Optimising the Installation of an Electrical Windlass

[carioca1232001]

Have just completed the basic installation procedure of a vertical windlass - Lewmar Pro-Series - on the fore-deck of my 1962 motor-cruiser.

The rode - 15 metres of galvanised chain (anchor end) + 70 metres of 1/2" nylon 3-strand - enters the fore-peak some 10 centimetres aft of frame 1 the first frame aft of the boat´s stem; an "anchor-locker" was fashioned out of polycarbonate (PC) sheeting atop a SS frame affixed between frame 1 and frame 2.

The bottom of the "anchor locker" PC-sheeting/SS structure resembles a trapezium viz., 35 cms (front) x 60 cms (rear) x 45 cms in-between.

On emptying the "anchor locker", the vertical distance between the entry point of the rode and said PC sheeting is 60 cms ( the windlass manufacturer stipulates a minimum of 30 cms clearance between the fully retrieved "pile" and said entry point).

However on retrieving the rode fully - 70 metres rope + 15 metres chain - the top of the "pile" is only 20 cms distant from the entry point above, composed nearly exclusively of chain, leading to some concern about operational issues that may arise not long from now; bear in mind that currently only 50 % of the trapezoidal base is being utilised, the rest only marginally.

As such the following remedial measures - individually or some combination of the same - spring to mind, not that these have been thought out carefully, but nevertheless here goes :

- install a piece of PC sheeting, some 30 cms high, meeting the base at the current point of contact (10 cms aft of frame 1) and incline it to contact frame 1, in order for the rode to slide/bounce-off and "land more squarely" on the bottom PC sheeting;

- install an inclined pipe of short length (10 cms max.) and shape - could well be critical - at the current point of entry above, effectively shifting the entry point some 10-15 cms aft of the present position, totting up to 20/25 cms aft of frame 1;

- tilt the aft-end of the anchor locker base some 5/10 degrees down from the horizontal (square), to coax the rode to slide backwards, thereby making better use of the available space;

Hopefully the learned, experienced salts on here will offer some input !

[Woxbox]

I would try the last suggestion first -- slope the bottom of the locker to encourage the rode to slide aft and flake itself back there. The line has to run free when you set the anchor, of course, and I'd be concerned that any structure added up high could cause a snag.

[gypsie]

Maybe a bit of A and C?
Gal chain tends to climb up, not fall over as it mounds up inside the locker.

That diverter sheet could knock the tip over, or, once the chain climbs to that height it cascades over to the other side of the sheeting.

You've given me an idea....

[Ron Williamson]

Someone here suggested a traffic cone planted directly below the deck pipe would keep a rode from piling up.
R

[wizbang 13]

Have just completed the basic installation procedure of a vertical windlass - Lewmar Pro-Series - on the fore-deck of my 1962 motor-cruiser.

The rode - 15 metres of galvanised chain (anchor end) + 70 metres of 1/2" nylon 3-strand - enters the fore-peak some 10 centimetres aft of frame 1 the first frame aft of the boat´s stem; an "anchor-locker" was fashioned out of polycarbonate (PC) sheeting atop a SS frame affixed between frame 1 and frame 2.

The bottom of the "anchor locker" PC-sheeting/SS structure resembles a trapezium viz., 35 cms (front) x 60 cms (rear) x 45 cms in-between.

On emptying the "anchor locker", the vertical distance between the entry point of the rode and said PC sheeting is 60 cms ( the windlass manufacturer stipulates a minimum of 30 cms clearance between the fully retrieved "pile" and said entry point).

However on retrieving the rode fully - 70 metres rope + 15 metres chain - the top of the "pile" is only 20 cms distant from the entry point above, composed nearly exclusively of chain, leading to some concern about operational issues that may arise not long from now; bear in mind that currently only 50 % of the trapezoidal base is being utilised, the rest only marginally.

As such the following remedial measures - individually or some combination of the same - spring to mind, not that these have been thought out carefully, but nevertheless here goes :

- install a piece of PC sheeting, some 30 cms high, meeting the base at the current point of contact (10 cms aft of frame 1) and incline it to contact frame 1, in order for the rode to slide/bounce-off and "land more squarely" on the bottom PC sheeting;

- install an inclined pipe of short length (10 cms max.) and shape - could well be critical - at the current point of entry above, effectively shifting the entry point some 10-15 cms aft of the present position, totting up to 20/25 cms aft of frame 1;

- tilt the aft-end of the anchor locker base some 5/10 degrees down from the horizontal (square), to coax the rode to slide backwards, thereby making better use of the available space;

Hopefully the learned, experienced salts on here will offer some input !

I could not follow most of this but….
The swap from chain to rope is gonna be a bitch , always has been and always will be . The fancy splice will not be renewed in time , they never are . Use all chain or fugetaboutit… imo.
Mount the windlass as far aft as you can … further .

[shortboot]

I put a remote control on a horizontal windless with a anchor roller and all chain to a below deck locker, worked pretty slick but noisy. Had to be careful when plow anchor stopped in roller. A lot going on when it reached the anchor holder and chain was fully retracted.

[Dan McCosh]

Can't quite picture the problem with clearance, but we use 100 ft. of chain, before a spliced on line. Have yet to use the nylon rode, which would take some mucking about clear the capstan. The chain portion has never been a problem with piling or jamming.

[John B]

Hey C, getting a chain or rope jam in the windlass is a total pain , its cost me big in the past.
I wouldn't use pipe, the issue with the 'pile' is often a hockle where the chain knuckles up and forms the equivalent of a knot ,and that clearance above the pile is wanted to mitigate that. That can happen on deck as well as you're no doubt aware, on our boat its an automatic / reflex for us to straighten the chain away from the windlass on deck ,something that occurs when we retrieve up tight and then back off a fraction to un tighten the chain/ anchor / fairlead dynamic. I've busted the fleming/ stripper with a chain hockle before now( Simpson lawrence / Lewmar sprint 3000 vertical windlass, a great but flawed malaise era product with a plastic stripper)
When the gear is new it does take up more room( which is the issue) so perhaps coiling down the first 20 metres or so of rode will compact it to gain some room.
What happens with us( the same except all chain) is we anchor in a range of depth that sees us use 20 or 25 metres 95 out of a hundred times .
Then a storm or a deep anchorage might raise its head and we use 50 or 70 metres. With those we then get the same problem, because the settled chain has been disturbed and just takes more room up going back in. Having two access hatches , we just bring in 20 metres when leaving and give it a shake up and settle. Then retrieve the rest.

As I said, coiling and packing the emergency/ high wind /bitter end might well gain you the space you need, and some settling as it ages and compacts itself probably will too.

edit , I looked up Pro series but they only show horizontal windlasses. A small thing, doesn't make any difference to what we're talking about.