Plank Question

[chuckm]

After I placed the First Plank the following Plank did not quite have the surface area to glue to the previous even after I notched the Rib. So in order to glue it well, I beveled the edge that layed on the prior plank to give me sufficient surface area to glue. As I move along, the Planks are laying flatter and I no longer have to bevel them and this is causing a difference in the plank edge that lies on each previous plank. I have attached a pic to show this. My question is this common? I realize that this will be below the water line but just want to be assured that I am not doing anything wrong

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[Brent Cummings]

If I'm understanding right, yes you need to bevel the edge of each previous plank. Not sure why you have to notch the ribs though.

[chuckm]

It's in the design, what I was worried about is that plank # 4 , which lays flater is now more obtusive. The edge of the plank is at a 90 degree edge. That might just be the way a clinker looks.

[Brent Cummings]

Again if I'm reading this right, the planks do overlap each other so the edge should be 90 degreeish to the previous plank.
If you can get a simple book on lapstrake construction it will probably clear things up for you.

[gert]

Chuckm; moving right along eh?

The image above shows what should be the "gain" area of your planks. Do you have Iain's Plywood boat building book?

I am almost ready to do GS' ( cb version for the newcomers) first plank after the garboard, I too have noticed that near the stern for a short distance it will be the back of this "second plank" that will be beveled as oposed to the face of the garboard; this is due to the little bit of reverse curve you get in this area; of coarse on your keel version this reverse curve is much larger in scope. I assume you'll be cutting gains at the ends of each plank; perhaps in this reverse curve area they too would be cut on the back of the next plank.

This is assuming I read your concern correctly.

Brent: the frames are notched (read beveled) so the planks lay closer to the station moulds and flat against the full width of the frames. I actually did exactly what Chuckm did for the garboard and was planning on following this procedure for the entire planking sequence but couldn't see how to control the fairness of the "notches" so I opted to fair all the frames and stems all the way down to the sheer line before I resume planking; this means I may have to "back fill" behind each plank at each frame face because they are curved.

Chuckm & I are both rank amatures at this boat building silliness, so any imput here from the forrum is apreciated cause we're both at the same stage of the same boat; except Chukm has opted for the more complex keel version.

[chuckm]

Yes I'm lurching in the dark.

[gert]

thanks for that image, the loose strake there definatly gets beveled on it's back side, it's also the last one this would apply to, after this it's "buissness as usual"