Re: 25 ft Hooper Island Draketail construction, Part 2
Draketail ; I would think that halving the width of your vertical stern staving would halve the work , the waste , and the changes in dimension at the finished seams between staves when going through wet/dry cycles . The ones already shaped could still be used , just ripped in half and reinstalled .
Here's a frame bottom detail used by Pete Culler . The radiused ends trap no dirt . If you butt the frame ends to the bottom they will . It'll be harder to shape these after the chine log is in place , if you like the idea . I used the detail on the Culler 24 footer I built (a file bottom but not a draketail ) and there was plenty of meat left for fastening to the chine log .
Later: Got a chance to look at the 25 footer in Sucher . The staves do look narrower than yours , and more tapered . Did they: 1. set a parallel sided stave vertical at the stern centerline. 2. Mark off even divisions on the wider lower hoop from the side of this stave to the plank transition point ( the rear stave being the width of one of these ). 3. lay off the same number of divisions on the smaller upper hoop and taper each plank to fit it's division. ?
Last edited by Bill Perkins; 06-20-2008 at 11:17 AM.
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