Jammed rudder

[Nick Vowles]

Boat has been out of the water for three years and the rudder has siezed completely.It has a steel shaft that runs through the deck and hull, within a stainless tube.I have been spraying various oils on it but with no joy.
Anyone else experienced this or got any advice?

[Carl Simmons]

One word "Hammer" . Actually, Have you tried
tapping on it with a hammer. This will sometimes
break it loose.

Carl.

[Nick Vowles]

I've tapped it with a hammer.I've smacked it really hard with a hammer.I've put a piece of scaffolding tube on the end of the tiller and bent the tiller.I've even tried asking it really nicely with the promise of greasing it up properly every year and never letting it happen again...but still it didn't budge.

[J. Dillon]

All of the above and can you apply some heat by a torch without endangering things ? How about a continuous back and forth motion while applying heat, penetrating fluids and a few smacks on where ever it can be struck? How about a 1/8" hole past the tube and into space between shaft & tube to apply P. fluids ? Persistance pays, it could take hours, days. Wear it down.

PS A few prayers helps too.

JD

[Bob Perkins]

If it is a salt water boat, salt could be the problem.

When I have old blocks and parts that are caked up w/salt. I boil them.

Since you can't boil the back of your boat - try a hot water bath or maybe a hose w/water dripping down the tube.

My dumb suggestion of the day

[Ian McColgin]

Boy oh boy. Siezed after being out of the water. I'd take a mildly destructive approach with the idea that the rudder and tube might not survive.

The plan is to drop the rudder right out with a little damage as possible, but out it will come.

If you start by getting the rudder head off, you'll have space to do some drilling around the rudder stock at the top of the tube, you could make resevoirs to drip penetrating oil into. Keep irrigating for a week or so. I think this structure is a bit long and large for heat to help much but maybe.

Bang on the top of the shaft from time to time. This may shake the corrosion enough to add more penetrating oil.

If you're lucky, it'll come out after a while with only a little non-structural damage but you must be emotionally prepared to cut the rudder off where it comes out of the hull and then remove tube and shaft from the inside. Depending on the rudder stock construction, it may well be possible to make an insert and weld repair to the shaft and set that in a new tube.

Then keep it lubed.

G'luck

[Scott Rosen]

A safety note: Do not apply heat after you've applied penetrating oils and fluids.

[Rich VanValkenburg]

I was also going to say heat. It worked last night freeing up the brake drums on swmbo's car. Doesn't take much, jusy enough to expand the tube a hair.

Rich

[Ken Hutchins]

I'm serious now, you might try a better hammer. Get or make a hardwood persuader or commander whatever you want to call it (mine is my Flintstone hammer) about 20 lbs worth. A good piece of Beech or Maple tree limb about 8 inches in diameter and perhaps 20-24 inches long.
Cut a mortice about 1-1/2 wide x 3 inches long thru the middle. for a good man-sized handle which is held in by a cross dowel. This will move things that a steel sledge won't and won't cause the damage that a steel hammer will. I made 4 a few years ago when building the barn. Took about a hour to make all four. One is always handy for the serious thunking work.