who uses cabinet scrapers?

[Dale R. Hamilton]

I have always sanded cured epoxy- and of course I end up standing ankle deep in epoxy/microbaloon dust before I get a smooth surface. Then I read this article by Rob White in 2002 WB in which he says don't sand epoxy- scrape it smooth. So I dig out the old scraper I've had for years and sure enough it seems to work pretty good on cured epoxy. I've just ordered 3 more 6" jobbers that I will try out. Any you guys have experience with scrapers you could share?

[Bayboat]

Cabinet scrapers work just fine for smoothing epoxy. I use them without a burnished hook or just a small one. Epoxy is pretty hard so it's worth spending for a good quality scraper that will keep an edge/hook for a while.

[Matt J.]

I have a whole set of scrapers... but i haven't gotten good at keeping the edges up while aboard (i seem to need my vice) so they only get used for pieces I can work on in the shop. I have used them almost solely for varnish, though, and only a couple times for epoxy.

Way cool, though.

[Bruce Hooke]

I particularly like cabinet scrapers for things like leveling off lumps that result from puttying over a hole. For tasks like the final leveling of a flow-coated surface I still haul out the sander. These, of course, are the far ends of the spectrum. What I do in the space between these ends depends on the nature and scale of the job, my mood, etc.

[Bill Perkins]

Dale I've used one allot on epoxy . I really like the Veritas plastic holder for the blade . It cuts down on the abuse of your hands .

[Bob Smalser]

I use them almost every single day. Saves boocoo sandpaper.

Honed correctly, they can remove the eggshelled layer off a single coat of finish. Also removes your paint runs and drips.

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UB...=1&t=009193&p=

[dmede]

I have not used cabinet scrapers for final smoothing of epoxy but I have used a good quality paint scraper to remove cured epoxy drips and high spots. Followed up with light sanding to finish. It has worked great. A little heat can be added for major goo scaping.

dave

[landlocked sailor]

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt088.asp
I got some good tips by watching this video clip by Brian Boggs. Rick

[Mrleft8]

A bunch of years back there was an article in FWW magazine by Monroe Robinson, which I consider to be the pentultimate.
I use scrapers a lot, but never on epoxy. A properly sharpened scraper requires no sanding after.

[George Roberts]

razor blade works as well.

[Ron Williamson]

I use a 1 1/2" paint scraper,properly sharpened and burnished, for levelling, smoothing and sometimes, actually scraping paint.
It is the most commonly used tool in the shop aside from my pencil.
R

[Rod Tait]

There isn't a day that goes by without someone in the shop having a cabinet scraper in their hands. Cuts down on the noise and dust and saves a lot on sandpaper. We will scrape whole kayaks before going to the orbital sander and wet paper in prep for varnish.

A set of cabinet scrapers is one of the first things I would recommend to a first time builder to buy if they are going to be using epoxy. Best to buy a good quality steel. Cheaper ones will hourglass in less hours and require more honing. I like Veritas from Lee Valley. A good carbide paint scraper in a solid handle goes a long way also.

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

I started using scrapers on a lark. Wanted to do what the old timers did. Eventually, I came to use scrapers more and sandpaper less.
Since I work much of the year in the basement I prefer scrapers because the scrapings fall to the floor and don't get airborn.
I have one Swedish scraper and a handfull of homebrew ones made from pieces of spring steel.
For something as soft as freshly cured epoxy I just drawfile the edges. If I'm attacking some hardwood with knots etc. or anything that needs good appearence I get out the diamond stones and the burnisher.
I'm finishing up an 8' S&G pram and I'm amazed at hope much time is spent with a scraper in my hand.
I'm contemplating getting a small table that would hold all my scrapers and the parafanalia needed to redo edges so that I wouldn't have to move away from the job constantly.
Charlie

[B. Darrah Thomas]

I truly love the results of scraper v. epoxy. I burnish my scrapers well, & flex for use as I would on hardwood. I follow with 220 wet & 320 wet for best results. Best part is gone are the hours of noisy RO sanding in a stuffy rubber lined dust mask.

[Wild Wassa]

I use a Linbide 50mm general purpose scraper and a Linbide 12 or 15mm (I should measure the exact size) corner scraper as my cabinet scrapers. Linbide are made in New Zealand. I also make my own scrapers from glass for getting into tricky spots. The third bought scraper that I use is an Oldfield's painting tool.

I like the Linbide blades, they are reversable for pushing or pulling and you just turn the blades upside down to change cutting edges. The blades are $11AU (about $8 trade) per blade, for both Linbide scrapers. It is nothing to go through 2-3 blades in a morning (both sides), the stutter describes all.

I don't scrape just to prepare a surface to paint I scrape everything at times, even topcoats if it's needed. The scraper as a finishing tool requires very sharp blades otherwise there is no point.

Warren.

[ 03-19-2005, 02:06 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]