Redwing update

[WX]

What is in that bottle?

Sir, for your edification.

[Larks]

You are obviously a gentleman of good taste Gary! If you really like the Dalwhinnie, keep an eye out for a Dalmore. Both at the top of the list for me (along with a couple of others), with the Dalmore being my favourite of the two.

[shade of knucklehead]

That's what I thought it was. I just polished off a bottle a couple weeks ago.

[WX]

You are obviously a gentleman of good taste Gary! If you really like the Dalwhinnie, keep an eye out for a Dalmore. Both at the top of the list for me (along with a couple of others), with the Dalmore being my favourite of the two.

Oh I have good taste Greg, it's just that I can rarely afford to satisfy it.
This particular bottle was a gift to celebrate the pour.

[JimD]

Good job!

[shade of knucklehead]

Oh I have good taste Greg, it's just that I can rarely afford to satisfy it.
This particular bottle was a gift to celebrate the pour.

did you buy it yourself? I am constantly buying myself scotch to celebrate this and that. I don't need much of an excuse.

[WX]

did you buy it yourself? I am constantly buying myself scotch to celebrate this and that. I don't need much of an excuse.

No, that was $80! Every cent I have goes on the boat. I shall buy a bottle for the launch day so that at sunset I can sit back in the cockpit and enjoy a glass or two.

[shade of knucklehead]

I know. I just bought myself a bottle of Johnny Walker Blue to celebrate not killing my family while on a cruise. That was 200$ My Favorite right now is Balvenie DoubleWood 12 Year Old Single Malt Whisky Not bad for 50$ or so...

[WX]

I was doing a bit of planing on the ballast today and thinking about the bolt holes and the fact that I have one more bolt than I do holes to fit it. So, as they say, when in doubt look at the plans.So I did and there was the answer. The front most bolt doesn't go through the lead. It bolts the from the bottom of lowest keel timber up though the keelson, this means I only have to drill one hole through the lead.

[skuthorp]

"......when in doubt look at the plans........"
Steady on there Gary, you don't want to set a precedent!

[WX]

I know. I just bought myself a bottle of Johnny Walker Blue to celebrate not killing my family while on a cruise. That was 200$ My Favorite right now is Balvenie DoubleWood 12 Year Old Single Malt Whisky Not bad for 50$ or so...

My preference is for single malts but the reality is I will drink almost any whisky. I do draw the line at something claiming to be whisky I tried once that was distilled in Fiji.

[WX]

"......when in doubt look at the plans........"
Steady on there Gary, you don't want to set a precedent!

Sometimes Jeff when the chips are down and your back is to the wall, you have to resort to reason and god forbid, the manual.
While looking through my expanding file for the keel plans I came across some early internal layout drawings. I should scan them and post them to compare with what actually happened.

[WX]

Finished cleaning up one side of the ballast and by being inventive and stubborn I managed to turn it upside down. The bottom bulged a bit and this will have to be cleaned up so I can get at the keelbolt nut and washer recesses. The screws holding the blocks in place are sticking out of the lead so I know where they are.
Cleaning up and fairing a lead ballast is a messy business but I discovered my workshop vacuum cleaner will pick up the lead shavings no worries.
I've started a new list of little jobs that need doing.

[johnno]

Well done Gary! (pics?)..hope you added my jobs to that list of yours

[WX]

Wot you don't think I have enough of my own?
I will take some pics next time.

[WX]

Okay pictures. I took an early mark from work today and managed an hour on the lead. The last bit of the mold was definitely stubborn and took someone even more stubborn to remove it. Some of the lead had managed to get between the bottom and side framing.
Here's the stubborn bit.


The wonderful thing about lead is you can saw it, plane it and even chisel it.


Having a day off tomorrow so with luck it should be all cleaned up and ready for the next bit.

[PeterSibley]

Blame a badly made mould Gary .

[WX]

Nah, I should have bedded it in a wet mix and wrapping it in plastic didn't help. I think you did a good job considering the shape the thing had to be.

[PeterSibley]

Thanks Gary

[WX]

My planer blades cacked themselves so it was blow the dust off this little hand tool.

Apart from those man made gouges where I had to dig out some screws I reckon it's done. I'll either melt a bit of lead and fill them or just use a bit of thickened epoxy.
Which brings me to a question. Should I epoxy coat the lead before I antifoul it or would the antifoul be enough?
There's a few bits that will need filling but personally I'd be happy just to antifoul it. I'm moving it up closer to the boat before flip it on it's side again to finish off the bolt holes.

[RFNK]

You should use a primer under the antifoul so ..... decide on an antifoul and then see which primer you're supposed to use with it, and then see whether it's recommended that the primer go straight on to the lead or whether you should coat it with something else. If you want it all smooth, then I'd just coat it with epoxy fairing compound (resin plus microballoons with maybe a bit of glue filler tossed in). But I wouldn't bother at all with that until you've bolted it on and are nearly ready to float. You shouldn't put the AF on until just before you launch anyway.

Rick

[WX]

I was thinking of the AF while the lead is upside down. I guess I was thinking it would be easier...however I shall wait. One less expense for right now anyway. I was thinking of using Micron Extra, I had been thinking along the lines of Cop-A-Bote but it's very expensive.

[skuthorp]

You mean that after all that work your not going to polish it and finish it bright?

[WX]

You mean that after all that work your not going to polish it and finish it bright?

In a word...no. What do fish care, it's going to be covered in antifoul anyway.

[WX]

I need to move the ballast closer to the boat...with minimal brute force because I've tried that it's very slow and hard to do. So while sampling a modest glass of Dalwhinnie I had a thought and I thought to myself, that's a very good plan. It can be done without great artifice as well. Stay tuned.

[johnno]

What channel Gary?

[Rich Jones]

While building a boat many years ago, I moved my 900 lb. lead keel by placing it on short lengths of round closet pole and rolling it along on those.

[GaryK]

Hey Gary, on the subject of primer. The rule for permanently submersed surfaces is to use 2 pack primer. One part primer is for top sides or boats that live on trailers.
I suspect my last boat didn't use 2 pack primer below the WL, because when it came to bottom paint, I would sand the bottom then spend a day or two scraping the peeling antifoul before re coating. Other boats in the yard only needed a quick sanding, re-coat and in the water in no time.. So I suggest if you want an easy time of it in future haul outs, go for 2 pack.

FWIW I use Wattyl Epinamel PR 250, industrial grade primer used on commercial vessels, better & cheaper than that over priced International stuff.

[RFNK]

I need to move the ballast closer to the boat...with minimal brute force because I've tried that it's very slow and hard to do. So while sampling a modest glass of Dalwhinnie I had a thought and I thought to myself, that's a very good plan. It can be done without great artifice as well. Stay tuned.

Pipe rollers are your friend.

Rick

[Larks]

Hey Gary, on the subject of primer. The rule for permanently submersed surfaces is to use 2 pack primer. One part primer is for top sides or boats that live on trailers.
I suspect my last boat didn't use 2 pack primer below the WL, because when it came to bottom paint, I would sand the bottom then spend a day or two scraping the peeling antifoul before re coating. Other boats in the yard only needed a quick sanding, re-coat and in the water in no time.. So I suggest if you want an easy time of it in future haul outs, go for 2 pack.

FWIW I use Wattyl Epinamel PR 250, industrial grade primer used on commercial vessels, better & cheaper than that over priced International stuff.

I assume you are meaning specifically for a glass over ply hull Gary K, I don't think it's quite right in all cases, I was advised by the commercial boat painters where I was working last and the supply reps of the various companies that for below waterline, 2 pack is only for the likes of glass, ally, steel but to use single pack paints on timber vessels as the 2 pack paints won't move with the timber.

[RFNK]

That's certainly the advice I hear too, especially with planked boats. With a plywood boat though, a 2 pack should be okay as you don't get much movement in plywood. Pipsqueak has a single pack Jotun primer and it's worked very well. We've never had AF come off the primer.

Rick

[WX]

Redwing has 4 coats of Evedure epoxy and a two pot undercoat below the water line. Above the WL it's the same plus 4 coats of dark blue satin oil based topcoat.
Now about my idea for moving the ballast closer to the boat. I had mixed results but I didn't have much time to fiddle with it.
Excuse the blurry photo and the mess, it's the maids day off.

This ones a bit better.


My old chainblock is not really up to the task but it did make it easier to slide the ballast. A bit of soap should make it much easier and I am sure I can refine the idea. Pipe rollers as suggested are a good idea and I've used them on a number of occasions.

[GaryK]

I assume you are meaning specifically for a glass over ply hull Gary K, ...

Larks, I was referring to the lead ballast.

[WX]

Any idea on what a 2 litre tin would cost GaryK?

[Larks]

Larks, I was referring to the lead ballast.

Doh, sorry mate, I should have woken up to that........

[GaryK]

Any idea on what a 2 litre tin would cost GaryK?

$38 for 1L. (is actually 1.25L including the hardener)

[WX]

Thanks GaryK, I see if my local paint shop can get it in.
The ballast is now in sight of where it has to go but before I move it further I'll get the bolt holes finished off and the bolts fitted.

[skuthorp]

The H&S man would be horrified Gary!
Good job though.

[WX]

I'm glad I hadn't cut the tree down yet, it really came in handy. yeah the place is a mess but now that spot is a workspace I'll clean it up a bit.

[WX]

The bolt holes are drilled. This was done with a 20mm auger bit and drill I borrowed off Mr Sibley yesterday. It's a slow job and there's very little fun to be had doing it. As soon as it bites you lean back on the drill to prevent the bit from cutting rifling into the lead...remove bit from hole and start again. Keep at it until you bring up wood shavings from the plank underneath. The bolts are 3/4" (19.05mm) but they are still a tight fit and some are just a bit too tight.
This is just a test fit I still have to rebate the nuts and washers into the base.

[WX]

I lubricated the bit with Kero but I'm not sure if it made a difference.

[PeterSibley]

How are you going to cut the nut rebates Gary ? I have a tool here ....which I should have given to you yesterday. It will cut around 1 1/4" countersink .

Do you need it?

and congratulations on a hole well bored, it was simpler than we dreaded !

[johnno]

Great Gary, when's it going on?

[WX]

How are you going to cut the nut rebates Gary ? I have a tool here ....which I should have given to you yesterday. It will cut around 1 1/4" countersink .

Do you need it?

and congratulations on a hole well bored, it was simpler than we dreaded !

Yes please. I do have a forstner bit but you can't free hand those things. I could make a simple jig I suppose.
I'm also wondering if the holes I'm having trouble getting the bolts through might be slightly bowed. Anyway I'm looking forward to seeing the keel timber go on.

[WX]

Great Gary, when's it going on?

might be a few more weeks yet Johnno. I would like to fibreglass the keel before it goes on and I need to save a few $$ first.
I have to put some thought into a cradle as I want that to happen at the same time.

[PeterSibley]

Yes please. I do have a forstner bit but you can't free hand those things. I could make a simple jig I suppose.
I'm also wondering if the holes I'm having trouble getting the bolts through might be slightly bowed. Anyway I'm looking forward to seeing the keel timber go on.

It's basically a very short boring bar , unfortunately the tip that goes into the bolt hole is 1/2" so you'd have to drive a peg in, bore it to 1/2'' then knock it out afterwards.

I'm in town Friday, I know you aren't but it might be worth meeting.

[WX]

I house paint Fridays and if we don't have a few beers afterwards I try to get some time in on the boat.
You're not in town tomorrow or Thursday? I'll be at the Centre.
Off to Brissy bright and early Saturday morning for the big spend.

[PeterSibley]

Home tomorrow and Thursday building the built in draws .Town Friday ... such is life .

[WX]

Home tomorrow and Thursday building the built in draws .Town Friday ... such is life .

I'll see if I can rig up a jig for a forstner bit.

[RFNK]

All I do with forstner bits is take a plank of wood and drill a hole with the bit I want to use on the drill press. Then I just clamp or screw the plank over the spot I want to drill and use the drilled hole as a guide. Works well. You could easily just screw a bit of ply to your lead.

Rick