quick and dirty pulling boat build

[TomF]

Nightly I sit on a rowing machine for exercize, while the lovely water in the enormous Saint John river slips by unmolested not two blocks from my door. It's time to build a pulling boat. This will not be my ultimate boat - I've already got that one planned out ... but the build will take more time and $ than I can spare just now. What I want is to build something serviceable and decent to get me on the water regularly for a couple of years, primarily for fixed-seat fitness rowing. Quick and cheap construction ... needn't last indefinitely. I'm thinking medium-quality ply, with stitch-and-glue or glue-lap construction.

I'd love your input on possible designs. I'm thinking about Michaluk's "Oracle," which is the latest iteration of his Roar design. He also did a ply-lap version of Herreshoff's pulling boat ... the one reworked by John Gardner. That latter would probably be a better boat, but might take too much longer in construction to stay in contention here. My wants, in order of importance:

• Pulling boat only. Not looking for sail, or motor.
• Moves well, but not a racing boat. River conditions include 1-2MPH current, sometimes a chop of up to 8", and frequently winds of up to 15 MPH. This won't be an ocean boat - that's my next build.
• Easily transportable to the water - preferably car-toppable. I'd rather avoid the expense/bother of a trailer for a boat I'll be using for an hour's exercize 4-5 times weekly.
• Fixed rather than sliding seat(s).
• Capable of carrying 1-2 passengers.
• Can accommodate 2 rowers, if the fit takes us.
• easy on the eyes; prefer "traditional" lines.

I'd love your suggestions.

[John Bell]

Although it was kind of homely, my michalak Sportdory was close to your list. Two rowers requires a longer boat though. It was too heavy to car top solo, even though I did it more than I trailered it. Trailering was ALWAYS easier than putting it on the roof. Always. No kidding.

My old boat can be seen these days around Kingston, ON.

My honest opinion is that if two rowers is a must have, then forego cartopping, and build Bolger's 19' Big Dory. It meets every one of your requirements other than ease of cartopping.

[TomF]

2 rowers isn't a must-have, but 1-2 passengers probably is.

If I were going to build a dory, and one that would require a trailer, I'd probably build a Gunning Dory ... just 'cause I love the lines so. In Gardner's last book, he gave the lines/offsets of the original Chamberlain gunning dory, rather than his re-worked version. For a dory dedicated to solely rowing, it kinda embodies grace to me...

But just for the practicality factor, I think I should try to find something cartoppable, even if it means only a single rower.

[Steve Paskey]

Steve Redmond's Whisp, 68 pounds. See: http://www.sredmond.com

[Todd Bradshaw]

My first thought was a Gloucester Light dory. One rower only, but it will carry a passenger.

[Uncle Duke]

Steve Paskey responds:
Steve Redmond's Whisp, 68 pounds

I would second that - I built one for a friend (and boss, CEO of my company). He used it for years with his 2 daughters and his wife (mostly not all at once), but really enjoyed it best alone. Nice build, light, rows great with 1. Not sure (Steve Paskey may know better) how it works with 2 rowers. After scarfing, we built the whole thing in one weekend (not counting finishing, of course).
Sadly, especially for him, it got stolen 2 years ago and he's never recovered it. Great boat, though. Nicely balanced.

[TomF]

Whisp sounds like it ... barring something unforseen, I think that will be the boat. Thanks gents!

Searching through old threads on Whisp, I see that some have recommended going with slightly heavier wood for framing, both for added stiffness and durability. What gets the nod for planking stock? This is to be marketed to SWMBO as a let's-not-break-the-bank venture, so Brunzyeel is right out.

t.

[JimD]

Steve's site doesn't seem to say what thickness plywood is used for wisp. You might even get away with 4 mm or no more than 6. Anyone know if anything more light weight than okoume?

[John Bell]

Whisp just doesn't sound like a Q&D boat to me. Your gonna wind up with a yacht, aren't 'cha? (Which was the plan all along, anyway. Don't worry, for the small price of $50 we won't let SWMBO in on the down low...)

[Steve Paskey]

I just checked the plans. Steve specs 4 mm Okoume for both the topsides and bottom of Wisp, with fiberglass sheathing on the bottom. You could build a cheaper boat from 1/4 inch (6mm) ply of a different species, but the ply would weigh TWICE as much per square foot.

You'll need four sheets for the topsides (with a fair bit of waste, which can't be helped). The bottom can probably be done from a single sheet, but you'd have to lay it out to be sure.

Noah's marine in Toronto ( http://www.noahsmarine.com ) has BS 6566 Marine Okoume for CN $49 a sheet. The better grade of Okoume (BS 1088) is CN $58 at Noahs. That's about $250 for the ply, plus tax and shipping if you can't pick it up. In my view, anything you might save by going with cheaper ply isn't worth the extra weight.

P.S. -- If you give her a workboat finish (paint only, with imperfections), your spouse won't know she's a yacht.

P.P.S. -- Also, if you use good materials, she'll last longer and you'll probably get some of the money back if you sell her once you've built that "ultimate" boat. And if you never get around to the ultimate boat, you'll be glad you built her well.

[JimD]

My vote for 4 mill 1088 okoume, finished bright, or at least bright on the inside and a bright sheerstrake. She'lll be the lightest weight possible for car topping and very pretty.

[TomF]

Right then. 4 mill Okoume she'll be ... paint and glass outside at least, and likely paint mostways elsewhere too. But the sheerstrake must be varnished, as probably will be the transom, seats etc. If I'll be rowing every night, I won't want to worry about scratching up the nice brightwork interior when I huff my water bottle down in disgust. Besides, if I make her TOO pretty, I might never be able to justify building the other boat ...

Actually, those materials prices are less than I'd feared ... thanks lads. Once I hide .. er, save ... enough money to start procuring it, we'll be away. In the meantime, maybe I'll see if anyone local can order in the ply for less than it would cost to ship from Noah's. Doubt it, but you never know.

t.

[craigdempsey]

According to the plans I have for Whisp and a materials list from a copy of a build article in Small Boat Journal, you will only need four sheets of ply for this boat.

[craigdempsey]

Pardon me, that is three sheets, not four.

[Neil H B]

Before you cut that first ply sheet for Redmond's Whisp (which is nice), have you considered a geodesic boat? IMHO, Monfort's boats (which I have not built) seem to be the best fit to your original criteria. Have look here <http://gaboats.com/>

regards Neil

[Rick Tyler]

Jacques Mertens recently redrew Joe Dobler's "Lissa" for S&G construction. It's bigger (15'6' x 4'1"), but it was designed first and foremost for rowing. Jacques shows a small sailing rig as an option, but that's not what it's really for. The weight shown in Mertens' study plans is for the sailing version -- I don't know what the rowing-only version weighs.

I've always been a big fan of Dobler's design since I read about it in one of Ted Jones' books, and I'm glad complete plans are now available at a reasonable price. The URL is http://www.boatplans-online.com/prod....php?prod=OT16. I don't know if any of Mertens' Otters are finished yet, but there are quite a number of Dobler's around, and several people are building Otters right now.

I thought of the Otter when you mentioned you might want two rowers and that the water where you row frequently gets choppy. The boat is big enough for four people, and should handle any normal river or bay water you might run into. The optional sail rig appeals to me, but I've always thought the poles should stick up and hold sailcloth and not stick down into the water.

Good luck in your build. (By the way, if you are a first-time builder, you are unlikely to build a 70-pound Whisp. No offense intended, it's just the way things go most of the time.)

[Lewisboats]

[TomF]

I give up, Lewisboats. Which one is it? Sweet lines ...

[Lewisboats]

My own design...MorningMist . Thanks for the nice comment, most of my stuff is square-ish and I don't hear those kind of words very often . Let me know if you want the offsets for the panels (Gratis). Stitch and glue would make it just the right weight: light enough to cartop but heavy enough to have some carry between strokes. The shown waterline is at 375 lbs, with an estimated boat wt of 90 lbs or so, maybe a little less if you built light (6mm bottom and 4mm sides).


Here are the specs:


Design length : 15.984 [ft]
Length over all : 16.104 [ft]
Design beam : 4.445 [ft]
Beam over all : 4.296 [ft]
Design draft : 0.360 [ft]
Midship location : 6.545 [ft]
Water density : 62.400 [lbs/ft3]
Appendage coefficient : 1.0000
Volume properties:
Displaced volume : 6.040 [ft3]
Displacement : 0.168 [tons]
Total length of submerged body : 14.480 [ft]
Total beam of submerged body : 3.293 [ft]
Block coefficient : 0.3519
Prismatic coefficient : 0.5467
Vert. prismatic coefficient : 0.5516
Wetted surface area : 33.514 [ft2]
Longitudinal center of buoyancy : 7.510 [ft]
Longitudinal center of buoyancy : 6.665 [%]
Vertical center of buoyancy : 0.241 [ft]
Midship properties:
Midship section area : 0.763 [ft2]
Midship coefficient : 0.6436
Waterplane properties:
Length on waterline : 14.480 [ft]
Beam on waterline : 3.293 [ft]
Waterplane area : 30.417 [ft2]
Waterplane coefficient : 0.6379
Waterplane center of floatation : 7.202 [ft]
Entrance angle : 17.746 [degr.]
Transverse moment of inertia : 18.226 [ft4]
Longitudinal moment of inertia : 305.28 [ft4]
Initial stability:
Transverse metacentric height : 3.259 [ft]
Longitudinal metacentric height : 50.787 [ft]
Lateral plane:
Lateral area : 4.541 [ft2]
Longitudinal center of effort : 7.097 [ft]
Vertical center of effort : 0.195 [ft]

Steve

[Spokaloo]

Im currently building one of Selway-Fisher's nice rowing boats, which will qualify for your quick and dirty plan if you can knock out the lines and scarfs quickly. My shop holds the 17' thames, here are some of the others:

http://www.selway-fisher.com/Rowskiffs.htm

Great plans, minimal instructions though. Going together rather quickly and will meet all your requirements.

E

[rbgarr]

If Whisp is the size and weight you're comfortable handling on a vehicle, this design (a more expensive 'kit' than you may want to invest in) may suit. Seats for passengers and for two rowers.

http://www.clcboats.com/boats/wherry_lph4.php

[TomF]

I agree, the Annapolis Wherry is gorgeous. Aside from the kit price, that would be ideal ... and would leave the option at some future point of putting in a Piantedosi sliding seat.

So to make a clone, or at least a relative, I guess I'd be down to engaging in the design process Chad's been investing in for his canoe... Dang.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

I built Merten's Scilly Wherry a few years ago (15' x 3'6"). Modified it for one or two rowers, and added some bouyancy tanks. It rows well in river and moderate offshore conditions, we cruise at 3.5 kt and have had it up to 4.5 kt by the GPS.
As designed, its probably a bit heavy for a cartopper (90lb) but in 4 mm ply it would be OK. I leave it on the bay and a small trolley makes it easy to launch single handed.
The build is quick and easy, but its my last S&G boat. I have decided I prefer to build framed boats, they are lighter, more precise and less messy.
We get lots of compliments about the boat, it looks a picture on the water.

[Bruce Taylor]

Howzabout John Welsford's Huffboat?

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/02/...t/huffboat.htm

[garland reese]

.........Or John Welsford's Seagull or Mollyhawk...

http://www.jwboatdesigns.co.nz/plans...index.htm#mlhk

[TomF]

Huffboat looks very nice too ... fired off an e-mail to The Man Himself, to see how for-sale plans are developing.

To be honest, both it and the Selway Fisher (esp Thames 17) offerings are pretty much what had been in my head at the outset. Whisp looks both attractive and well-proven, but I've never been as drawn to sharpie hulls as to something round(er). 'Course, the more planks, the more time and fuss to build, the more cost, the more ...

... well, let's face it. The more like a yacht rather than a quick-and-dirty build. Bloody enablers, the lot of you. Feeding the addiction. I went to bed last night, and my dreamy and delicate spouse rolled over and throatily coo'd "Dear, whatcha thinking about?"

... and I was thinking about a note I'd written to John bloody Welsford.

[openboater]

you wanted a quick and dirty boat to go row, then just go buy a boat and row. If you want to build than build. but the 2 are mutually exclusive. by the time you get plans and build, that river that's 2 blocks away will be frozen.

I suggest you go buy a grumman 18' tin canoe with a rowing seat and
go row. Then spend your time dreaming about building.

[Spokaloo]

Honestly, the Thames is going together faster than my Tubby tug did. Only have about 25 hrs in (including laying lines and an abysmal set of scarf joints) and will be epoxying my frames and the inside of the 10 panels together tues. Its relatively a fast build, I will try to get some pics posted up of her when I get off shift tomorrow.

E

[JimConlin]

If the requirement is for a fixed seat and a capacity of 400 lbs or more, that rules out the Annapolis Wherry or Ken Bassett's Liz or Firefly designs. None of 'em have the needed beam or the volume and only the Firefly is easy to build.
If a sliding seat rig is a possibility, Ken Bassett used to sell plans for a 'double' version of the Firefly. It was about 22 feet, simple to build, and remarkably pretty . I think it could be built to about 85 lbs., without the rig.

[TomF]

Jim, the Piantedosi RoWing setups come in a bit over $500US. Though I'd love to put sliding seats into whatever rowing boat I build, the bank balance is going to mandate fixed seats instead.

I console myself that with a fixed seat, there will be less which might eventually break down and need fixing.