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Thread: Oil finish - home made

  1. #1
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    Default Oil finish - home made

    I am finishing out a pine table that will be used in a kitchen. I want to use a oil finish and have heard of mixing your own but never done it. The recipes Ive heard call for turpentine, linseed oil and maybe tung oil. Would bees wax go in it too ? I dont know the percentages either. I need help cause this is a project for my neighbor to give as a xmas gift to his wife.

    Think I procrastinated enough?

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    go to gun shop or walmart and buy Birchwoods Casey Tru-Oil...can't be beat for kitchen stuff...apply with fingers...clean off fingers with Goop or such...thins with turps...resists water stains and "pot" rings
    The doctrine of nonresistance against arbitrary power, and oppression, is absurd, slavish, and destructive of the good and happiness of mankind.
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  3. #3
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    The recipe I have from Les Schuldt is:
    1/3 Tung Oil
    1/3 BOILED Linseed Oil
    1/3 Turpentine

    See this thread, hope it helps

    http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/vbulle...ghlight=tidbit
    This post is temporary and my disappear at the discretion of the managment

  4. #4
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    Thanks Joe-

    anyone else have a different one or any tips on applying?

    Whats the drying time- hope its not much over 24 hours.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dryer lint
    I am finishing out a pine table that will be used in a kitchen. I want to use a oil finish and have heard of mixing your own but never done it. The recipes Ive heard call for turpentine, linseed oil and maybe tung oil. Would bees wax go in it too ? I dont know the percentages either. I need help cause this is a project for my neighbor to give as a xmas gift to his wife.

    Think I procrastinated enough?
    Ya think That mix won't dry for days and you'll need 5 or 6 coats to achieve any durability . What we gonna do with ya Lint

    The mix would be 1:1:2 each ,Boiled linseed , tung oil, turp's . More turp' / thinner faster drying ;-)

    Here's a link : http://www.woodworking.com/article_a...=6&article=903

    But your about a month to late for any of that, buy some Deft ; Satin drys fast , smell really bad when you apply it , smell goes away in a few days . Deft or laquer is your only last min. finish worth a darn.

    Stay fuzzy Mr. Lint

  6. #6
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    all will dry slow but Tru-Oil is the fastest...dry to touch in 24 and use in 48
    The doctrine of nonresistance against arbitrary power, and oppression, is absurd, slavish, and destructive of the good and happiness of mankind.
    Personal failures are too important to be trusted to others.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Allen
    go to gun shop or walmart and buy Birchwoods Casey Tru-Oil...can't be beat for kitchen stuff...apply with fingers...clean off fingers with Goop or such...thins with turps...resists water stains and "pot" rings
    thats a new one on me Phillip- is it made for gun stocks?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Allen
    all will dry slow
    Lacquer / Deft drys in about 20 minutes , so you can light sand and add another coat . Some of the water bornes will do the same with a nice warm shop , like 80 and a flow of air. Good luck Lint a day late a dollar short eh

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    Ive used laquer- dont want to go there-

    What is Deft?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dryer lint
    Ive used laquer- dont want to go there-

    What is Deft?
    Hey kills afew brain cells , you got plenty right

    Deft : Link :

    http://www.deftfinishes.com/wood/clear.htm

    Good luck

  11. #11
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    You'd be better off with Watco's than any home made oil you'd come up with , if you don't use the Deft or laquer. Or gift it next year when the linseed oil final drys

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    Watco Teak oil is good stuff. Soaks in give it twenty minutes add a little new oil and polish the whole mess as dry as you can. give it an hour or two and repeat the first application. After that you can touch up the finish with a little fine steel wool and oil when ever it starts to look a little shabby. Just don't let it dry in a puddle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dryer lint
    thats a new one on me Phillip- is it made for gun stocks?
    yep...gunstock finish...very tough and made for all kinds of enviorments and solvent exposure...also easy to patch/refinish or add to
    The doctrine of nonresistance against arbitrary power, and oppression, is absurd, slavish, and destructive of the good and happiness of mankind.
    Personal failures are too important to be trusted to others.

  14. #14
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    Default oil finish-homemade

    Bullseye brand shellac. At the hardware store. Maybe not the wisest for a kitchen table but you're in a hurry right? coats dry real fast. Looks great. Easy to brush on.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dryer lint
    ...pine table that will be used in a kitchen..... for my neighbor to give as a xmas gift to his wife.
    The only finishes that'll dry by tomorrow are shellac and Truoil, and water-sensitive shellac doesn't like damp napkins, let alone spilled milk. Watco oils will also work well, but take a bit longer to dry odor-free than Truoil.

    Head over to your local sporting goods store, buy a large bottle of Truoil, and follow the instructions on the label. Easy to use. Use a heat gun on the first coat to speed drying, then apply a second coat followed by the heat gun. With two coats you should have some build up, so abrade the surface with #0000 steel wool followed by a paint store tack rag prior to the next coat. You can get in 3 coats of Truoil a day if in a hurry.
    Last edited by Bob Smalser; 12-24-2006 at 12:22 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Smalser
    The only finishes that'll dry by tomorrow are shellac and Truoil, and water-sensitive shellac
    Ah Bob thats not true the water bornes and Deft / laquer will dry , never used tru-oil , but to say "The only " is not true / right.

    Mr. Lint more than likely does not have a table to put finish on anyway , he's just pullin our collective chains

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    ill try to get a pic- i think itll be going out now as a late xmas gift its a rustic harvest table so dont expect fine joinery

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Girouard
    Ah Bob thats not true the water bornes and Deft / laquer will dry , never used tru-oil , but to say "The only " is not true / right.
    You're right of course, Paul. Deft wasn't in my frame of reference.

  20. #20
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    Lint,

    I'm relatively new to this forum, but have been a professional woodworker since 1972. I don't know the tru oil finish, so can't speak to it. Any of the oil finishes will not be dry in time for Xmas. Deft is one brand of lacquer. If you don't like lacquer (why not, BTW?) that doesn't leave a lot of options.

    First, is a waterbased laquer. I've had good results with 3: Sherwin Williams (you can probably eliminate this one, as it must be sprayed - no brushing); General Finishes; Benjamin Moore. Good finishes, but might take a bit of time to learn the quirks. Maybe not a good choice to try for the first time while under the gun. Might not even dry in time anyway.

    Second is shellac. When I read Mr. Smalzer's postings, I'm usually in agreement, or in awe of his knowledge. This time I must disagree. Fresh shellac is not prone to water damage. It is, however, very vulverabel to alcohol damage. If you buy premixed shellac (as I do) such as the Zinnser Bullseye, the vehicle is denatured alcohol. So, if someone spills their wine, whiskey, etc. - the finish melts and deforms. It's easy to fix, but who wants to bother? Not me.

    So... here's my scheme. Do the shellac. Apply, dry, and sand: two to three coats - as quick as a bunny. Apply a final coat, let dry, and rub out with OOOO steel wool. It'll be lovely. Then, after Xmas, steal the table back for a weekend, and repair any damage to the shellac. Then put another two to three coats of oilbased or plastic topcoat on it. I'd do a wipeon - wipeoff varnish, myself - but there are a lot of options at that point. Shellac is a wonderful substrate for any sort of topcoat (except those few perverse products that contain silicone). If your final topcoats are gonna be waterbased, don't rub out the final shellac coat with steel wood, use a nylon scrubby pad instead. The tiny flecks of steel wool will rust from the waterbased topcoat. This results in an "interesting" - but not particularly desirable - effect.

    Good Luck

  21. #21
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    David , right on my man . I have done the shellac deal , either to match color ( most generally with amber cut shellac ), seal the wood so stain would be more uniform (as a sanding sealer) , also as a "quick build " for finish to lay on. Then have , almost aways , done 2 or 3 coats of Crystal fin water borne finish . I'm using / trying out a new water borne currently , Dalys Aqua spar , so far so good . Brushed on , or in combo with a "peanut roller" small low nap roller, drys far , builds well and has a slightly amber cast to the finish. For my lil one man shop it is a nice fit.

    You got any hot tips on woodworkers forums ? Other than FWW that one confuses me as to the machanic to posting , the content is OK but it sure is not a user friendly forum setup , IMO , which doesn't mean much , others seem to have figgered it out but I get all blocked up / crossed up trying to post there

  22. #22
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    Hey Lint check out the speed finish >

    So and Mr. Lint take note here , made , shellaced , stained & one coat of water borne finish in ah less than 3 hours , oh ya I made some VG Fir base for another job along with the legs.

    http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...g?t=1167081472

    Top secert house mix as well on the legs



    http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...g?t=1167081526


    http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...g?t=1167081635


    http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...g?t=1167081671


    So whats your excuse?

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