Redwing update

[WX]

Well, it's taken a little while but I think it's worth it
The v-berth and the mast position now obvious.
Hmm, a bucket all I need now is a seat.
Okay, that should do it.

That's were the lid goes while one is busy. The box will contain sawdust, probably camphor laurel...cause it smells nice


The Dunny door, the round bit is a mirror.

[The Bigfella]

Excellent - so the next EBS is on Redwing?

[WX]

You never know. I am hoping for a launch date around Nov 09.
Would be fun eh?

[Larks]

Great stuff Gary, nicely done. Looking forward to a sail in Nov'.

[GaryK]

Luvly dunny seat.. What timber is that Gary?
I'll have get one of those plumb lines, homemade gerry rig doesn't do.

[WX]

GaryK it's camphor laurel...which is weed here. Beautiful timber though.

[WX]

BTW I modeled the seat on one from a porta potti.
I'm now working on a hatch in the cockpit floor to give me access to the shaft seal and propshaft flange.

[JimD]

Mighty nice looking.

[Duncan Gibbs]

Great stuff Gary!! Keep the pictures coming... Or I'll come around and take some anyway!!

[GaryK]

BTW I modeled the seat on one from a porta potti.
I'm now working on a hatch in the cockpit floor to give me access to the shaft seal and propshaft flange.

You probably discussed this elsewhere, but what diesel did you end up with? Any tips for finding a reasonably priced one?

[JimJ]

camphor laurel.

That should keep things smelling nicely
Jim

[WX]

Gary I have a Yanmar YSE12 hp to put it. It was given to me when a friend re-engined his boat. I can't give you any advice on finding an engine other than keeping you eyes and ears open. If I'm looking for something I will mention it to people, that sometimes brings result. What size engine are you after?

[WX]

A general view looking forward.



BUGGER! A slight mismeasurement...oh well, easily fixed.



The new cockpit engine access hatch. This is to give me access to the shaft seal and propshaft flange. It all looks a bit fiddly and with hindsght it could have been better thought out but...that's life.

[GaryK]

Gary I have a Yanmar YSE12 hp to put it. It was given to me when a friend re-engined his boat. I can't give you any advice on finding an engine other than keeping you eyes and ears open. If I'm looking for something I will mention it to people, that sometimes brings result. What size engine are you after?

Anything small, 10 to 20hp range.

I like the finish on your Hartley. Y'know, Hartley was a design i considered. I know you like Benford dory's a lot, but I don't see Hartley to a Benford as a step up. Hartleys would have more initial stability for one.

[Larks]

Gary, I did a post a while back trying to get an idea of what to ask for a Volvo Penta 2002B 18hp, 'don't know if the thread is of any use to you but may be interesting in terms of what price to expect.

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77294

I haven't sold the engine as I'm still undecided as to whether to or not (I'd like to eventually put in a brand new Yanmar when I'm doing the rebuild) but it's the wrong side of the country for you anyway.

[GaryK]

Gary, I did a post a while back trying to get an idea of what to ask for a Volvo Penta 2002B 18hp, 'don't know if the thread is of any use to you but may be interesting in terms of what price to expect.

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77294

I haven't sold the engine as I'm still undecided as to whether to or not (I'd like to eventually put in a brand new Yanmar when I'm doing the rebuild) but it's the wrong side of the country for you anyway.

Sometimes boats sell for the price of their engine. There was a 29' Hartley sold recently, the seller had installed a new diesel at a cost of $12k, then advertised the boat for $18k. It sold a year later for $13k I believe. Would have been easier to flog it for $1k to start with...

Anyway, I don't really want to spend more that 2k.

[WX]

thought I had something for you Gary but ti was way too expensive.

[WX]

Well it has been a little over three years since I dragged the tarps off the boat and started work on her again. The last few weeks I have been putting in the hours on the galley. I was going to be putting the engine in but as the van has consumed the money I had set aside for that I have had to pick a project that would use what ever I had on site...so the galley was it. I'm not very good at looking at a spot in the boat and designing how I can best use the space. My technique is to start with basic framing and see where it takes me.
I've been taking photos and I'll get some posted here tomorrow night.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Maybe it's a bit late to be mentioning this Gary, but had you thought of putting the forehatch hinges on the forward side of the hatch? Sanderling's were on the after side as yours are, but only because the hatch was immediately forward of the mast and actually using it would have been quite difficult had it opened sternwards. This doesn't look like any sort of a problem in your case, and an aft-opening hatch is generally considered safer.

(For much the same reason, car doors in this day and age are only hinged on the leading edge, whereas in the good old days pre-war the front doors were often hinged on the trailing edge -- which of course played merry hell if the door came open while the vehicle was moving.)

Other than that, it looks you're doing a great job with her. Where are you going to sail her, on Clarrie Hall Dam? (Or Smith's Creek? )

Mike

[rufustr]

I hadn't seen this thread before Gary.

Can you post some more photos of your work.

It's looking great.

[WX]

Mike, I did think of having the hatch hinge forward but as the mast is just forward of the hatch i figured having it hinge aft the best option.
Coastal cruising, Northern NSW and SE QLD for starters....assuming I don't scare myself too badly to start with
Rufus I should some more photos up today.

[WX]

Okay starting with a basic shelf.





This shows the draw in place

[WX]

Now for the benchtop, this is my second one as I broke the first attempt.




Here we have the galley pump and sink in place. In the corner is the locker lid with a cutting board attached. Any ideas on what I can iol it with without contaminating food?

[WX]

Here are a couple of shots of the WC and door.

[hansp77]

In the corner is the locker lid with a cutting board attached. Any ideas on what I can iol it with without contaminating food?

Gary,
I prefer pure tung oil- it is food safe, non browning/reddening and has a nice nutty aroma good to use for chopping boards, wooden bowls, spoons, etc- and is nicely waterproof once you get enough on.
here is a write up of some other food safe stuff.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki....aspx?id=26893
For Tung oil, just make sure you are getting the 'pure' stuff, no driers added or anything else added. (it's obvious, but certainly don't get any of the decking products, sometimes even called pure tung oil, even though they aren't).
Of course, its just a simple wipe on, wipe of, let dry and repeat.
We have a brand made in melbourne sold at a few local Mitre 10's.

btw, nice work!
I don't know too much about your boat, was this a rebuild or a build from scratch?

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
You can also use liquid paraffin. Fauldings make it and it's available in chemists and supermarkets (under "medicinal") everywhere. You can use it neat, but it will need quite a few coats and they'll need repeating reasonably frequently.

It's what the Yanks call "mineral oil" and its one of the several that rate a mention on Hans' link -- particularly in the last para where it's recommended combined with beeswax.

Mike

[WX]

Hans, Redwing is a build from scratch but it's a project that languished under tarps for a bout 15 years. Life sort of got in the way of the dream. One day I'll scan some of the early photos of the building process.
Thanks for the ideas for the cuttingboard.

[hansp77]

No probs,
my vague recollection was that it was a new build, but then I saw what looked to be peeling paint under the galley reminded me of my boat... I'll get around to scraping and painting down there one day
(while yours languished under tarps, mine is currently languishing out on the water)

[JimJ]

In the corner is the locker lid with a cutting board attached. Any ideas on what I can iol it with without contaminating food?

What is the board made from? If it was camphor laurel, you would have a good cutting board and help in getting rid of an introduced pest.

[WX]

The peeling paint is a problem. It's on epoxy and is extremely resistant to being removed cleanly. I really wish I hadn't painted it in the first place. The only thing I haven't tried is paint stripper. I have to wear earmuffs when scraping as the sound puts my teeth on edge:0
I have peeling paint all up under the cockpit as well and that's a bugger of a place to work. There's 3 coats of Everdure epoxy under it so I may just ignore it for now.

[WX]

JimJ, it is Camphor and I used it for that reason. I figured it wouldn't hurt to put some oil on it as well...besides it would bring out the grain

[hansp77]

the peeling paint sounds like a real bugger.
Did you prime it first? or just topcoat? Enamel?

I suppose it would be unwise to use any heat... but I would be tempted to try it... mildly...
I've found carby cleaner can work as a usually unwelcome mild paint stripper... the way it has worked for me (and I imagine a range of solvents might do the same) is that on dodgy paint, rather than actually strip the stuff it just breaks the remianing bond to the surface underneath, softens the paint a bit, and allows it to peel off. I don't know what is actually in carby cleaner- it probably has some sort of stripping agent to disolve the fuel varnish...?

I don't know what real paint stripper does to epoxy- and a quick google hasn't made it any clearer... AFAICT it seems most strippers will or might strip or degrade epoxy, but some won't, or will do it a lot slower. I read a few peole talking about milder strippers to be used for some applications on cars, and some to be used on boats where it will strip the paint but not damage the fiberglass gellcoat (both expensive though).
MIght be worth a bit of testing- or even contacting some of the suppliers and see if they have epoxy safe stripper.


Is there enough epoxy on the surface of the wood to just sand it and re-prime it?

I've found grey 'International Yacht Primer' (for above and below the waterline) to be brilliant. Sticks like nothing else (a good test being how long it takes to get off your skin).

Anyway, bugger of a job, especially on your hands and knees in the bilge- reminds me of what stopped our progress stripping and re-priming the inside of our boat. The thing that makes mine particularly nasty down there, aside from the difficulty accessing it, is all the oil and grease that is coating everything from 1. the carby that used to drip constantly, and 2. the rear output seal on the gearbox that was stuffed... I was amazed at how much topping of oil that gearbox seemed to require, untill I lifted the boards in the bilge and saw it all floating down there

[PeterSibley]

This is WX using Peter's computer...I'm out here to raid some of his Red cedar for trim pieces.
Hans, the main problem is the fiddly bits you can't get a block sander at. As for the bilge, once I've fastened down the aft section of cockpit floor it will be almost impossible to get at. I figure I'll key it all back as best i can and either epoxy over it or paint over it. I prefer epoxy as I can then see if anything nasty is happening underneath. It will be out of the sun so it should hang in well.

[SMARTINSEN]

Mineral oil a.k.a. baby oil--unscented--is food safe and is what I use for wooden chopping blocks and cutting boards.

Nice boat.

[WX]

Baby oil! What amazing stuff. I've used it to refill my compass and now I can use for my chopping board

[WX]

I've spent the last couple of days shaping, sanding and fitting fiddles and trim. The timber is Red Cedar (Toona australis) kindly donated by Peter. Not the cleanest of grain and I had to cramp it all up once dimensioned to stop it twisting all over the place. Luckily it's a soft timber and easy to sand. It doesn't look much yet but in a day or two it will have a coat or 2 of varnish and it's true colour will show through.



Settee berth and backrest shelf fiddles in place.



Galley fiddles and trim in place. It still looks a bit rough but a bit of sanding will fix all that.

[GaryK]

Nice roomy interior for a 25' boat.
Do you have the book: "Boat Joinery and Cabinet Making Simplified" by Fred P. Bingham or do your plans include detailed interior drawings?
At first I thought you had a window on your head door, for perving on guests, but I think its a mirror.

[WX]

Haha, it's a mirror. Actually it's one side out of Kerry's vanity mirror
I have Hartley's two books on boat building, plus I have a few of Lucas's books on fitting out and one by Toghill. The rest I have worked out by myself or though looking at how others have done it. As I have stated before I am hopeless at drawing up detailed drawings on how to utilise a space. My process is to start and see what happens as I go alone. So far I seem to have created something workable....when I hit the water I will know for sure
My technique if you could call it that is to use plywood with epoxy and timber stiffening. At best I will use a lap joint in doing fitout. Biulding the hull and deck I stuckstrictly to the plan...except that I extended the aft doghouse 1ft 9inches further aft and I included a forehatch.
I have since shaped and sanded the Red Cedar fiddles and trim and I'm very pleased with the result. I'll post an update soon.

[WX]

I can't see any of the photos I had here.

Anyway here's some new ones showing Red Cedar fiddles and trim.

[Domesticated_Mr. Know It All]

Gary, are you building the "Red Wing" by Karl Stambaugh?
I've been looking at possibly building one in the future.
Do you have any photos of the hull construction?

[WX]

Hi Kevin, My Redwing is a Hartley 24 Spindrift. Redwing is the name I have given to her.

[PeterSibley]

Lookin' good Gary !

[WX]

I spent a lot of time thinking about how to do this. I needed a maststep that would attach to a partial bulkhead on the No 2 frame and also slot down over the stem piece. I didn't want it going anywhere once it was in and this is what I came up with.

This is the basic design minus mast anchor bolt.


this is with the anchor bolt and forward mounting fitted. The mast slot is slightly over 4" diameter.
I will post a photo of the mast step in situ.

[WX]

The mast step firmly glued and bolted in place.
I've bought some of the timber for the birdsmouth mast, so now it's starting to get interesting.

[GaryK]

Looks nice and stout (as George Buehler would say), Gary.

[WX]

Well....I don't want it to go anywhere it shouldn't
It's been an interesting little project.

[PeterSibley]

Hi gary ...so that's the 1/2' bolt !

[WX]

That's it. It shouldn't lift or twist with that through it. The aft and forward bolt holes have stainless steel sleeves in them to reduce any wear. The stainless tube came from an old towel rack I found in the old shed.

[GaryK]

Gary, what junk sail design have you settled on? Reddish? Hasler preferred?

[WX]

Gary I will be using the Hasler-MacLeod design with 8% camber in each panel.4 parallel panels and 3 top panels. The lower top panel will be sheeted.
There is a problem with the Reddish with the battens getting behind the mast when reefing. I had originally decided to go with the Fenix rig as I like the shape but I was talked out of it. I may have mentioned it before but if you go to the files section of the JR forum and look at Arne's files you will find a goldmine of info on building cambered sails. Camber will improve your windward performance.
How's your Badger going?