northern Tool trailers when there are so many good-quality used boat trailers around on Craigslist for under $400 -- often with a "free" boat on 'em.

go one step further with this but first

Another thing, no one has the titles or paper work
on the used trailers. You have to tag them as home
made.

Take a guess. Call it a tee nee, or anyh other typical older common trailer. "i dub thee Tee Nee articulated launch tillitn trailer" Put that on the papers for registration but it has been restored and the numbers can not be found anymore. They'll give you a new vin number. Many of the Tee Nees and such from the 50's never had a vin number at best had a model numer on them anyway.

Back the main topic:

Yes use craigs list but even bette are the local and regional weekly news, classified and such type rags.
Get or borrow a good SAwz all or reciprocating saw. THe home owner ones are fine at $60 You willuse it for many things and if you need a HD prolevel one you probably already have the $240 beast anyway. Buy a ten pack of destruction /renovation type blades at least ten inches long.

Now look for the ads Fibreglass so and so needs work no engine nice trailer just needs paint.

Fact The boat is worthless. owner can't take it to the town dump/recycling center as a boat without paying big fee to drop it off. ($150 to 250 minimum around here). So he has a trailer worth $ 350 but has a wrothless rotten snot boat sititing on it. He/she has no way to get rid of the snot and get it out of yard if the trailer sells separately. So he is forced to sel the "rig" as a unit. But , the snot boat devaluse it to $100 'cause no one wants to deal with it. you can have your pick of them. Take it home and Sawz all the snot into little pieces that will fit into regular HD garbage bags. TAke to the dump a little at a time. If you took the boat to the "dump" whole you are charged for the attendants having to cut it up in pieces to put in the compactor. Do it yourself and save $250 to $450. I always have at least one snot boat in the destruction cut up phase around here. I salvage all the marine hardware and windshilds and such and never cease to find new ways to use them for projects around the house and barn.

You are in control and it is a buyers market as they have this ugly snot boat to deal with.

As far as lights go K-Mart has a neat sporting goods section with fishing seats and other marine stuff cheap. They also have nice full trailer wiring kits with everythin for less than the big chain auto parts places and a the next up quallity level.

Hope this helps.

Chase

[D Happ]

Don't know where you are located but in Michigan, in order to use it on the highway, it needs a license plate. In order to do that you need to prove to the Sec. of State that you purchased the steel for the frame, the axle, and the wheels. Without original reciepts for that stuff, you cannot license it for use on the road, and you can't sell it. The axle comes with a certificate of origin and a seriel number. I bought the axle from Red Trailers. I used the rusty old axle for setup only.
I built this trailer for my plastic sailboat. Buying a used piece of junk and fixing it is almost more work that building a new one. I just looked at several trailers and came up wth my own design.
I have $750.00 invested in this trailer. It's used in freshwater only.


http://users.gotsky.com/dhapp/pirate...er_Page_2.html

[GregH]

I haven't ordered yet, but will opt for this:

http://www.castlecraft.com/small_sailboat_trailer.htm

for my Acorn Skiff. Not cheap, but highly recommended

[Thorne]

Grag -- great choice, wish I'd gone there instead of the cheap route. Anyone want a used HF axle and frame parts?

DHapp - Don't know about other states, but here in CA it is very common to re-register used commercial boat trailers -- I've been thru the process 3 or 4 times. Unless it was home-built originally, there is no need to prove the cost of the materials -- just show the ad you bought it from and get a bill of sale from the seller with the price listed.

Make an appointment at the DMV, get the paperwork for one-day transport if you want to worry about that, show up with the trailer, get it inspected, they'll issue a new VIN # if they can't find one, pay for the plates and off ya go. Easy and usually under $70. Same process for the HF trailer that I assembled new.

[aeronca52]

Thanks for all the good replies guys. Actually I was leaning toward car parts simply because I wanted to stay away from the smallish trailer tires supplied with regular boat trailers or kits. I have a trailer a friend and I made ( actually it was homemade when I bought it-for a Penn Yan 14 ft or so boat) anyhow we cut it in half and welded 9 feet of 2" angle to make it long enough for my 25' Bolger bateau.
I really like the smooth ride the larger 15" tires give.That and the fact I can build it to carry a boat (or two) just the way I like. Jim

PS sorry for not giving a location-eastern Pennsylvania-most of the trailers I find for sale are in the $2,3,400 price range and need that much in repairs to be roadworthy, although PA doesn't at the moment require inspection. I also forgot to mention I use innertubes and run them slightly (I said slightly) under pressure for a softer ride.
Had some leads on Craigslist but the sellers priced the trailers as if they were made of precious metals.

[Thorne]

Even with the tires nearly flat, a heavy axle and trailer will bounce a 150lb wooden boat around severely. The smaller tires can be a concern when they are 8", but the 12" tires work just fine even for long road trips. That is why they are commonly used on commercial boat trailers for boats under a ton or so.

Here's a nice Calkins trailer for $650 with free boat -
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/boa/1085371029.html

Small boat trailer for $200 -
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/boa/1084989549.html

Try contacting these guys about what offers they've turned down, or placing a similar WTB ad -
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/boa/1084650970.html
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/boa/1083694278.html

Boat trailer for $200 -
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/boa/1081275665.html

Larger boat trailer $450 -
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/boa/1062733382.html

and lots more at http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/s...Btrailer&s=200

I got the Cosine Wherry below on Craigslist for free with two sets of spoon oars - just paid the cost of the nearly-new galvanized EZLoader trailer $825 -

[D Happ]

Thorne,
I understand re-registering a trailer. The owner is the one who has to re-register it.

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/boa/1084989549.html

The trailer you quoted above has a certificate of origin, or was registered, and there is proof of ownership somewhere.
All vehicles have a registration if used, or a certificate of origin if new.
Someone owns that trailer you quoted above and it might not be the guy selling it. A bill of sale proves nothing.
If all that was needed was a bill of sale, there is nothing to stop anyone from stealing a trailer and selling it with a bill of sale. Right?

DHapp - Don't know about other states, but here in CA it is very common to re-register used commercial boat trailers -- I've been thru the process 3 or 4 times. Unless it was home-built originally, there is no need to prove the cost of the materials -- just show the ad you bought it from and get a bill of sale from the seller with the price listed.

The certificate of origin proves the OEM's cost of materials.
It is illegal in Calif. to use only a bill of sale.

5753. (a) It is unlawful for any person to fail or neglect properly to endorse, date, and deliver the certificate of ownership and, when having possession, to deliver the registration card to a transferee who is lawfully entitled to a transfer of registration.

Now, where is that Cosine Wheery located, my buddy needs a trailer exactly like that one, and I can come up with a bill of sale.

[seedy]

Jim,

Do you know if PA issues plates for trailers without VIN's? I have a boat I need to move, but the VIN is gone from it and the previous reg is from Maine.

PS sorry for not giving a location-eastern Pennsylvania-most of the trailers I find for sale are in the $2,3,400 price range and need that much in repairs to be roadworthy, although PA doesn't at the moment require inspection.

[Thorne]

Looks like different states use different terms, but I've often re-registered trailers with no VIN, ID#, Cert. of Origin, etc. The DMV inspector looks for a number or builder's plate of any kind, if they can't find one they issue their own on a small sticky metal tag that goes on the frame.

From what I can tell, the DMV really doesn't worry about stolen trailers that much -- they probably have bigger fish to fry. So I don't get the point about the fact that they can be stolen and re-registered -- so can all other mobile vehicles.

So it really is easy to register a used commercial trailer, whether it has a VIN or other number or not. A used home-built trailer the same. There is a new form that you use in place of the pink slip, as they don't issue those for newly-registered trailers unless you pay extra. But I've been able to re-register trailers without plates, VIN or no VIN here with no problem -- did two small utility trailers in '08, later sold one of the same. Buyer had no problem re-registering it.

The sticking point is a NEW home-built trailer, as like new home-built boats, you may have to provide the cost of materials, proof that you paid sales tax on same, etc.

The only need that I see for home-built boat trailers is for uncommon hull forms. There's a guy around here with a lovely Hampden boat, but the keel/skeg setup combined with the curve of the hull up to the transom really rule out a standard trailer. So he's built one that allows supports to drop down for launch and recovery, then raise up to support the aft part of the boat for transport.

[D Happ]

If you have the registration from the owner in Maine and it is signed by him/her transfering ownership, you now own it. Most states let you move it one time to get it home without a current registration but it then must be registered once you get it home, before you move it again.
However, when I glance over the PennDOT vehicle code, I would say you cannot move it on the highway until it is registered. You can read it here.

http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms.../chapter13.pdf

http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/vehicle_code/index.shtml

As far as not having a vin anymore, I guess you have to assume that the registration you have goes with the trailer you bought.
VIN decals missing is pretty common for boat trailers. That is why I bought a set of number stamps and I stamp the original number right along side the sticker, and all over the place, axles ect...
Now I'm not a lawyer by any stretch so it's up to you to make sure you're buying a trailer, or boat, or car, or truck, from the person that actually owns it. People constantly buy trailers just to find out they can't register it with only a bill of sale. So they turn around and sell it. Take my advice with a grain of salt. It's worth every penny you paid for it.

[D Happ]

So it really is easy to register a used commercial trailer, whether it has a VIN or other number or not.

There you go aeronca52. Stop by any boat launch ramp and pick out the one you want.
Problem solved.

[Thorne]

DHapp -

I'd suggest leaving that sort of stuff in the Bilge.

We are trying to have a discussion here, and there are bound to be differences of opinion that everyone should accept gracefully. But suggesting theft or threatening to steal boat trailers really doesn't get you anywhere. Hope you aren't close to your "buddy" -- he's welcome to come by and try.

As for transporting an un-registered trailer home from your purchase, you takes your chances. To get it to the DMV without risking a ticket, you can apply for a one-day permit to transport it on the roads to the DMV for inspection. Been there, done that several times last year.

[D Happ]

Thorne,

Not going to steal anything, just making a point.

Building a trailer for 150 lb boat will be dificult no matter what.
When I built mine, I used 2000 lb springs and cut out three of the four leaves, but it's still pretty stiff and my boat weighs 350lb with the gear.

My long winded point, was to spend time building a trailer you can't get a plate for is a waste of time and money and very frustrating.

[Garret]

Hi -

Here in the northeast (midwest too) Tractor Supply has decent quality axles, etc. for sale for an OK price, then build it.

If you end up buying an old trailer without a VIN, you can (at least in Vermont) follow the TeeNee trailer advice up above. Or - (not that I've ever done this - just read about it ;-) - make up a mfr. name, stamp a number on the tongue & make out a bill of sale for that mfr & VIN. Just make sure it's listed as being old enough to where a title is not required (varies from state to state, but here in the Vermont it's 15 years).

Oh - on the bill of sale, make sure the seller doesn't use handwriting that looks like yours.....

Garret

[Thorne]

Dhapp -

Sorry if my post was confrontational, and thanks for your reasoned reply!

You are very right about the difficulty of building a trailer for boats that light. The best used ones are the old Holsclaw trailers as they have both coil springs and shock absorbers -- but the only one I've owned was so heavily rusted after 30+ years of saltwater use that it wasn't worth repairing.

The best build-it-new-from-parts option I've found (and I researched it quite heavily) are torsion axles from Northern Tool - http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...+166843+775721 .

The upside is that they sell a set of torsion axles rated for 500lbs -- the downside is that torsion axles are VERY stiff until you get close to the rated load. As we say here on the Forum, "Don't ask me how I know this"...but my newly-restored utility trailer with torsion axles rated at 1000lbs will do 3' hops on the freeway if towed empty.

The reason I looked at them is that all of the leafspring sets and axles they (and other online and brick'n mortar resellers) sell are rated for a ton -- far too stiff for lightweight wooden boats.

My one experience in pulling leafsprings was not a good one -- the trailer seems just as stiff and now bangs a bit when you hit a bump before the spring takes the load.

[D Happ]

Yup,

Torsion axles rated for 500 lbs might be the ticket if you build a really heavy trailer, say 350 - 400 lbs of steel. It would cusion the load and protect the boat nicely. Might be the way to go.

Finding plans for trailers is impossible becasue no one wants the liability.

[D Happ]

Thorne,
Do you have shackles on those trailer springs?
Can't tell from the photo.
Dan

[Garret]

Thorne,
Do you have shackles on those trailer springs?
Can't tell from the photo.
Dan

I'm pretty sure it's a "slipper" spring - no attachment other than gravity on the back end - fairly common on little trailers.

HTH

Garret

[The Bigfella]

The sticking point is a NEW home-built trailer, as like new home-built boats, you may have to provide the cost of materials, proof that you paid sales tax on same, etc.

This sounds like bureaucracy gone mad. Are they worried you might have an illegal steel mill in your back yard and they are missing out on 50 cents worth of taxes?

Here's us a couple of months back, re-building my trailer... we re-used the axle - but put a 4" drop on it with new stub axles - and went from small trailer wheels to the most popular local GM bearings and wheels, we also re-used the old coupling and winch setup. This trailer now services a 12' fibreglass catamaran and a 14' putt putt (which got its first ride on the trailer on Saturday)










The trailer is built out of 3mm wall thickness steel, now galvanised. It is built with adaptability in mind - I can use it for a track car too if I want (by adding another axle with brakes) - and it has half a dozen spots for different bed supports..

[Brian Palmer]

Here in PA it is actually easier to title a home built trailer rather than a commercially built untitled trailer bought used. To do the latter, you need to prove that you rebuilt a salvaged junk trailer. I.e., replace the axles and tires and lights and have receipts for all of that.

I bought a good used trailer at a fair price from a boat dealer. He had the title and did the registration for me, and even gave me a 30 day warranty on it after checking over the lights and bearings.

Brian

[Thorne]

Funny story on the Coots list about a fellow with a very well-sealed square-tube frame boat trailer. It floats and they had a hell of a time getting the boat back on it at a recent event! ;0 )

A good reason to use angle iron where you can on these trailers, plus the ability to get to all the sides for painting and rust removal.

DHapp - They are attached at both ends of the big leafspring.

I think that Glen-L or Dynamite Payson has some plans for wood-frame boat trailers -- worth a shot if you want to go that route. No worries about rust, at least.

[rbgarr]

Had some leads on Craigslist but the sellers priced the trailers as if they were made of precious metals.

I thought this one on CL was!! Turned out he didn't know what he was talking about.

15' stainless steel boat trailer, 2005, yours for $450.00

[Thorne]

Actually there are stories, probably apocryphal, of the new all-aluminum boat trailers being stolen for the metals -- could be true! They are lovely things, particularly for small boats in salt water areas, and one person can pick up the axle end to reposition it on the ramp.

[TimT]

I researched cheap trailers a few weeks ago while waiting for the ice to melt. It melted and the kayak is distracting me from finishing the Rangeley.

I'm planning on building on the low end of the tractor supply trailers for my Rangeley. That's next month's project. I'll replace the tongue with a longer tube and build bunks on the bed. The 2000lb axle is a little heavier than I'd like. We'll see if it becomes an issue.

Tractor Supply http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...&Special=false Tractor supply stocks the Carry-on brand of trailers, same as Lowes.

red trailer www.redtrailers.com -Their prices are higher than HF and their advertising differentiate their stuff from other mail-order brands. Judging by the photos, it is not the same product. Their "contact us" email address wouldn't or couldn't provide me with a hitch ball to front of bed measurement however.

Northern Tool www.northerntool.com Photos and prices are very similar to the HF line.

HF- See Thorne's comments. I buy single use, disposable stuff there.

Trailex www.trailex.com SUT-200-S or SUT-350-S. One or two members of this forum have them (Abe?) They are more expensive than the reworked utility trailer option.

[The Bigfella]

Funny story on the Coots list about a fellow with a very well-sealed square-tube frame boat trailer. It floats and they had a hell of a time getting the boat back on it at a recent event! ;0 )

A good reason to use angle iron where you can on these trailers, plus the ability to get to all the sides for painting and rust removal.

Galvanise it. btw - you can't have a single enclosed area if you galvanise a trailer - it all has to drain. An enclosed tube would explode if put into a hot zinc tank (at 400C or more).

[aeronca52]

Hi Guys, Sorry I've been away but work keeps rearing it's ugly head.
Regarding the home built trailer I modified, I remember I registered it with the previous owner and myself at a Notary. The owner had his registration card so maybe that made it easier. On the other hand, I later asked PennDot if the 9' modification made any difference in the title and the voice asked if the 9' was already installed , I said it was, (I thought I heard a shrug) then they responded, "Then it's registered". I knew enough to say thank you and hang up.
On another note, when I registered my 2 home built boats I had to show the invoices for the materials I purchased to build the boats. As if the clerk would know what materials I used and if there were enough invoices to cover the picture of the boat I DREW so she knew what type of boat it was.!!! Again, I knew enough when to say thank you and leave.
Back to the trailers, I really appreciate all the responses and I have checked out all the references so your efforts have not been in vain.
Right now it's hard to spend even a couple hundred $$ which is why I thought building a trailer piece by piece would be easier financially and would make a nice seasonal project.
Thorne, thanks for the brain toggle. I remembered I have a Glen-L book on trailers somewhere, now just to find it. Jim

[aeronca52]

This is sort of a late follow up but it helps to close a subject thread anyway. Two weeks ago while on a local road rally with my son we passed a boat trailer for sale. No price, just a phone#. Quickly got out of car and scribbled down the # on the back of the rally instructions. Called and left my name and # with the voice mail. (the timing was important).

After the rally ended we went back and looked it over and it wasn't half bad. Pipe frame, tires 50% used, winch works, lights look newish, and it's 1 7/8" hitch which fits the ball I have. Nobody around so I call again and leave my # and message again.
A few hours later the seller calls and said several people have stopped and looked at it but since I called first (remember that quick call during the rally?) I had dibs on it. What a guy. I ask how much. He wants $60.00 !!!!!!!!!!!! Ok says I wondering what I missed to make it such a low price.

Turns out the trailer was in the garage when he bought the house and he had no use for it. Also he had no title for it. I ran in and gave him the $ with a promise to pick it up later with my son in law's truck. 4 days later we go to pick it up and he gives me an aluminum rudder and tiller he found in the basement. He had no use for that either. He also was nice enough to make out a bill of sale to help with any registration bumps I might have.

So now it's home here in the barn on blocks, waiting for the boat to be finished and head for the lake. By the way, the boat came without a tiller and rudder. Hummmmmm..........

Just wanted to let you all know how things worked out.

[pipefitter]

I have built quite a few trailers, including one for a monster truck. Don't fret about trying to find trailers for light weight(within reason) boats. You're better off getting the right axles and springs for the stability and better bearings and adding ballast to the trailer. The advantages being that you can fine tune tongue weight, etc.

I ended up finding two at a local equipment auction for $200.00 each. Took all the best parts for mine and sold the other nearly instantly which made mine almost free. All I had to buy was lights and new tires. So many package deal boats are bought with galv trailers and more than half of the buyers opt for an aluminum replacement, so many of these trailers are new.

[aeronca52]

Thanks for the info pipefitter, I didn't realize people trade galvanized for aluminum so much.