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Thread: Applying Interlux seam compound

  1. #1
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    Default Applying Interlux seam compound

    That's today's chore (at least getting a start on it). If anyone has any helpful hints or suggestions, I'll check the thread from the warehouse.

    Thanks!

    - M

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Above or below waterline?

    Below water, I mix it 50-50 with roofing tar, load the mix into a grease gun and inject the bead before smoothing with a putty knife. Far more efficient than dabbing with knife alone.

    The above water caulk does not get mixed and does not go well in a gun, so there's nothing to it but pull a thin bit off your pallet (not out of the can) along the edge of your putty knife, lay it over the seam, and work up and down to force it in. Then a pull along the seam to flatten and a low-angle chisel approach with the putty knife to skin the excess off the planks on either side of the seam.

    G'luck

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Thanks Ian, it's below the water line.

    Just came home to let the dog out, I'll swing by HD for caulking tubes and get at it.

    - M

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    If your seam compound is of gun consistancy, a length of copper water pipe with one end ground off to 45 deg and a long matching dowel for a plunger will allow you to force the compoung into the seams. The length of the tube also allows for more leverage as the material is forced in. Fill tube by laying a glop of compound on a pallet and forcing the tube down into it from the angled end. Watch the dowel as it will indicate when the tube is full. This method is easier and cheaper than buying a lot of gun tubes and having the compound drool down your wrist.
    Jay

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    For a pallet: a foot square - or smaller - chunk of plywood, screw it to a handle protruding perpendicularly from the center. Called a hawks nest, it saves your wrists.
    Hey! It's MY Hughniverse!

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Good idea on the pallet. I've always used a board with a hole at one corner, like an artist's, as it's easy to set down but the handle could be easier to hold. I may try it next spring.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Is the tar mix common? I think freshwater boat restoration must be very different. I would never think of using tar as a caulking substance for a yacht. Seam compound, a good quality underwater polysulfide, are just about the only thing I have ever used.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    The underwater (brown) is really different from the topsides (white). It covers the caulking and gets squeezed as the planks swell in the spring. To let the squeeze out work better and for ease of application, it's nice to mix it.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    I was so anxious to get the drape back over the boat and water her down that I didn't get pictures, but will tomorrow.

    We (I and two members of the cavalry that rode in about 4pm) have the starboard side done.

    FWIW here are my observations:

    I seriously under ordered seam compound. I don't know where I got the idea - maybe I just winged it, but I had two quarts on hand.

    I don't know what today is, Wednesday?

    If so, I started Tuesday afternoon and went through greater than 1/2 can doing about 5' from the stem aft. As this stuff is in the hazardous category, there is no getting it FedEx'd.

    This was about 2 pm Tuesday and production immediately halted while I placed multiple calls to local marinas, chandleries, etc.

    An angel of a guy at West Marine located one quart at a Jacksonville store, but because of the hazardous crap, could not ship inter-store. St. Augustine Marine could get me 4 cans (my estimate of shortage) by noon Thursday

    Geeze - of all the things to under order.... at myself...
    I drove to Jacksonville this morning and got the third can, and miraculously the others promised for Thursday came in also. So we have enough material now....

    The angels whatching over me must have really tired wings....

    So, I've got two cans from Jamestown, one can - rusted top no less - from West Marine, and the four cans the folks at St. Augustine Marine pulled out of thin air.

    This is important because there is a fast difference in the product from the three lots. I don't even think age has anything to do with it as the rusted can is fine. The Jamestown one I opened had a little something swimming on top - linseed oil maybe? Anyway, when mixed in, it went into caulking tubes without incident.

    About my third caulk tube (three tubes per quart) it seemed like it was drying out - although I religiously tap the top back on the can.

    The can clearly says "Do Not Thin", but I added about a tablespoon of mineral spirits to it, and that got it back up to putty texture.

    The West can was also fine - not so much liquid on top - a few drops vs. a tablespoon on the others, but it stirred and behaved well. Really thick peanut butter is the best comparison I can give.

    The product that SAM got for me though - brand new, still in original Interlux case box - is the consistency of QuickCrete setting up. That took major thinning and if mineral spirits are a bad thing, I've really got a problem as it took probably a 1/4 cup to get a quart workable.

    It wasn't just about the caulking gun, it was so dry it would pull right out of the seams and in some cases freaking fell out.

    We used a caulking gun & West Epoxy brand tubes, which are advertised as reusable and which are if you are careful. We used the caulking gun to efficiently get a bead of caulk into the seam and then someone (sometimes a combination of me, myself or I) would work the putting into the seam with a putty knife - just to be sure it was in good.

    Then as it started to dry I came across the seam edges scraping off the excess with a putty knife and followed with a little mineral spirits on my gloved finger to smooth the seam and then cleaned off any excess left on the planks with mineral spirits on a rag.

    Counting the learning curve and a good 2 hours screwing with the overly hard putty, I have 18 man hours in the starboard side. That doesn't count the drive to Jacksonville....

    Edited to add that now that Jose and Arnold have it down and we've got the consistancy thing licked, I'd expect about 10 hours to finish the starboard side...
    Last edited by Concordia...41; 10-25-2007 at 04:53 AM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Big boat....

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Here's a picture from Tuesday afternoon


  12. #12
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Looking good.

    Mixing with roofing tar also delays any tendency to set for about forever. Very easy.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Do Concordias have a caulking bevel? Seems I heard they were made tight seam?

    'Course, time changes things on a boat......

    I was reminded of this when I added up all the quarts of seam compound in your post.

    Good luck, Margo, Wish I could be there to join the fun!
    Hey! It's MY Hughniverse!

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Seems like you're using a lot. There is cotton caulking rope under there, right?

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Applying Interlux seam compound

    Yes as to cotton. I'll probably use 4-5 quarts less wastage. Two quarts per side for sure.

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