I would search for another design with the features you seek rather than make a major change like that.
Get the Harry Sucher Book on simplified Boat building (the Flat Bottom Version)
To my eye the tunnel looks like a key feature of the design. It allows the motor to run shallower and keeps the boat from sliding sideways uncontrollably. All the clamming boats at Cedar Key have it.
No. That would be a very significant alteration.
-Dave
Thank You for the response. I'm not concerned with the draft benefited via the tunnel as the water I navigate will accommodate the added draw. I will have 4 stringers running the length of the hull to cut a groove, the top speed being 20 mph at best slip/slide will be minimal? Considering the aforementioned, is there additional hydrodynamic structural benefit to the tunnel? Thanks again.
Thanks John, I have been searching for a design similar in scope. The plan I came up with is not based on a proven working vessel as I am unable to find the exacting design specifications. I have time and will obtain the structural specifics prior to the build. Thanks Again.
Thank You, I will check out Harry's Book.
Hello Dave, I'm gathering info with time to nail it down before I move on the build, the plan above is my starting point. Thanks for the response.
What may not be obvious is that the stability of a hull like that is altered significantly if it doesn't have that tunnel down the center. You might think of the design as a semi-catamaran. The displacement is focused on the outer sides of the hull to create high initial stability. Given the intended use -- to be a very stable platform for people in wheelchairs -- I don't think you want to compromise this point of the design.
At the same time, there's no reason to be intimidated by the construction. It could hardly be more straight-forward.
-Dave
It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.
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Hello Dave, Thanks, It would be an easy build, similar to a Garvey, the go to work vessel dominant as the work horse of the Bay, built by those who worked the Bay. I farm Oysters using floating gear, the Bird Dog design is appropriate. I need to ascertain the specifics of the well tunnel configuration. I have a tunnel drive 23' Penn Yan that I initially worked the lease with, it proved to be the wrong boat. Aside from that, the tunnel is cantankerous, bio-fouling or excessive adhesive on the prop shroud will immobilize the craft. I did order as per the advise above, Harry Sucher Book on simplified Boat building (the Flat Bottom Version). Thanks again.
Kevin, your last post reminded me that the clamming boats at Cedar Key all live on trailers, because there's almost no available dockage in Cedar Key. Thus they don't have problems with fouling in the tunnel, since they haul out after every trip to their leases.
Hello Rob,
My concern is getting the well/tunnel dimensions right, Thanks for checking in. Hopefully Harry Sucher's book on constructing flat bottom boats will cover the subject? I'm in the water year round working the lease, it is my good fortune to have a dock at my home.
I think that it answers all of your questions, basic dimensions, shape of panels, flare, scantlings.
The photos on this http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...at-mullet-boat thread will confirm the proportions of the tunnel.
It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.
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Thank You very much, Kevin