First time post, Hello to all, I just purchased a 1947 Harkers Island Boat 22' Crabing/Shrimp Boat and I need to strip the last 58 years worth of paint off her. Can anyone tell me the best method. I was going to start with a power washer than some type of stripper... Any info or advise would be great.
Greg
Member #1938
A heat gun and a good pull-type scraper.
Very nice boat!
<img src= "http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid181/pda4d552a0abea3be69a0182f92bacd86/f2cd1965.jpg">
[ 08-16-2005, 08:07 AM: Message edited by: Donn ]
I'm going to take some digital Pic's this weekend and I'll post a few as soon as I can.
Thanks
A Heat gun if not brought too close won't damage the wood?
That you Mlke?
Member #1938
Nope."A Heat gun if not brought too close won't damage the wood?"
Senior Member
Heat Gun/Scraper - Yes, that is the way to go. Couple of suggestions: (1) get a GOOD heat gun with at least a 2 speed/heat setting(s) and different nozzel attachments. *You will be happy that you spent a little extra money on it. (2) you can get pretty good pull scrapers with wide carbide blades (get some extra blades) at Home Depot or Lowes or other hardware places. Around $10.00 or so. (3) Also, be careful when heating/scraping that old paint. It could contain noxious chemicals that you could breath in. Be safe an wear a good quality chemical respirator (3M sells some good ones for around $30.00 for the face respirator and chemical cartridges).
A boat builder named Stacy Guthrie from Harkers Island Built her in 1947 for a gent named Clarence Evan Willis. He Crabbed with her until 1967 sold her to a gent named George Pitman still in Harkers Island who shrimped with her, Than a Gent named Craig Guthrie relative of Stacy bought her and used her as a family boat until 1991, David Hays bought her and
took her up here to Connecticut put about 2000 miles on her up and down the east coast then donated her to a local Maritime Education School Where I saw her fell in LOVE and brought her home...
Too Young to be a Senior
Avoid the power washer. If you're not careful it will heavily damage the wood. Try walnut shell through a sandblaster. Takes several layers of paint off in seconds. Just use a light hand.
Why?
The boat in the 1970's was converted from a inboard to a outboard well. I don't have a motor yet but will be looking for about a 50hp over the winter.
The hull and decking has many layers of paint that is flaking off everywhere. I would really like strip her down maybe not all but enough to get her smooth. Pictures will be here this weekend.
No Mike I'm Greg
The more and more I think about it I think your right and that is exactly the way I'm going to start and see how I make out. If I need to take it a step further I will but untill then sand sand sand....The name of the boat is going to be "Eighty Grit" ........
I really hate fiberglassing anything on this old girl. Do you know where I can find any type of plans for what your talking about?
I have used DA's and grinders but only when I did auto body work for a few years. A DA might work well or a board sander to keep her straight.
I need to post some pictures but the windsheild is coming off it is a short piece of lexan tapered and only about 8-10 inches now.
I'm at work now mike but will be home in a few hours. I will measure up what i have send some pictures and than I would love you to get you ideas.
[ 08-13-2005, 08:16 AM: Message edited by: 1947workboat ]
Chief Adm!n.
8:40 AM on Sunday.... And STILL no pics?!
Senior Member
Greg; here are some good ol’ details from Harry Sucher , which could be a start . He traveled to the Chesapeake and elsewhere to take off the lines of practical work boats ,about the same vintage as yours. Like Mike ( one of the forums experienced pros ) he urged that the superstructure of boats with light displacement and modest beam be kept especially light , and that plywood be used for this part of construction at least . His typical recommended scantlings are ¼ in. to 3/8th in. ply for cabin sides over a 2 by 2 framework of Fir or Oak . !/4 in. ply for roofs over ¾ by 2 ½ in. beams .These last would be Spruce I would think (can only read the drawing's notations with a magnifying glass in the book , and not everything is spelled out ).Scaling these structures down for a 22 footer , it looks like there would not be standing headroom at the steering station .
Here's a contemporary pro buildout on a 24 footer of modest beam .
Right click, then left click on "refreash page with full quality " improves the quality of the line drawings .
[ 08-14-2005, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]
I tried to get the PIC's on here Saturday night???? How do I do it????
Bill that is just what I want to do. What is the name of that book or where did you get that on the Web?
Member #1938
Look in the B&R FAQ, of course. Everything is in there!
Originally posted by NormMessinger:
Or, put another way:
Instructions for posting pictures
Photo to be posted must be on the web and in a site that allows cross posting. Many Forum users use www.imagestation.com . This is a free site which seems to have unlimited storage, large picture size, and unlimited albums.
Upload your pictures to ImageStation and create your albums or leave the pics in the in box as you wish.
Pictures in ImageStation are displayed in three sizes: thumbnail, display and original. Left click on the thumbnail brings up the display photo, about 640 bits X 400 or so. A left click on the display photo brings up the photo in the original size you uploaded. Forget this one, except in rare cases which I cannot explain it cannot be cross linked. So....
Left click on the thumbnail to show the display version.
Right click on this picture.
Left click "Properties".
Highlight the Address [URL] and copy it (Ctrl/C).
Now go to The Forum and prepare your new message.
Write what you want as a preamble to your picture, then:
Below the message area is a button, "IMAGE". Left click it.
Paste the URL you copied above into the block displayed.
Note that the block contains http already highlighted. Just paste without doing any thing else so you don't get http twice.
Add what ever additional text you wish to add after the URL of the picture is displayed.
Click on the "Preview Post" button to confirm that what you want us to see will appear, then close the window.
Click the "Add Reply" button and standby for responses.
Thanks I'll give it a try tonight
Senior Member
Greg ; the book is Simplified Boatbuilding , the v bottom boat , by Harry Sucher .ABE Books has got it .The lines for the first boat I showed are available from the Smithsonian at a scale of 1/2 in. to the foot .Otherwise ; I'd blow up a drawing from my post that you like till the boat in question measures 22 feet at a scale of 1 in. to the foot ,scale the dimensions of the superstructure and mock it up on your boat .
Thanks Bill I really like the third pic down that's just about what i'm looking for...Nothing to fancy. I'll check out that book...
Here She IS......
<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid181/p12ca07a59bdc61204fd5350321c6a781/f2cd19fd.jpg" target="_blank">1947 Harkers Island 1
boat 2 </a> http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...0/f2cd18c5.jpg
Heres One More
Side View of Boat
Member
Great looking boat.
Do you expect to be out in cold weather with her?
I'm looking for a place to put her in side along the shorline in CT in the old lyme area now...If not I was going to build a hoop shed and work on her in the yard. About my only choice......
Senior Member
It looks like you could add a hardtop steering station to the back of the cabin trunk you've got .
Bill that's exactly what I would like to do. The fourth pic up on the drawings you sent is the look I would like.
[ 08-16-2005, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: 1947workboat ]
The top will be the last thing I do but a light wait hard top out of wood I think will look the best. I have a lot of work to do. Today I need to remove two of the ribs and replace them and start stripping the paint. There's just something about a canvas top that to me won't fit. If anyone has any pictures of a top on a boat like her please send along.....
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