Building a "Susan" continued

[RodB]

This is a boatbuilding documentation of the Schooner "Susan" continued from the following thread:

http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulleti...er+%22Susan%22

SO THIS IS PART TWO!!!

The Builder is Bob Albers who lives about 20 miles north of Dallas and is building this Schooner for his personal use. See the first thread on this project if you want to know more about this design...

Well here she is strip planked with 1 1/2" X 3/4" rectangular strips with a groove in each edge (kinda tongue and groove) and a spruce spline to keep all lined up. The following photos will illustrate this. The strips are cedar with grain orientation such that max strength is maintained. The strips were obtained from ripping cedar 2X4's. Two diagonal layers of 1/8" Cedar veneer are to follow with a final fore and aft layer applied last.







From inside...kinda neat shot.


How she looks at the stem...shows the splines well.


The planking materials... BTW, Mr. Albers used PL in the grooves in lieu of epoxy, which made for much easier application and will work fine...especially since this hull will have three layers of veneer on the exterior and the inside surface will also be glassed.




A simple method to pull up a plank while putting in temporary fasteners.


Finishing up the deadwood planking.


How she comes together at the transom.


RB

[RodB]

Scarffed in place joints.


Bob hard at it...


And from overhead.


This side of the stern had better light...


Now just a lot of sanding and screw removal, filling and fareing...then on to the veneer cold molding.

RB

[Cecil Borel]

Rod: having been there myself, it looks like he's doing a wonderful job and proceding rather quickly. Thanks for the updated photos

[HarryH]

Looking very good....lots of work!. Your photos are great, very informative...thanks for taking the time to put them up...

-HarryH

[Wild Dingo]

Rod its coming along brilliantly!
One question mate... dont know if youve already answered it but that keel? was it laminated? seems to have some interesting wriggles goin on!
Anyway mate very much appreciate this
Cheers

[RodB]

Yes the keel is laminated Southern Yellow Pine and will have an end cap plus be glassed after all is said and done. Additionally, on the interior... proper fillets of epoxy will be laid along both sides of the joint between the frame and the planks and then the interior of the hull will be glassed between the frames. Naturally the hull exterior will be sheathed with fiberglass or Xynole.

RB

[RodB]

First layer of veneer being applied...lots of heat down here now... will have photos in a week or so.

RB

[StevenBauer]

Thanks for all these great pics Rod. He sure is making a fine job of it.
Keep 'em coming.

Steven

[Chan]

Great pictures Rod
Are you the builder or the historian, photographer?
I have some questions about the methods?

[RodB]

Chan,

I'm a photographer who has been looking at this design for awhile as my next boat to build and this local builder decided to build "Susan" and contacted me as to his starting construction. It seems my threads on the WB forum played a key role in his choosing this design.

I am going to document the process in trade out for learning from a real experienced builder. "Susan" is at the top of my list to build IF I don't build a maxi-trailerable design.

Ask your questions.

RB

[Chan]

Rod the pictures are great, I've seen more in those pictures than in 20 years of woodenboat how to build articles.
My first question is why not use permanent fastenings in the planking to frames?
I believe you stated the molds are permanent frames, great idea, but why use temporary fastenings, there don't seem to be that many, why not save a little time, spend a little more money, and use suitable screws for permanent fastenings. The holes need to be filled anyway.
I've always felt that glue should be backed up by mechanical fastenings anyway.

[RodB]

I think I asked a similar question just thinking some screws would add a bit more strength... and was told it wasn't necessary for strength in this strip/cold molded hull. I would also think some would feel it a negative to have a metal screw buried if your ever coming back later with repairs. This hull will end up being 3/4" strips, with two layers of 1/8" veneer, plus Xynol cloth sheathing the exterior, and the interior will be glassed. The permanent frames are not only going to be edge glued to the planks...but also epoxy fillets will be laid along each side of each frame bonding the frame to the planks from bilge to sheer.

Its hard to make a case for using permanent fasteners in this specific location (1 1/2" planks to frames)...they simply are not needed. Epoxy is plenty strong and does the job. NOTE: The cold molded process is being completed with Raptor plastic staples, which is a great innovation...and makes the cold molding process so much easier...not having to remove staples with strapping and then using pliers to remove all the staples that didn't all come out. It was so nice to see thousands of staples used to hold down the diagonal veneer strips, and all you have to do is sand the staples's heads off later...so easy, no muss, no fuss, no filling.

The builder was going to build her strip planked, and two layers of diagonal veneer, then a final layer of fore and aft veneer...but decided to leave out one of the diagonal layers. I'll have some photos to come in a couple days.

RB

[Hesp]

Rod, what size section would you say those strips are?

I see he's using a block of wood and a clamp to pull strips into place. Another way is one of those ratchet straps used as hold-downs on vehicles - run it right over the hull to some convenient strong point.

[RodB]

The strips "planks" are 1 1/2" wide by 3/4" thick....milled from solid stock cedar with long straight grain. As each plank was fitted over the spline the clamping needed was best achieved by using the block and "C" clamp method you see here. The downward pressure on the plank to the rib/frame was fine with a temporary screw. The fillets to be laid in later along each joint edge between each frame and the planks (from bilge to sheer) will make all very strong.

Rod

[RodB]

Heres the continuation of the hull construction. The hull strip-planked with rectangular clear grain cedar then a diagonal layer of 1/8" veneer (spruce/pine/et al) using Raptor plastic staples. The process went very quickly and the plastic staples make for a much better methodology then using metal staples... by-passing staple removal with strapping... (see photos).

Strip-planks faired... ready for veneer...


Cold molding well on the way...



Rolling epoxy for the next swath of strips...epoxy also rolled on the surface of the strips of veneer...




Cold molded strips closer up...


Raptor staple gun and plastic staples...



Plastic staples holding down the veneer well... photo from other side of hull with better light...




After this layer the fore and aft cedar veneer will be applied. These veneer strips are about 8-10" wide and about 8 feet plus in length...and will be applied fore and aft orientation.


Once this layer is completed fairing will take place then the final layer of veneer.

RB

[RodB]

More to follow in a week or so....


RodB

[Hesp]

Rod, I'm suprised to see the narrow width of these veneers. Presumably he edge bent them as he progressed as there is no sign of tapered veneers or stealers?

[Doug Teggin]

Very interesting. Good photos.

Regarding your first layer of Cedar planks. Is there any bevel between the planks? if not, there must have been a few seams to fill - what was used to fill the gaps?

You mention that you will glass the inside - Are you going to remove the frames (fixed initially with tempoary fastners), glass and then replace the frames?

[RodB]

John Hesp-

The builder used thin strips of veneer which were cut from "two by" material which was inexpensive and easy to apply. Also, there were some strips that were about 3 1/2" wide (the longer side of the board) and they were spiled or tapered to fit via a scribe along one side as in carvel...there just weren't many. The strips were very easy to edge bend and went on oh so quickly. Final layer will be long wide quality cedar veneer laid fore and aft...






Doug-

The planks had no bevel, just slotted for the spline. There are a few gaps here and there but very small and they were filled with the thickened epoxy fairing compound from MAS Epoxies...pretty straight forward. The PL adhesive used in the grooves squeezed out filling the gaps pretty well, but if not the premixed epoxy faring compound from MAS did the job fine.





The frames are permanent and the interior of the hull will be glassed after fillets of epoxy are applied to the joint on both sides of each frame from sheer to bilge. It will be a little tedious but very do-able and will result in a strong balanced hull with total encapsulation. Note: this hull has about 1/2 or less of the original frames as the builder pretty much redesigned the hull in CAD eliminating excess frames that were not needed in this type of construction. The exterior will be sheathed with Xynol polyester cloth, the interior regular weave fibeglass. The following photos show where the fillets of epoxy will be laid for a clearer illustration.



This shows how snug the strip planks fit in most areas.


RodB

[Doug Teggin]

Thanks for the details and photos.

This is what I'm wanting to do for my hull so I'm following this with keen interest.

Is the PL adhesive you mention a Polyurethane glue? If so, that would 'foam' out and fill the small gaps.

[RodB]

This was a PL (polyurathane adhesive) from Home Depot that is rated completely waterproof and was a light tan color. It was easier to apply in the groove of the planks with the smaller sized tubes that fit in a regular caulking gun...with the tip cut at the extreme end at a angle. I don't know about it foaming out but when the planks were clamped in place there was PL squeezing out in most areas.

RB

[RodB]

Photograhic info: Nikon D200 ditital SLR, Nikon DX 12mm-24mm lens....

The following photos show sanding, fairing , and lining off for planking. The next step will be cold molding the final layer of veneer fore and aft.



Fairing board and you can see the laying off lines at each station...


Close up of faired surface...plastic staples sure make the process easier...


Sprung batten used as starting point to line off planks (veneer), note as you go forward the division of equal spacings at each station become wider amidships...


Diagonal veneer tapered at sternmost deadwood...only fore and aft veneer layer to cover here in addition to sheathing of Xynol polyester cloth.


Slightly wider view...


With each station marked thusly...the shape of each fore and aft veneer plank is lifted off the hull and each plank is cut in doubles to make a veneer plank for the other side of the hull at the same time. Note the batten was placed at the highest point before the turn of the bilge turns again towards the keel. This point allows for a easily faired line for the batten to lay flat.


Transom ply layer...teak planks will be applied on top of this layer...


Shes just about ready for the ply to be installed on the framed up transom...


View from bow...


Fore and aft veneer planking starts next weekend. More photos to follow.

RodB

[RodB]

After fairing the diagonal layer of veneer the final layer of veneer (fore and aft orientation) comes next. In this final layer metal staples were used with package strapping...to minimize the depth of the divots left by staples, (Note: sanded plastic staple's heads came off and left deeper indentations which were more work to fill and fair). This photo shows a few planks applied to illustrate the results...Note, the veneer stock is laid along the edge (secured with 3-4 staples) of the last plank and a scribe is used to mark that edge shape on the new stock. The width of the planks is then marked on the stock from each point scribed for the shape of the previous plank. This is standard fitting of planks as in carvell etc...



Closer up of process...


Once the plank width is marked via dividers, a batten is sprung to mark the shape of the plank...and penciled in...then the new plank is cut to shape...




Once the plank is cut to shape a duplicate is made to go on the other side of the hull... Usually both sides go on without a hitch. A block plane is used to trim planks for a more precise fit.



Prior to installing the planks, epoxy is rolled on both the plank and the hull in the area where they will be installed....


Epoxy coated veneer plank is placed in position and a few staples are used to secure it in place. Note: the strapping is used under the staples in three strips to allow for easy staple removal...enough staples are installed to completely hold the veneer down to the hull with no voids. Initially the strapping is just minimally stapled in place for general positioning... then you come back and install staples all along the plank to insure the plank comforms to the hull shape....


Three rows of staples does the trick and are easily removed via pulling the strapping and using pliers for those that did't pop out.




Four planks on each side completed... and the work continues....


Fore and aft veneer to be followed by sheathing with Xynol Polyester ... More to come later....
RodB

[RodB]

Oh yea, a nice perspective shot. The transom will be planked with teak later on....


RB

[Kim Whitmyre]

That is looking so good! A few years ago, I came across a web site that had a similar build process shown for a flush-deck hull built by a carpenter in his garage. His feelings when he finally go the sails up, with the sensation of the hull picking up speed were pure joy.

[warthog5]

Back when the 1st layer went on that was splined and scarffing on the boat.

What was the scarff ratio?

[pipefitter]

Awesome.

[RodB]

The scarf ratio on the strip planks was 8:1 I believe. .. and they were scarfed in place.

Thanks for the comments.

RodB

[Doug Teggin]

Thanks for posting. A wonderful job and a fantastic looking hull.

[RodB]

More to follow on labor day weekend....

RB

[Stiletto]

Many thanks for the postings Rod, I've been enjoying following the process of construction.

Great photos and explanations.

[RodB]

Not too much progress but the fore and aft veneer has turned the bilge...









Next, completion of this last layer of fore and aft veneer, laminating the keel cap layers in preparation to receive the ballast keel. . . filling and fairing, and sheathing with Xynol polyester cloth...then painting.

More to come in a few weeks.

RB

[brian.cunningham]

always nice to see another schooner going together.

[RodB]

Bump to keep this thread in reach....more photos comming in near future.

RB

[Old Sailor]

This has to be the best boat porn ever posted here!!!!!!!!
Old Sailor

[RodB]

Thanks Old Sailor... I'm glad to share this great project with other interested parties.

Heres some more progress. The final layer of fore and aft veneer is complete and now the deadwood must be added in preparation for the ballast keel once she is turned over. Final fairing is the main focus right now...The next steps will be finalizing the deadwood and stem cap and finally sheathing the hull with Xynol polyester cloth before turning her over.

The Builder, Bob Albers, decided to add about 10 galvanzed bolts...clamping the 10-14 inches of wood laminated beneath the floors to just add insurance for the long haul. These galvanized bolts will be buried and glassed over...and will be high and dry on the interior. Two 1/2" bolts will be placed in each floor and countersunk both in the floor and in the bottom deadwood (which will be attached to the ballast keel).

That hull shape sure is sweet, I always get a lift when I go by to check on the progress.

Well heres some more photos... As usual, all photos taken with a Nikon D200 and either the 12-24 DX lens or the 18-200 VR lens.

Bob working on a large chunk of deadwood to be bolted to the hull...


She really looks sweet now, and the final fairing is not even completely done...


Bob drilling through the floor for bolting through to the deadwood.


These holes in the floors will be countersunk so the bolts will be buried in the oak... The actual ballast keel bolts will be located along the flat lamination layer you see below the floors... with monel bolts. The laminated layers of yellow pine and merranti ply probably total about 12-15 inches throughout the lenght of the bottom where the ballast keel will be bolted in place.

Heres Bob drilling the countersink hole in the Oak floor...with a forstner bit. Since He had already drilled the 1/2" hole, he use a 1/2" bung tapped into the hole to center the forstner drill bit and keep it centered while he drilled the countersink.


Final wallowing out the holes so the bolts will fit loose enough to allow some room for some epoxy slathered all around the bolt and interior of the hole. That is yellow pine he is working on. The bolts will be counter sunk on the outside too.


This is a better view of the interior of the bottom where you can see more or less where the ballast keel will bolt up to...the flat laminated area below the floors.


Heres a view of the sheer from underneath the hull. Once turned over fillets of epoxy will be applied along both sides of each frame against the strip planks... and the interior of the hull will be glassed.


Heres the interior at the stern showing the sternpost and the rudder post channel lined with a fiberglass pipe.


Heres the prop shaft channel entry into the hull also with a fiberglass pipe liner already epoxied in. Other parts are labeled. The fiberglass pipe lining the rudder post and prop shaft channels will alleviate water getting into these areas that go through the hull.


Heres the exiting prop shaft fiberglass pipe...


Heres the bronze fitting that will be attached later on for the prop shaft to go through.


More to follow...too many photos already.

RB

[RodB]

Heres "Susan's" const profile...this "Susan" will be different from the original because Mr Albers strip/cold molded her...and redesigned somewhat... the hull has less than half the frames of the original...etc.



Heres another good angle of view...


And finally the stem...which he will take the final shape directly off of what you see here and laminate the cap, which will be about 3-4 inches thick and start at the width you see and taper to about two inches on its final outer layer....later to be sheathed along with the rest of the hull.




Oh yea, Bob Albers, the builder and owner of this "Susan" also makes his own blocks...








He makes these so good that he has received orders from "The Pirates of the Caribbean" conglomerate and has made them many blocks in several sizes for their movies...those old square riggers...pretty neat, huh?

One without engraving and the wrappings on the line.


I understand this is the best way for longevity...wrapping and oiling the wrap to protect the line underneath.


Well, thats all for now. Not too much will change visually until the deadwood and stem cap are completed...and the hull is sheathed.

More to come later,

Rod Brink

[RodB]

OH yea, here is the stem from the interior...


RB

[Hesp]

Nice photos as ever Rod. Any idea how many hours this has taken so far?

John

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

wow

[RodB]

Hey John, I would have to guess but less than a year...as he works full time as a mechanical engineer so weekends and evenings when he can...about 8 months not counting computer time for the redesign.

RB

[RodB]

John, I think his estimate of finish time may be realistic...about 3 years.

RB

[brian.cunningham]

The Builder is Bob Albers who lives about 20 miles north of Dallas and is building this Schooner for his personal use.

I used to live in Dallas, where does he plan on sailing it?

[RodB]

Most likely Lake Texoma....

RB

[RodB]

A few more pix for more details.


Close up of deadwood and final layer of veneer...


Note the oak will be the lowest part of the frames if any water collects in the bilge.


Almost ready to be sheathed...


Hopefully will be sheathing the hull exterior with Xynol in a couple weeks.

RB

[Alan D. Hyde]

Excellent!

Keep up the great posts; they're very much appreciated.

Alan

[Doug Teggin]

Please keep the photos coming. You could put them into a book one day as they follow the construction process very well. With a few building notes from Bob and you'd have a winner.

Have you an idea on the final inside layout? I've seen the drawings in the second post of the original topic. Are you sticking to that or do you have other ideas?

[RodB]

I'll keep em comming as long as the builder keeps abuilding....

RB

[RodB]

Well, the deadwood with all its bolts and such... plus fairing are taking quite a while. The following images show making the center of the deadwood fit the ballast keel plug, which was taken off the plans.



Heres the ballast keel plug (upside down by the way) which he took plywood patterns off of to cut and fit the center of the deadwood sections.


Here you can see the laminations of the stem laid down nicely...and tapered from about 8-10 inches thick to about 3" thick. Each lamination of yellow pine is about 1/2" thick at the stem...but much thicker as the deadwood progresses towards the foot.




The fairing is comming along nicely but the cedar exterior lamination is soft so epoxy will be rolled on the hull exterior to give a harder finish and an easier surface to fair....because you can see the high spots better.


A close up of the deadwood laminations at the foot of the stem...


Another angle...


And another view from the stern... Lots of galvanized bolts embedded here to insure strength. As said before, sheathing to follow will be Xynol polyester fabric...


The epoxy coating begins...temp about 65 degrees...Bob uses MAS...


Bob says this coating allows for much easier fairing because its harder and the cedar veneer is so soft. FYI techies...he rolled on MAS with medium speed hardener and went over it with a 4" foam brush to keep it even. The cedar veneer sure soaked up a lot of epoxy...





More to come...

Rod

[RodB]

A couple more...

This shows the nice shape of the keel deadwood cap...




And a nice closeup of the stem...



Later,

Rod