Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: graymarine Sea Scout IV

  1. #1

    Default

    I am looking for a dealer with parts for the above model. I am located in Atlantic Canada, so anywhere on the eastern seaboard preferably. I don't know anything about this engine, not even the year or horsepower. It is in a 1952 30' Stadle Schooner that was built in Marblehead Mass.(currently under restoration) Does anyone know where I can find a repair manual for this engine? Thanks in advance. Was this a good engine, reliable and durable?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    ludlow, Mass.
    Posts
    8

    Default

    In reply to your request I have a 1942 Graymarine 6-90 and found a very good dealer in North Tonawanda ,NY. Duby Marine .1-716-694-0922 fax 1-716-694-0976 ask for John He's the owner and very pleasant to deal with. They can do anything parts to complete rebuild. Good luck

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    NWly shores of Lake Whitehall, MA
    Posts
    7,208

    Default

    In the back of our sponsor's magazine -

    Duby Marine, 254 Sweeney St. N Tonawanda, NY 14120 Ph: 716 694 0922

    Van Ness Eng 252 Lincoln Ave. Ridgewood, NJ 07450 Ph 201 445 8685

    My only marine experience (essentially) is with a Gray (~15 years), and, with one famous exception or two, it always ran like a clock.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Wisconsin--Lake Michigan, where the water tastes funny
    Posts
    1,135

    Default

    I have dealt with both dealers mentioned above: Duby Auto & Marine and Van Ness Engineering. Both are very accommodating and knowledgable, and seem to have any part you could ask for. Photostat copies of the old manuals are available--these dealers should be able to tell you where to send for them. The Graymarine company is still operating in Oshkosh, WI, but Duby and Van Ness are more accessible for you. My 1947 Hinckley Sou'wester 34 has a 1946 Graymarine 25 HP Sea Scout Lugger 4-91. As far as I know it has had only one partial overhaul, a "top job" of valve grinding and removing the carbon from the head, in about 1970. It's still running fine, with only occasional peripheral repairs.

  5. #5
    Dale Harvey Guest

    Default

    Three potentially serious problems with this engine. Alcohol in the new gas will eat up the old diaphrams in the fuel pump, allowing gas into the engine base. It will also eat up any old flexible fuel lines, even some of the metalclad rubber ones. If the needle valve on the carburator has one of the rubber tipped needles, it will also go, allowing gas to poor out the carb. Older needles will be all metal, new ones MAY be alcohol resisent. The suppliers mentioned should have solutions to these problems. Clean the fuel tanks and install suitable Racor brand filter unit. The one with the superfine filter is the only one that will actually keep the crud from old tanks out of the jets. I think its .02 micron. Use fuel stabilizer religiously. Check the waterjacketed exhaust line closely, and seriousely consider a modern waterlift muffler. These mufflers have specific installation requirement to work properly, so get one with good instructions. Also consider adding an off engine oil filter assembly. With fresh water for cooling, this engine should outlast the boat.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    NWly shores of Lake Whitehall, MA
    Posts
    7,208

    Default

    "eat up the old diaphrams in the fuel pump, allowing gas into the engine base." LOL, that's one! (Tho in our case I suspect it was more old age than alchohol that was the cause.)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •