Centerboard Pivot Pin

[ddeaton]

Looking for the best way to seal the pin in the centerboard trunk. I am thinking wood blocks with bedding compound screwed over the holes?
What is the normal?
Thanks in advance,
Danny

[Mrleft8]

I used a SS bolt with neoprene washers sandwiched between SS fender washers, and a nylock nut. Works great.

[ddeaton]

That sounds good also. Are you using a bushing so as to not squeeze the centerboard case together. I would think you would need to tighten the bolt fairly good to get a watertight squeeze on the washers.

[StevenBauer]

I just used leather washers. Hasn't leaked a drop. But it's only been a few years.

Steven

[JimD]

I used Plumber's Goop

[Mrleft8]

That sounds good also. Are you using a bushing so as to not squeeze the centerboard case together. I would think you would need to tighten the bolt fairly good to get a watertight squeeze on the washers.

I thought about it. I tried it. It was awful complex to get right. I tried it w/o a bushing. It works great. The amount of pressure ia actually quite minimal. Just 1 turn past snug.

[Tom Lathrop]

Looking for the best way to seal the pin in the centerboard trunk. I am thinking wood blocks with bedding compound screwed over the holes?Danny

That is foolproof. No pressure and will never leak.

[Bob Smalser]

[DougWilde]

I devised a method that requires no screwholes, etc. in the centerboard case. I was able to do this because the bedlogs on Williwaw are 1-1/2 inches.

Embedded a 1" long bronze bushing, flush with the inside surface of the centerboard case, for for the 1/2" diameter bronze bolt. Drilled from the outside of the log with a 3/4" diameter Fostner until I reached the bushing.



Wrapped screw plugs for 1/2" PVC pipe with Teflon tape.



Soaked the inside of the holes in the bedlogs with straight epoxy. After the wood would not take-up any more I added thickened epoxy to the hole as well as on the (Teflon-coated threads) plugs. Put the plugs in the holes.

After the epoxy cured I backed the plugs out and removed any Teflon tape that stuck on the now cast threads in the bedlogs.

Installed the centerboard and bolt. Retaped the plugs and installed them. The centerboard bolt fits neatly inside the plugs. Doesn't leak a drop.



Only one hole per log, for the bolt anyway, well sealed with epoxy. No screwholes for a cap as potential source of water intrusion. No wracking pressures as on the old nut and bolt set-ups. No leather or neoprene to get squeezed and lose their seal.

Doug Wilde

[Bayboat]

I'd use a bronze bolt. Stainess will eventually rust if wet mot of the time.

[Jim Goodine]

I put in garboard drain plugs on both ends of the pin. I just turn out the bronze plugs and push the pin right out. Most marine catalogues have them.

[Frank E. Price]

I think you've got it just right, Danny. The pin in my sharpie skiff is a couple of inches above the lightly loaded waterline, so I didn't put anything at all over the ends. Doesn't leak a drop, even when the boat is loaded so that the pin is a little below the WL. The pin is a snug fit and the board has a sloppy-big hole, the board swinging around the oak pin. No signs of chafe either, almost five years after launching. The boat lives year-round on an outhaul and is used at least weekly, year-'round. Simple is good, and not just cheap.

Frank

[Philip Maynard]

I used a 1/2 brass nipple with the threads cut off - just shorter than the overall thickness of the trunk, and 2" x 1/8" bronze cover plate each side with bedding compound and FH wood screws into the bed logs, Seems much simpler than "no crush" and only projects 1/8".

[nedL]

An anchient old dory I had years ago had the simplest I've ever seen, the pin was wood, and simply split & wedged at each end with a wood wedge (just like a hammer handle in the head). It never leaked a drop. Must have been at least 70 years old when I got her.

[Tom W.]

I squirted some silicone seal into each hole in the centercase then inserted the centerboard bolt, tightened the nylon lined stainless nut snug but not too tight and it has not leaked at all.

[Thorne]

Mine is similar -- a big honkin' SS bolt with SS washers plus hand-cut red rubber washers on the outside of the case, capnut on the bolt, some Vulkem 116 around the bolt hole on the inside. No leaks, no worries, still adjustable.