Request info on source of rope gunwale guard

[Walt Hodges]

At least that is what I think it is named. First, let me thank everyone for this great forum. I have gained many ideas and have answered many of my questions from reading your execllent posts.

Please bear with me as I direct you to view what I am trying to obtain or better yet - build myself.

On the Wooden Boat main page: click on "Free Issue - Click" Once this page opens, click on "Pages" (top of the menu bar). Once the rows and columns of thumbnails appears, please locate: Five rows from the bottom, and three rows from the left, Under the heading "Boatbulders" there is an advertisement for "jlyachting.com"

The tender in the left panel has what I am referring to as the "rope gunwale guard". Please correct my naming of this as I can't find any source of this type of rope guard.

The main questions: what is the correct name, and how to obtain. Or better yet: location of instructions to build for myself.

I sincerely appreciate your assistance in helping me with my request.

Walt Hodges

[Bob Cleek]

Sorry I didn't go looking at the picture you referenced, trusting myself to know what you meant by a rope gunnel guard. This is a simple, but sometimes tricky device. Make up a length of rope with eye splices in each end, just a bit short of the circumferance of the boat at the gunnel. Lash the eye splices together at the transom, so the rope is tight around the gunnel. Usually, there is a groove worked in the rubrail to hold the rope. Also, small holes are drilled to accommodate lashings to hold the rope to the rail, these being worked into the cunt so they won't stand proud and chafe. (Yes, that's the proper term for the groove between the lay of a piece of rope.)

[hoz]

uuh,uh,uh, so that's where it came from.
[img]tongue.gif[/img]

I always learn something new around here.

[Bruce Hooke]

Cleek's method is certainly one traditional approach to the problem. I found the picture in question (it is on page 120 -- if that helps other people find it), and it looks like they used a somewhat different approach. More pictures are available on JL Yachtings website http://www.jlyachting.com/ but be prepared for a wait if you have a dial up connection. Once the site loads click on the "Tender" link at the top of the page.

It does not look like the worked a groove into the gunwale to hold the rope (or maybe there is just a very small grove), so maybe they just tied it to the gunwale as Cleek described. I'm not sure how they made what look to be brass ends at the bow and stern, and I am also not sure what the "bumps" are that look like they might be leather wraps. The brass ends strike me as not the greatest idea from a practical perspective since this is supposed to be a fender, however it is true that both brass ends are in places where it would be fairly hard to bring them into contact with another boat's hull.

[mmd]

A builder I know fits rope gunwale bumpers by preparing a groove in the gunwale to receive the rope, then (beginning at the bow) he opens the lay of the rope and, under tension, places a screw on a fender washer through the inner strand of the rope into the gunwale. He then twists the rope back into its original lay, thereby covering the screw and washer from sight and all possible contact with the mothership topsides. Screws are placed about every 6 - 12 inches, depending on the size of the rope. It looks good and doesn't sag after wearing a while. He carries the ends around to the transom, where the ends are whipped then covered in leather which is tacked to the transom with decorative bronze tacks.

[Thorne]

I think Oughtred's book on ply lapstrake building has several options for building a rope guard.

Really, a lot depends on the construction of your current gunwale and rub guard/rail -- can you post pics of same, possibly along with the rope you intend to attach (if you've bought it already)?

[ 03-02-2006, 08:12 PM: Message edited by: Thorne ]

[pipefitter]

Another way to do it is to use 2 runs of white oak ¼ round with the gap between that which is the diameter of the rope. The oak should be ½ as deep as the rope diameter which allows the rope to stand proud of the wood.One advantage to this system is that if the rubrail is compromised it is much easier to replace the trim than it would be to repair damage to the actual gunwhale.

The rubber rub rail with the rope insert is ok but can be tricky forming the corners and if it isn't metal reinforced can show puckers where the screws are.

[ 03-02-2006, 09:14 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[paladin]

and try to use cotton rope..if you can find it....nylon scratches the topsides....