More questions from lumberdude....

[lumberdude]

As I'm sanding and sanding and doing more sanding on the little rowboat, my mind wanders on to things I have questions about so I'm just going to throw a bunch out there and see what comes up. First off, I bought a book called "Wooden Boat Renovation" by Jim Trefethen. I just got it and haven't read through very much, but it came highly recommended. It seems to be a good source of information from what I have read.

Now on to some of my questions:
If I end up painting the bottom and sides of the boat, what grit of sandpaper do I step up to? I had to start with 60 grit, in order to remove the rest of the old fiberglass resin. I'm being very careful not to remove much of the cedar.

Next question: Should the primer and finish paint be sprayed on or brushed? I am inclined to brush, simply to stay with the original methods of application, but wouldn't spraying achieve better results?

The sanding and scraping seems to be going well, and with every minute, this project is more and more enjoyable and stress-relieving. This forum makes this hobby seem like a big family affair. I just finished reading some of the posts about NormMessingers beautifully completed sailboat, and I have to say, all of you that make up this board are some of the nicest and most polite people, and helpful, that I've seen in a long time. It is very refreshing.

Okay, I'll quit rambling and get back to sanding.....

lumberdude

[mmd]

I have always thought that well-done spray paint looks especially good when it is done by someone else. I'm so ba-a-a-ad at spraying!

[This message has been edited by mmd (edited 08-12-2001).]

[dasboat]

Lumberdude,I would take her to about 180,then prime and finish sand with 220.It is the primer I would spray.That's because primer is for me,the hadrest part of the job. I can never get a smooth coat.Then,it takes twice the effort to sand the ridges out.If I can't spray,I prime with foam brushes to keep the ridges to a minimum.
I would brush.That's because brushing,well done,leaves a tougher hyde.Paint,wet sand w/220,280,and re coat till your happy with it.
Das

[Bob Cleek]

Double ditto to Dasboat. Lay a good coat of CPES on the bare wood and then spray sanding basecoat. You must cover the surface completely with the undercoat. Your topcoat will NOT cover dark spots. If you spray the undercoat, you won't have to sand three quarters of it off to get it smooth. Expect to do the basecoat at least a couple of times, though. You will need to fill minor imperfections with glazing (surfacing) putty and then sand fair. 220 at least before the finish coat. When she is smooth as a baby's bottom and white as snow all over, only then, get a GOOD brush and put on two or three finish coats. Penetrol added to the finish paint is highly recommended to ensure it lays out flat. Good luck!

[lumberdude]

Once again, the forum has come through with some useful information. I was reading some earlier posts and wanted to repost a website so the newbies(like myself) Can find out all about this CPES stuff.

The website is: http://www.smithandcompany.org/

Now, tell me if I've got this correct: I'm going to sand this thing to around 180 grit, fill any small splits and gouges with the epoxy filler , apply the CPES, spray on the basecoat primer, (a couple of coats), sand the primer smooth with 220 or so, then brush on the finish coat. (2 or 3 coats). How's that? Did I miss anything?

It's great how much you all are teaching me about the restoration process. This forum is fantastic!!

[Concordia41]

Double check with Cleek, but I think you should CPES before you start filling. Also, if you're working in a shed or any kind of enclosure use a respirator with the CPES. It's good for wood, but ultra bad for humans... Even outside, I keep the pot downwind. Hallucinations are nice, but quite counterproductive when you're trying to get something done.

[Bruce Hooke]

Regarding Concordia41's comments -- the same advice regarding respirators would also go for any spray painting. In fact, depending on the situation a helmet with an external air supply pulling from outside the work area might well be called for. That's one of the reasons why I just stick with brushing, and even then I wear a basic respirator if I can't ventilate the area well...