Ply/Dynel/Epoxy on Teck Deck

[Dale Genther]

That it I've had it with the teak deck on my 40 ft. sloop!! Several yaers ago I repaired, reefed, refastened, primed, and recaulked my teak deck (1 in. thick planks). All was fine until this past weekend, after weeks of no rain and record setting high temps. When it finally did rain, I had many leaks where the seam compound had pulled away from the plank. It wasn't from the palnks "working" as the boat was just sitting in the slip. The thought of redoing the seams again makes this not an option. Also, at this time, totally ripping up the deck and replacing it is not an option. I've done a search thru the forum archives and it seems I basically have two options: A- Canvas set in white lead past directly over the existing deck or B - Plywood over the existing deck with dynel/epoxy over the ply. Since I have done deck canvas work before this was initially my first choice. But then I started thinking more about the plywood/dynel/epoxy method over the existing deck. A good portion of the worK involved in either method is just removing all the deck hardware. Before I make a decision I have some question concerning the second method. How think should the plywood overlay be? I'm thinking 1/4 in. The reason for the ply over the existing deck is to provide a stable surface for the dynal/epoxy the adhere to. How should the ply be attached to the existing deck to allow the existing deck to move slightly (as it will) under the ply overlay ? A ply overlay will have butt seams where the fitted pieces of ply meet. How are the seams delt with? BTW I have not made adecision on dynel or fiberglass cloth yet, but I have read all the archives and have decided to put off the decision until I do some experimenting with dynel on my own.

[Dale Genther]

Sorry, subject should have been Teak deck not Teck deck. (as if you didn't already know)

[Buddy Sharpton]

A first thought would be maybe to bond two layers of thinner ply (4mm?) to the deck and over each other with staggered joints such that panel coverage is continuous. Perhaps bond to the deck with something flexible like 5200, and between the plywood layers with epoxy, and fix dynel to the ply with epoxy. If you bonded that first layer of ply with something removable like 4200, then you or a subsequent owner could go back to the teak should you change you mind. Mind you, I haven't done a project like this before...

[Bayboat]

You probably don't want to hear this, but "He who is blessed with a teak deck should not cover it with material of a lesser quality." (Old boatbuilder's axiom #268).
I would bite the bullet and re-caulk. It shouldn't leak if you: 1) clean the seams thoroughly (router, skilsaw, Fein caulk-remover, or bent and sharpened file handle), making sure there is fresh wood at the sides; 2)caulk with cotton, driving it fairly tightly; a 1" deck should stand this OK; 3)as you caulk, apply a clear wood sealer; don't leave unsealed work overnight; 4)tape the deck surface alongside the seam; 5)apply an "old-fashioned" oil-based seam compound with a putty knife, by hand, and mash it in well, assuring contact with the sides of the seams and leaving no bubbles. If you want to use a gun, finish by hand-mashing. Steer clear of seam compounds that "harden like rubber" but don't strike into the wood. Use one that stays flexible and that will come and go with the seam. 6)remove the tape as you go; don't leave it on overnight. Paint thinner will clean up any slop-overs. 7) after the compound sets up for a few days, sand lightly to remove any remaining slop-overs of sealer and seam compound; 8)slosh the decks with water at every opportunity, especially in hot, dry weather. Or, if you must leave her unattended for lengthy periods, get a boat cover; it will pay dividends much beyond the initial cost.

All of which is to say, do the most thorough job of which you are capable, and you should enjoy your nice teak deck for many years.

[Dale Genther]

Buddy - Thanks, what you suggested would certainly solve the seam broblem. I'm still concerned over the entire concept of the process. Guess I'll have to keep looking into it.

Bayboat - Already did everything you suggested a few years ago. It held up fine for a few years then failed during the latest hot/dry spell. It is not a job I will ever do again. "Watering" the deck often really is not an option for me as I live 2 1/2 hours away from the boat. Lucky to get there on weekends. A full cover would probaly help. But,that is exactly what I'm concidering, only I want to cover only the deck with something (canvas or ply/dynel/epoxy) !!

[Cedarhill Boatworks]

Listen to bayboat, he speaks the truth.