New Matinicus Peapod under construction

[johngsandusky]

I see it. More beautiful work.

[Breakaway]

very nice!

Kevin

[jim_cricket]

Work continues on Mouse. I have fabricated and installed the main mast partner, or thwart if you like. I built it as a gate, with an open front so i might have a chance at raising and lowering the mast afloat.


Here is the partner blank, with a dummy mast. The mast will be square from the partner down, and round of course, from there on up.

I've been saving some 1/16" bronze sheet for a while, and dug it out to make straps for a gate pin.



I tried to bend it around a wood die, but it was too stiff. Luckily, a shop down the hall has a Diacro bender and graciously let me bend it down there.



I got a nice scrap of leather from the shop across the hall (kikany.com) and lined the mast opening. The gate pin was cut from a scrap of white oak, and the straps were bolted on.


The partner and knees are bedded to hull with Sikaflex.

As usual, the full story is on the blog, http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com
More later,
Cricket

[Breakaway]

Beautiful. May I ask whether the leather was bedded in any goop, or was it just fastened in place?

Kevin

[JoshuaIII]

Fancy!

[jim_cricket]

Beautiful. May I ask whether the leather was bedded in any goop, or was it just fastened in place?

Kevin

I didn't bed it, but used some Weldwood contact glue to help me hold it in place while pulling it tight. Didn't think of bedding it. Should I have? I wouldn't bed oar leathers, and I approached it kind of like that.

[Breakaway]

Should I have? I wouldn't bed oar leathers, and I approached it kind of like that.

Hi Jim

I am certainly NOT the one to ask that question of. I was just curious myself.

Kevin

[jim_cricket]

While fabricating the mast partner, I also made up the deck carlins, and the two fore and aft deck beams on the centerline. I call these king planks, though that is not the right term. Extended breast hooks? These run from the cockpit opening to the stem at both ends of the boat, and the aft one is bored for the mizzen mast.


Carlins and deck beams.

I notched these into the beams, and fitted them to butt against the inside of the stem face and inwales. I used scrap ply from planking for the king planks, and laminated two layers to the slight sheer curve right on the boat.





I picked up the angle of the mizzen from the lofting, but I measured it relative to the water-plane, instead of normal to the sheer. I had just started to bore the hole when I thought to check myself, and discovered it was not only the wrong angle, but the plank was flipped end for end and the angle was backward as well!. I caught it before ruining the plank though, and fixed the problem. One of those little guardian angel moments.


Setting the drill press to the (incorrect) angle for the mizzen mast.


The corrected angle, and orientation.

Meanwhile, the sailmaker has the drawings, and when I get the $$, I'll get him going!

Check the blog.
Cricket

[PeterSibley]

She is going to be the nicest rowing boat !!! Sweet !

[Sailor]

He said Sailmaker so she'll be a pretty little sailing boat too Peter.....

[PeterSibley]

Yes, but rowing is the true test, so many boats are just dogs to row .

[doyle007]

Jim, what a fantastic project. I am in awe of the craftsmanship. I got the plans and DVD for Arch Davis's 12' Peapod that has been in the last few issues for Christmas, and would like to think that I can build that someday. Your project has definitely gotten me inspired.

If you ever bring it down to Barnegat Bay again, please let me know, as I'll make the short drive to see that boat in person.

[jim_cricket]

Jim, what a fantastic project. I am in awe of the craftsmanship. I got the plans and DVD for Arch Davis's 12' Peapod that has been in the last few issues for Christmas, and would like to think that I can build that someday. Your project has definitely gotten me inspired

If you ever bring it down to Barnegat Bay again, please let me know, as I'll make the short drive to see that boat in person.

No time like the present to start a new boat. The Arch Davis peapod would be a great first project. Its ambitious, but straight forward. The lap battens will help in beveling, and keeping the palnks fair. When you're done with that, a Matinicus is the logical next step. I do know, however, that Walter Simmons is close to done with a new Jonesport type. When I called yesterday to order some rudder hardware, he was in the shop painting. That boat will be awesome, and big for a peapod. 18' x 6' beam. He'll have plans for that one soon!
I'm on Jamaica Bay in Brooklyn, not too far north of Barnegat. Come on up.
Cricket

ps Peter S. I'm thinking she'll row pretty good. That's one reason I wanted the mast gate, so I could drop the rig to row.

[Yeadon]

Nice work.

[Songololo]

Jim, have you seen this thread http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...on-Study-Video

[jim_cricket]

Jim, have you seen this thread http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...on-Study-Video

I had not seen that. Thank you very much! I'll look at the video tonite, and I sent a request to David for his pdf.
Thanks again,
Cricket

[jim_cricket]

Some more progress to report. I just installed the oval beams that define the ends of the cockpit. These were laminated to the deck curve, and notched slightly into the carlins.


The oval beam patterns are laid out on the laminated beam stock.


The beams were sawn out and glued into the boat...


...and faired into the deck framing.

I decided to laminate my oval coamings before decking the boat. For this I used 1/16" sapele veneer, sandwiched between wiggle ply cauls, and glued around form blocks that were clamped to the deck beams.




The pile of sapele veneer.

[jim_cricket]

To continue...


I clamped the layup around the form blocks.

My friend Matthew came by the shop to help me wrestle this mess into the boat. Matt built a nice little gaff sloop rigged skiff a few years ago on the roof of his loft in Brooklyn. I'm not sure how it came down, I wasn't there. But its a nice boat. I put some pics of Matt's boat on my blog, in the latest post. I'll upload them to my website when I get the chance, and post them here later.

Here's the laminated coaming.





I'm working on the rudder now, until I get the material in for the deck.
Cricket

[Duane Brown]

Jim, beautiful work. I just can't wait to see her in the water. You have done an excellent job on the layout of your boat. The deck arrangment is super. Do you have an estimated launch date? I'm looking forward to it.

[jim_cricket]

Thanks very much, Duane. I'm planning on launching this summer, sooner rather than later I hope. Still have a ways to go yet, though.
Jim

[StevenBauer]

And if you haven't seen the Museum's DVD "Peapods Of The Maine Coast" you should track down a copy, too.


Steven

[jim_cricket]

And if you haven't seen the Museum's DVD "Peapods Of The Maine Coast" you should track down a copy, too.


Steven

I've been meaning to buy that for years. Next order to Hamilton or Jamestown, I'll do it.

[jim_cricket]

I mentioned my friend Matthew's flatiron, Glory Hole. I uploaded a few pics of his boat shot by Chris Bickford in Jamaica Bay, NY our home waters. We have a little budding trad. boat scene just gearing up at my club. Chris has a melonseed built by Phil Maynard, and Matthew as I said, built his boat on the roof of his Brooklyn loft. I have Cricket, a couple of sailing canoes, and the peapod (soon).





Matt built a few scale models, and lifted the shape right from the model, with no design experience. The boat turned out pretty well. He rigged it as a gaff cat originally, then added a bow sprit and jib later. Total sail area is about 90 to 95 ft.



Sorry for the thread hijack.
Cricket

[BBSebens]

Your definitely allowed to hijack your own thread for boat porn!

I can assure you that your Mattinicus will be an excellent rower. Matty rows really nice from the forward rowing position, and sits really nice with a little extra weight in the stern. I find that a pretty girl works well.

Speaking of rowing positions, I found that the aft rowing station on Matty is a little too far aft, and isn't a very pleasant place to row from. Too narrow and not enough foot room. If you can, get in it and feel out a good position.

Taking a second look at your arrangement, I don't think you have room for a second rowing position, which maybe was the plan?

BTW... how is a person going to sit on the side benches with those side decks in the way?

Top notch work! looking forward to launching pictures.


Oh! One more thing... did you draw the Lug Yawl rig yourself? Or did you get plans for it? I need to acquire a sail plan for when I convert from the Sprit to Lug Yawl.

[jim_cricket]

Hi Ben,
You make some valid points, and I have thought about these issues. The aft rowing position is as Walt shows it, as yours is too, I believe. I spent some time sitting in the boat, and that thwart is actually pretty comfy. The most aft frame is just right for a foot rest, for my legs anyway. I don't have the athwartship stern sheet support like you have, so I may have more foot room. That rowing station has always seemed far aft to me though, and time will tell whether it is functional or not. I don't have much experience with multi position rowing craft. My boats have always been sailing-centric. Cricket has just one seat to row from, so I make do, and sail unless its a flat calm, or to row out my bridge. The forward rowing position seems perfect with crew in the stern like you say, either steering with the tiller, or not, with the rudder kicked up. I have been thinking lately that I would carry a removable thwart which notches around the midship frame (or maybe a grub box type seat), and add a third oarlock for a more centered solo position. I'll make a foam or cedar plug for the dagger trunk for serious rowing. I also have the stand-up oarlocks to think about.

The side benches are definitely narrow inside the decks. The corners where they join the thwarts are very comfortable, though. I like to sail upwind from the deck anyway, on any boat I ever had. The middle side benches could always be removed if they prove useless. They are not glued in or anything. The boat is pretty deep though, and it gets harder every year to jump up on the rail from the bottom of the boat! So I'm hoping they will be functional. The corners are nice, as I said.

I did draw the yawl sail plan, and I can send you a pdf. I enlarged the main to 80' from 75' after talking to the sailmaker. I have not drawn the spars yet, though. I'm going soon to get material so I'll have to figure that part out. I'm working on the rudder details now.

Thanks very much for your considered evaluation of the layout. It keeps me thinking!
Jim

[Vernon]

Looking very nice Jim.
Vern

[BBSebens]

Hi Ben,
You make some valid points, and I have thought about these issues. The aft rowing position is as Walt shows it, as yours is too, I believe. I spent some time sitting in the boat, and that thwart is actually pretty comfy. The most aft frame is just right for a foot rest, for my legs anyway. I don't have the athwartship stern sheet support like you have, so I may have more foot room. That rowing station has always seemed far aft to me though, and time will tell whether it is functional or not. I don't have much experience with multi position rowing craft. My boats have always been sailing-centric. Cricket has just one seat to row from, so I make do, and sail unless its a flat calm, or to row out my bridge. The forward rowing position seems perfect with crew in the stern like you say, either steering with the tiller, or not, with the rudder kicked up. I have been thinking lately that I would carry a removable thwart which notches around the midship frame (or maybe a grub box type seat), and add a third oarlock for a more centered solo position. I'll make a foam or cedar plug for the dagger trunk for serious rowing. I also have the stand-up oarlocks to think about.

The side benches are definitely narrow inside the decks. The corners where they join the thwarts are very comfortable, though. I like to sail upwind from the deck anyway, on any boat I ever had. The middle side benches could always be removed if they prove useless. They are not glued in or anything. The boat is pretty deep though, and it gets harder every year to jump up on the rail from the bottom of the boat! So I'm hoping they will be functional. The corners are nice, as I said.

I did draw the yawl sail plan, and I can send you a pdf. I enlarged the main to 80' from 75' after talking to the sailmaker. I have not drawn the spars yet, though. I'm going soon to get material so I'll have to figure that part out. I'm working on the rudder details now.

Thanks very much for your considered evaluation of the layout. It keeps me thinking!
Jim

I would really appreciate a copy of that sail plan.

Being able to get the bow up a little bit really helps with rowing, as the plank keel sort of planes a little. Last spring, I broke my mast step, and was towed the last few miles home. I sat in the stern, and it was a great ride. However, when I went forward to adjust the tow-line, the bow dug in and it began to weave about.

[jim_cricket]

I've been working on the rudder lately, while I scraped up the $$ to buy my deck ply. The rudder that was designed for the boat is fixed, and I wanted a kick-up, so I had to design that myself. The one I originally drew, which has been shown in the various rig plans I've shown has a swept back blade.



I was all ready to cut this one out, when I had a change of heart. Something didn't look quite right, so I re-drew the rudder with a more plumb blade. I got the idea for the plan form from looking at the various Oughtred double enders.



Without going into too lengthy an explanation here (that's all on the blog) the rudder has a core, two cheeks, and a blade. The blade I'll put off until I make the dagger board. The rudder hardware is from Walt Simmons, and is cast bronze. There are two sets of gudgeons, one for the rudder, and one for the stern post, and the rudder pivots on a 5/16" rod run through the whole business.

I made a masonite pattern first...



...then made a mylar tracing of all the parts. The core is made in two halves, with mortised in sheaves and races for the up and down haul lines.



I'll admit right here that I got this idea from McMullen's Rowan pictures on his thread. Thanks James! The gudgeons have to be let into the core, and the cheeks have to notch over them as well, so they end up buried inside the rudder.



Eventually, a brass pin will go all the way through the rudder, and get peened over outside the cheeks. The same is true for the sheave pivots.

More on the next post...

[jim_cricket]

I hung the rudder core on the boat, to check everything out. A dowel stands in for the rod, temporarily.





The cheeks were glued up from sapele.



Here are the cheeks clamped up around the core. The up-haul sheave mortise is visible at the top.



The gudgeons are buried in the core. I epoxy coated the inside faces of the cheeks before gluing them up.



That's where we are now. I'm putting this aside for now. The deck ply has arrived, and I'm anxious to get the boat closed in.
Stay tuned...
Cricket

[Arko]

Would you please hurry up and finish this thing? Excellent looking work as always and the thought put into each eand every component is certainly going to be worth the effort. Maybe I will come up just so I can take a sail in her.

[jim_cricket]

Would you please hurry up and finish this thing? Excellent looking work as always and the thought put into each eand every component is certainly going to be worth the effort. Maybe I will come up just so I can take a sail in her.

Thanks Arko, anytime!

[jim_cricket]

I cut out the decks yesterday, one of the easiest and most straight forward jobs on the boat yet. I bought two sheets of 6mm ply, not sure how I would cut them out. But I decided to make the deck in 4 pieces, with seams down the centerline at the ends. I'll also need short pieces amidship, which I'll attach with typical butt blocks fitted between the sheer clamp and carlin.

I used cardboard for my template. I get a couple of 4x8 sheets every time I get a plywood delivery, and its useful in many ways in the shop. And recyclable.


Cardboard quarter pattern.

For the cutout around the stems, I hot-glue thin ply scraps to the pattern (my motto is- if you don't know what to do next, plug in the hot glue gun). I then trace off the shape underneath, inside and out.



I cut the patterns out with a utility knife, and laid them out on my occume ply.


By nesting the pieces, I can get all the decking out of one sheet.





The deck pieces are rough cut, as yet, and fastened with small temp. screws. They will be trimmed close before bonding onto the boat. The gaps amidship will be filled with short pieces, atacched with butt blocks underneath. These also cross a deck beam. I'm now coating the under side of the deck panels. I'll get two coats of epoxy, sanded smooth, before installing the deck.

More later...
Cricket

[jim_cricket]

I've now got the decks glued, the seams glassed, and the screw holes filled and faired. I screwed the deck on with small, temp. screws, and used masking tape "clamps" also, to pull the deck down tight. I then filled the screw holes with toothpicks, and dripped a drop of epoxy on top after cutting them off below the deck surface. I also ground a hollow in the deck seam for a strip of glass tape (cut cloth actually, don't have any tape).


The hollow at the seams is shown here. I filled up the seam and screw holes before glassing (not done yet in this photo).




The seams are glassed.


I bought a small kit of the System 3 Quick Fair, to try out on the decks, and I love it. Its creamy smooth and consistent, plus it sets in 4 hours. Pricey, but nice stuff.



So here we are now. Faired, and a coat of epoxy over all. I'm scarfing up the rubrails tonight. They'll go on soon. I plan to flip the boat next, and get the outside faired up and painted.
Time to get to work.
Cricket

[JayInOz]

Work faster Jim This is a joy to watch. JayInOz

[Arko]

It's everything I'd hoped for. Can't wait to take delivery! I've got the new trailer like we talked about and a new cover so I'm just waiting on you Jim, but don't feel rushed, I'm enjoying watching the build.
Got so caught up in my fanatsy I forgot to say how fine a job you're doing, fine job! It really is beautiful!

[jim_cricket]

Work is the problem Jay. Gotta keep cranking out the millwork to afford the shop that builds the boats!

Arko, just bring along a certified check for 20k. I've got a trailer I can throw in. Meanwhile, we're working the rubrails that were scarfed up last night, and installing the drain through the bottom of the plank keel.

Cricket

[PeterSibley]

Jim, I've been saving a lot of photos from this thread as I'll be starting an 18 foot Selway Fisher JIM canoe yawl this year, somewhat similar to your peapod if a bit bigger. Thank you for the instruction!

[jim_cricket]

Hi Peter,
Thanks very much. I had a look at JIM, and that's a lot of boat! I'm looking forward to seeing your project unfold. I like the canoe yawls quite a bit. That one looks like it will make a pretty good camp cruiser.
Keep us posted,
Cricket

[Tim Marchetti]

Beautiful work Jim. I too, have learned alot following this build. I have saved several pictures also. I really like the mast partner. I look forward to an action shot.

[jim_cricket]

I got a bit of work done this weekend. while working on the rubrails, scarfing up to length and fitting, etc. I also put the finish cuts on the stem heads and installed the drain plug in the plank keel. I fiddled around a little with the stem profiles, and made a quick pattern for the bow stem.



I made a few saw cuts, as close to the layout as possible, and then used a gouge to cut down to the line. I have a convex sole spokeshave, but its such an ornery tool I hardly ever use it. the gouge works good. I recently bought one of the nice hand cut rasps (Gramercy Tools) , and finished up with that and sandpaper of course.







For the stern stem (which must work with the rudder), I just drew a line that echoes the rudder head. There will be a fairlead that sits on top of the stern stem to direct the rudder control lines. I was able to use the regular flat soled spokeshave for this end.



Continued in next post...

[jim_cricket]

The drain plug was installed also. I got this pricey one from Hamilton Marine, but didn't like the female part that mounts to the keel. I bought a regular old threaded coupling from the plumbing supply, and cut it in half with a hacksaw. While I like the "T" handle on this unit, a nipple with a cap would work just as well, at a fraction of the cost. Next time.



My plank keel is 1-1/2" thick, so i drilled a stepped hole all the way through. the inboard half is 1-1/4" diameter, big enough for the coupling, plus a bed of epoxy. I drilled a 7/8" hole the rest of the way through the keel.



Underneath the boat, I wedged a piece of blue foam tight to the underside, then primed the cutout with unthickened epoxy, and filled up the lower section with thick epoxy (I do this to cast an epoxy tube to keep water out of the end grain of the keel). I covered the opening of the coupling with foil tape, screwed in the handle, and bedded the whole thing down in the upper hole with more thickened epoxy, and propped it up to cure. The foil tape keeps epoxy from filling the coupling and welding the handle in.



Here's the whole thing glued into the boat. Next, I'll pull out the handle and drill a hole through the epoxy bushing cast in the keel.

Cricket

Now I just have

[jim_cricket]

Wow, we're buried way back on page 4. Better remedy that. I've actually been getting stuff done on the boat, along with work work, and building a new boatshop at my club (more on that later). I got behind on the blog, too, so I'm trying to catch up. I'll be putting the third coat of paint on the outside of the hull tomorrow. Here's a shot of the primer. I'll come back to the fairing and painting later.



Before this though, I scarfed up and installed the rub-rails. I had a nice, stable plank of sapele to use.



I have a jig I use for rail type scarfs. 8:1







Continued...

[johngsandusky]

Looks great.

[jim_cricket]

I clamped the rails to the boat, and cut the ends to fit. I usually make a pattern for this, but pressed for time, I just went for it. Came out pretty good.





After fitting the ends, I pulled the rails off and tapered them, both in thickness and in width, from about 4 or 5 ft. back, out to the ends. Then radiused with a router (tapered also).





At this point, I flipped the boat to finish fairing and painting the outside. That's about done by now, and I'll post some new stuff in a couple of days. In the meantime, I put a full description up on the blog. http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/

[Arko]

Lookin really fine Jimmy!! Been wondering about you. Good to see you're still movin forward on my boat, Summer is right around the corner. You are gonne be a smiling so big. That is a fine, fine looking boat.

[jim_cricket]

Thanks very much John and Arko. I appreciate the comments. Yesterday I put the last coat of paint on the outside, minus the sheer strake which is a different color, and which still has a couple of fasteners to go through (for blocks that support the stand-up oar locks). I'll paint the sheer after we go back upright. Before painting, I put a layer of 6 oz. glass on the keel, and wrapping a layer down into the d'board trunk.


Terrible photo, sorry, but I only shot one at the time. I let the glass cure, then trimmed it off with a knife.


Dagger trunk.

I scuff-sanded the glass, and filled the weave up with a thin fairing mix, then faired in the overlaps before painting with Petit primer/underbody. I spent a bit of time filling screw holes and touching up the lower plank scarfs. I glued up the first few plank scarfs right on the boat, but was not happy with that result, so subsequent planks were scarfed on the bench (or floor) before hanging. Much better method, at least for me. Anyway, I sanded out the primer with 220 tri-m-ite. It was surprising how many scratches and what-not that it filled.



I probably could have used more filling and another coat of underbody, but its good enough for me. The proof is in the finish, and I am pretty happy with that.


This is three coats of Petit Easypoxy mist grey. Its a pale grey. The sheer strake will be Hatteras white. Originally, I had intended to paint the sheer blue, but McMullen pointed out to me that it would match his rowan. Couldn't have that, so I changed the scheme. The white sheer will look good, I think.



I'll be flipping her back over next week. The biggest job left, besides the spars, is to fit the coamings. I still have to make the rudder blade and dagger, too. But we are getting closer.

Cricket

[BBSebens]

James changed his sheer strake to Green this winter... looks nice.

Blue all yours now!

Coming along nicely....

[PeterSibley]

You're setting the bar high Jim, a lovely job!

[johnno]

This is a delight to watch..enjoying every post Jim!

[jim_cricket]

I have been working on the boat, but not keeping up with the blogs or the WB posts, so going back to July 4th holiday, I spent a few days working on oarlocks, etc. I posted this story to the blog-
http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/20...r-part-17.html I'll just highlight a few things here.



I made ply patterns for the oarlock pads, curved of course, to fit the deck. The forward pads also carry the stand-up rowlocks from Walt Simmons. Their installation is tricky, because the shafts must go down through the pads, and into a support block attached to the planking under the deck. The plank is at an angle to the deck, so that had to be figured out to bore fore the support block.




The final shape of the support block, to be glued and screwed to the planking under the deck.


This is what the arrangement looks like.


The whole set of pads and rowlocks.