Sarah had a rub rail added over her cove stripe, but the paint is coming out so well (so far) that I was thinking of treating the Pretty Girl to gold leaf on the star, moon, and about 14" of cove stripe that is not obscured by the rub rail.
I found these two amazing posts in the archives:
Metallic paints don't last too long, either. They dull pretty quickly.
If you're going to paint the stripe, you'll be wanting a "striping quill "-- it's a special type of camel- or squirrel-hair brush, especially for pinstriping. The bristles are about 2 inches long and the quills come in different sizes, depending on the width of stripe you want to lay down. The handles are typically quite short (a couple of inches) to facilitate rolling the brush as needed. If you want a longer handle, you'll need to haft it yourself. Here's a source for striping quills: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...&keyword=37061
But they should be fairly easy to find at sign painter supply stores, auto body supply stores, etc.
If you paint it and want to mask the stripe, use 3M's Fine Line masking tape -- it's expensive, but properly burnished, you should get a really crisp edge with little to no bleed and very little tear-out when you remove it.
You might think about gilding, though...
Gold leaf isn't that expensive -- a book of 23k patent leaf will run about $40 or so, depending on the price of gold, of course. Gold leaf comes in two flavors, plain leaf and "patent" leaf. Patent leaf has a paper backing on each sheet so handling is much facilitated.
With plain leaf, you'll need a gilder's pad, knife and brush to cut and pick up the leaf. And you'll need a very still environment -- the sheets of gold are so thin that the lightest air currents will pick them up.
The paper backing on patent leaf simplifies this considerably and makes outdoors gilding much easier. For doing things like cove stripes, you can buy "ribbon leaf" as well -- it's basically a roll of leaf on a paper backing. Each leaf overlaps the previous by a half inch or so. A little rummaging around the web sez that you can buy a roll of 23k ribbon leaf, 1/2 inch wide x something like 70 feet long (21 meters) for about $70 or so.
Avoid imitation leaf as it will corrode quickly. Gold leaf will last longer than the paint.
You should be able to get gold leaf from a number of sources: sign painter's supply shops, art stores. You can order it from -- among other places -- Sepp Leaf http://www.seppleaf.com/ in New York City. Sepp is one of the big distributors of leaf, so their prices tend to be better than a retail store.
A sign guy ought to be able to gild your stripe in just a couple of hours.
Oil gilding is pretty straight forward:
0. Prime the ground with yellow or red enamel. Yellow will help mask any holidays in the leaf; red will enhance the color and help show any holidays in the leaf.
1. Apply gold size (special very slow-drying varnish). Let it tack.
2. When it reaches the correct tack (typically 12 hours or so for slow size), you apply your leaf. Using patent leaf, lay it metal side down (obviously) and lightly burnish it with a cotton ball.
3. Peel off the paper backing
4. Burnish it lightly again with a cotton ball.
5. Let it dry.
6. Sweep off excess leaf with a soft paintbrush. The leaf should only stick to the size, so removal of excess leaf is pretty simple.
7. If you like, it's a tasty detail to outline the gilding with a pinstripe of suitable contrasting color.
That contrasting border comes in handy at repainting time. The gilding will last longer than the paint (and it protects the underlying ground from UV damage). At painting time, you can mask off the gilding (don't put tape or adhesive on the gold!). Remove the masking, and repaint/touchup the border and Bob's yer uncle.
Also, with genuine gold leaf, don't put varnish over it. The varnish will yellow and get UV damage and you'll have to strip the leaf off and re-gild.
Avoid imitation leaf. Stick to 23 or 24 karat leaf and you should have a cove stripe that will last a long, long time.
One thing with gold leaf: choice of leaf. There's German-made leaf and Italian leaf. Some people like German leaf; others like Italian. Different manufacturer's and different types of leaf have differing colors. For a cove stripe, you probably want "double leaf" as it's about 20% thicker than standard leaf.
I just noticed that peal paint has some good deals on leaf: http://www.pearlpaint.com/shop~ocID~4999~parentID~4998~categoryID~4997.htm
I offer this as my first Shutterfly test and to see if anyone has anything to add to the above in regard to gold leafing the star:To qualify what I am about to say. This is not a commercial: My company specializes in ship carving, signage and hand lettering of transoms among other things involved with boats and boating.
Our own approach to doing a cove stripe is to first sand and prime the cove with Yellow tinted primer using a sign writer's quill. Once the primer is dry, sanded with 220, dusted and tacked. The coved plank is dusted with a pounce bag of talc. This is to prevent gold from sticking where it is not wanted. The cove itself is then, carefully retacked with one finger on the rag running only in the cove. 24hour, slow dry, yellow tinted gold size is layed into the cove using a sign writers quill brush that is the width of the cove. This is not as hard as it sounds. The brush is guided by the cove and fingers are braced against the plank to drag the brush. The work is then left to dry to a light tack. Too wet and it will smear the gold. So let it go for over night if the stripe is layed on in the afternoon. Next day, lay on "rolled gold" this is usually 23k lemon lemon gold and, comes in continuous rolls. We get ours from "Art Essentials" of N.Y. Ltd.
As the gold rolls out it is gently tapped and rubbed in with a finger on the paper backing. Any voids are tapped in using fresh gold on the backing paper or with a gilders tip using shell gold "loose gold scrap" that has been saved from a previous job. Let the cove dry overnight again. Next A.M. go over it by tapping lightly on the raw gold with a finger tip. Then go over the stripe using a soft 3/4" Gray Hound sign writer's brush to remove any loose or ragged gold flakes. Finally, once the surface is really dry, burnish the gold lightly with a cotton ball. Should any gold stick to the planking it can be removed with a light rub using a finger tip, tee shirt and a bit of Bon Ami. This method will produce good results if done with patience and no hurry. For a thirty foot cove on each side of a hull the labor in hours is about six to eight in real time. Materials will run at current market value. A cover done in this manner should last many years.
Or you can lay in a stripe of gold colored tape. Admittedly tacky but it serves a need.
And when I was looking for some aft quarter pictures to illustrate the moon, I came across this beauty
Which makes me question the whole leafing thing. It is hard to believe, but some I have seen with the gold leaf on the cove stripe were as striking, and Sarah - being the wild child of the bunch - has a varnished transom.
Comments and suggestions are appreciated.
- Margo & Sarah