The start on a kayak

[W Grabow]

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Not a real serious kayak, or is it just a narrow boat? This is for my wife to play with. I wanted something not too big and hard to handle, also with decent stability. It will be 28" W, 14" high, and 170" long.

The only 'strongback' used was an 8' 2x4 that the central six feet of keel was clamped to, that and some sawhorses. A lot of 'work' ahead; okay, it is not work, I love it!

[koederfischgriller]

nice! skin on frame?

[W Grabow]

nice! skin on frame?

I have no experience with SOF. It certainly could be sheathed that way, but shouldn't the frames be closer together? I have the dimensions to double the number of frames. I came up with this design using developable surface concepts, and read Ted Moores' book, KayakCraft, while considering the design. I plan to strip plank it, using wider strips in flat sections and narrower strips where there is greater curvature.

Being a bit shorter and wider than typical kayaks, perhaps it is simply a decked canoe. Whatever, I think my wife will like it.

[Etdbob]

Just over 14' long?

That's still a kayak.

My wife has a "recreational" rotomolded kayak that's shorter than that. She bought it so she could have a boat she can easily carry and load into the car by herself, so she doesn't need me along!

There is allot to be said for handy little boats. I'd say that boat of yours is going to be a real little beauty. Certainly faster that (and much less stable than) the hordes of plastic recreational kayaks one sees all over the place these days.

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(Y'all will have to excuse me for posting a photo of a plastic boat here!)

[W Grabow]

We were on vacation in Panama at a resort where they furnished each of us one of those plastic kayaks plus snorkeling gear. My wife enjoyed it enough to ask for a kayak, but I can't bring myself to build something quite that short and squatty. She should be able to sit lower in the new hull which will aid stability.

[Etdbob]

I bet it will be lighter than a rotomolded boat too, and I know she will enjoy that, putting it on top of the car and launching it!

I generally consider those plastic boats as little more than water bugs, but truth be told, I have had fun in them myself.

I'm going to pay close attention to this thread as you cover the hull, I am kinda dreaming of making a light strip built canoe myself.

[Woxbox]

Looks like a nice start. I've found that the preoccupation with the speed potential of kayaks is totally beside the point for most paddlers, who never push their boats hard to begin with. Comfort and ease of handling win the day. One caution with wide and deep kayaks is that they can be awkward to paddle -- the knuckles can contact the deck every now and then. This boat will probably be stable enough to take a relatively (for a kayak) high and comfortable seat, which should alleviate the issue. I'm following with interest!

[W Grabow]

I know my wife will not be testing the speed potential, but she would like the extra cushion of thicker (higher) seat. This is my 12th boat build, but the closest design to a kayak. I used to build with plywood (on bigger hulls) but am now interested in what can be done with narrow planking. This is my previous build.

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[W Grabow]

A lot of work with little to show for it. I have faired the frames and stems, added a stringer and routed the edge of the keel to support the future garboard. I made a cardboard pattern of the bilge area to help in laying out the planking. Next, I start creating planks. But there will be a big pause as we will be elsewhere for six weeks.

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[W Grabow]

Looks like a nice start. I've found that the preoccupation with the speed potential of kayaks is totally beside the point for most paddlers, who never push their boats hard to begin with. Comfort and ease of handling win the day. One caution with wide and deep kayaks is that they can be awkward to paddle -- the knuckles can contact the deck every now and then. This boat will probably be stable enough to take a relatively (for a kayak) high and comfortable seat, which should alleviate the issue. I'm following with interest!

The truth of your comment has been on my mind since I first read it. Now that the entire framework is together, I am able to sit in the hull and envision paddling it. Also, I have made some cardboard planking patterns and am starting to cut planking stock. The deep (12" at the center) hull will allow for easier access and more under deck storage, but also adds weight and windage. Slightly raised seating will improve the paddling position but reduce stability. If I were to start anew, I would reduce the hull depth by 2.5 inches.

That is the risk when trying something new and original with limited experience. But what I learn, can be incorporated into another building project. Seeing the hull frame, my wife says she would prefer a shorter 12' length, which agrees with your comment about 'speed potential'. We may end up with his and her hulls.

Thank you for your comment and advice.

[P.I. Stazzer-Newt]

I have no experience with SOF. It certainly could be sheathed that way, but shouldn't the frames be closer together?

Skin on frame is a collection of different techniques, some of which use many frames (ribs?) But some use remarkably few, notably those which use plywood frames and timber stringers.

Usually the fabric touches only the stringers.


Good examples can be seen here. https://www.kayarchy.co.uk/html/09ar...0boats%201.htm

[W Grabow]

P.I. Stazzer-Newt: Thanks for your interest. For SOF all I would need to do is add more closely spaced stringers. I enjoyed the selection of examples you provided. However, I am now committed to wooden planking with 1.5" by 0.2" cross section planks. In what is probably unusual, I am using knotty alder wood. I cut out the significant knots and other defects and then scarf the pieces together into 15' planks. My chop saw is set to provide smooth and consistent 7-degree tapers for very smooth scarf joints. The alder is otherwise pleasant to use.