Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Two dumb questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Posts
    176

    Post

    1) I'm looking to paint the cockpit of my 20' daysailer and am looking for recommendations. The cockpit is constructed from Okume and has been rough sanded and the gross sections faired with thickened WEST. I'm going to continue to fair but am wondering if there is a point where this makes no sense given that I'm looking to paint the cockpit white. I'd like to brush on the paint and would prefer a filling primer that would fill in some of the nicks. Any suggestions? What about no-slip surfaces?

    2)I'm looking to add a "rub rail" at the shear line intersection between the hull and the deck. What the heck are these things called anyway? Any suggestions on a species of wood that would fit the bill well for this spot on the boat.

    Thanks...

    Dave

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Bangor, ME
    Posts
    24,445

    Post

    Dave,

    "Rubrail" is fine. Outwhale... at the gunwhale?

    The painting, and how smooth to get it, is both a matter of taste and how glossy the paint you choose. Flatter=less smoothing neccessary. See the current WB about paint selection.

    Some anti-skid on the cockpit floor would be good, but not on the sides. Bare legs and all.

    Best,

    Jack
    So many questions, so little time.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Quadra Island,B.C.
    Posts
    236

    Post

    Re slippery floors you might want to read a lengthy discussion under the heading "slippery floor in an open boat" in this, the building and repair section. This started in November and the last post was December 22nd.'02. Hope that will help you in your decision making. Dirk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Guilford Ct
    Posts
    47,247

    Post

    I still say golf cleats are the best way to avoid slipping onboard.... Less expensive than paint too I bet....
    Never trust a man with a clean workshop.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    19,028

    Post

    Go for a satin or semi gloss, and pick a non skid from one of the leading paint companies. Either that or add some walnut shells in a standard enamel.. not tooooo much tho.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 1999
    Location
    Left Coast
    Posts
    6,153

    Post

    PMJ, that is ***crushed Walnut Shells***, eh?
    "Lord, grant that I may always desire more than I can accomplish"
    Michelangelo

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Bangor, ME
    Posts
    24,445

    Post

    Ohh...so ya have crush them first. I wondered why they were darned hard on the feet.
    So many questions, so little time.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1999
    Location
    Left Coast
    Posts
    6,153

    Post

    Jack, LOL>>>>>
    "Lord, grant that I may always desire more than I can accomplish"
    Michelangelo

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Beachport, South Australia
    Posts
    1,821

    Post

    Use whole walnuts.... emergency rations and all that old chap!
    Bald, ugly, not too bright but incredibly sexy in an unattractive sort of way....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    ..
    Posts
    1,243

    Cool

    I like to coat my decks with popcorn mixed in with a base of a thick latex enamel- and no you dont pop the corn.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin USA
    Posts
    12

    Post

    I understand there is such a thing as "ground rubber" that you can broadcast over the fresh, wet surface for traction, which might be a little kinder than sand or walnuts.. I haven't tried it, has anyone else? Regards, David Usitalo

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    South Charleston, WV, USA
    Posts
    57

    Post

    Exceptional paint for use over epoxy is System Three's LPU paint with crosslinkers. Check them out on their website. Expensive stuff though, $95 a gallon. But, it bonds to the resin well. You can get 12 standard colors (white being one of them) and you can mix in non-skid. I have found the System Three tech help people excellent.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    2,360

    Post

    .
    Well, the paint question seems to have been dealt with pretty well.

    As for the "rub-rail," that's what Americans generally seem to call them. More correctly, they're called rubbing-strakes.

    There's a difference of opinion on the timber. Some prefer a softwood as it absorbs shock better than hardwoods. Others prefer hardwood on the basis that it doesn't show up the dings as much. I favour hardwood myself for that reason, but either way I think it's good to consider a rubbing-strake as being sacrificial eventually.
    .

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Guilford Ct
    Posts
    47,247

    Post

    For the rubrail..... I prefer old bandsaw blades welded together to form a kind of giant "rasp". It keeps other boats from getting too close to you, and it actually helps a lot when some "Yachty" yells "STARBOARD", on a port tack. He then notices your rubrails, and makes bouy room for you, no matter what.....
    Never trust a man with a clean workshop.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •