How easy is it to repair clinker ply

[Rational Root]

From what I have read, the planks in clinker ply are epoxied together.

There's no real movement to allow for, so this gives a strong watertight hull. So Far So Good.

So the question then is How difficult is it to repair an epoxied clinker ply hull in the event of damage - not that I personally would ever play chicken with a rock.


I am working on a Glen L 14 now, but in the future I am thinking of Eun Na Mara. This would be a more considerable investment of time, effort, and paper folding stuff, so I'm curious about what happens if I need to repair it.

You know, fix a broken plank when a rock leaps out in front of me. That sort of think. (I am assuming that I don't sink and drown, and that I am around to be concerned about fixing the thing )

[JimD]

Cut the broken bit out and patch in a new bit.

[Rational Root]

That't the bit I was worried about.

If the broken plank is epoxied above and below to good planks, then cutting it out is no longer trivial.

Would I melt and cut along the epoxy?

Or take a bit out of the plank above and below and then scarf a repair onto each of the three planks - removing the need to try to separate an epoxy joint?

D

Cut the broken bit out and patch in a new bit.

[Bob Smalser]

It's no big deal. Saw, feather, glue and fair. This is a plywood sheer strake meeting a transom also cut down because of rot, but the methods apply anywhere in the hull. Notice I've sawn through the epoxy at the lap and faired the bevel using a rasp. Repair each plank separately.

[hikingchrs]

you would not need to mess with the laps unless the laps are damaged. just cut out the damage make the edges look like scarfs, 7:1 for plywood make a plug ot with and glue it in. sounds easy. edited to add look at Bobs post above.
Chris

[Rational Root]

Bob, if you ever decide to open a school for boat building, Ireland would be a great location (hint hint )

Many thanks,
It was your threads about the repairability of Titebond that set me thinking along these lines.

Dave

[quote=Bob Smalser;1798422]It's no big deal. Saw, feather, glue and fair. This is a plywood sheer strake meeting a transom also cut down because of rot, but the methods apply anywhere in the hull. Notice I've sawn through the epoxy at the lap and faired the bevel using a rasp. Repair each plank separately.]

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

My experience is confined to patching my own tender, which leads a fairly hard life, but I find the repairs come in two types:

1. Something has poked a hole in it.

2. A patch of rot has occurred.

In both cases a feathered patch seems to do the job.

The more "fun" case occurs where the repair is in way of a built in buoyancy tank. I've done these by cutting back, fairing, and gluing in a patch inside the tank, held in place by a strongback and a spanish windlass, then gluing a second piece, bevelled t'other way round, held down with wedges - same strongback does for both.