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Thread: portholes - bedding

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Default portholes - bedding

    Some time ago I passed to the dark side (fiberglass, or fibreglass for you lymies), and purchased a purty C&C 24 - - many years ago I owned one of these on the severn, and used to commute to work with it. The one I now have has some trouble I never remember my old dear having. Her portholes are merely suggestive, and let the light in poorly, and the water in freely (which is what I believe portholes are designed to do, but noetheless...). So I want to bed them down with some 3200 for the season, but had designs on throughbolting both sides when time avails. Does anyone have any experience with this kind of thing?

    Also, I need to replace the running rigging, and any thoughts on doing this satisfactorily without running me up a pole would be greatly appreciated.

    Knockabout

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default Re: portholes - bedding

    Bed the portlights properly with a compound made for the purpose. You can save a lot using goop made for installing fibreglass tub and shower enclosures. You should be able to find tubes in any home improvement store.

    Come on... you must be a better problem solver that it appears! If you want run new running rigging without going up the stick, just attach the bitter end of the old stuff to the running end of the new stuff and pull it through! (It helps to fasten the line end to end with a sewn whipping so it runs through the blocks and over the sheaves without hanging up. Obviously, a sheet bend won't suffice.)

  3. #3
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    Apr 2006
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    Default Re: portholes - bedding

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cleek View Post
    Bed the portlights properly with a compound made for the purpose. You can save a lot using goop made for installing fibreglass tub and shower enclosures. You should be able to find tubes in any home improvement store.

    Come on... you must be a better problem solver that it appears! If you want run new running rigging without going up the stick, just attach the bitter end of the old stuff to the running end of the new stuff and pull it through! (It helps to fasten the line end to end with a sewn whipping so it runs through the blocks and over the sheaves without hanging up. Obviously, a sheet bend won't suffice.)
    Ive run a messenger line before, and was bewildered at the great "Hunh?" of how a stitched halyard never made it through - - gremlins I suppose, blocking the sheave... I will try both a stitched halyard to bite, as well as halyard to messenger to bite should the former not work. Thank you Bob, you are as always an invaluable treasure of resource and cunning.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: portholes - bedding

    Messenger line? ... a mouse.

    Butt the mouse to the halyard then stitch them together. Don't overlap and whip like I see some doing ... and then loosing both because the join is too rigid to fit a sheave or through an exit block.

    Warren.
    Last edited by Wild Wassa; 04-17-2008 at 01:27 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: portholes - bedding

    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Wassa View Post
    Messenger line? ... a mouse.

    Butt the mouse to the halyard then stitch them together. Don't overlap and whip like I see some doing ... and then loosing both because the join is too rigid to fit a sheave or through an exit block.

    Warren.
    This I will do. But I cannot call a messenger line a mouse, that is just too silly even for sillysailorspeak.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: portholes - bedding

    A mouse can fit through the smallest of holes.

    Warren.

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