Joining inhales to knees and breasthook

[Psalm107]

I have an 8' lapstrake FG rowing/sailing dinghy. I am installing in and out wales and wondering what the best way to join them to the knees and breast hook?
The wood I am using is silver boly....(that is what the seller told me and looks kind of like teak. 1/2". X 1.5" x 8'.

I steamed them in visqueen bags against a frame and it worked great.

Thanks,

Bruce

[Peerie Maa]

I would let the inwales in like these:


https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/5433/

Out wales would normally be screwed or nailed on, with fastenings long enough to go right through and grip into the knees.

[TerryLL]

P1010014.jpg

These laminated inwales are in two pieces to get the proper thickness. the first strip is square-notched into the breasthook and the second strip is cut at an angle to blend smoothly into the breasthook curvature. The wood is sapele, which was too stiff to bend in one piece and doesn't steam bend well.

[Breakaway]

You notch the breasthook and knees for the inwales.
Because of the flare of the sides and angle of the transom, these will not be square notches. You need to create a rolling bevel so that the inwale meets and lands properly on the knee or 'hook. For me that meant a lot of trial and error, sneaking up on it, making a few passes with achisel and then trying a dry fit on the boat. Repeat and repeat until its right.

I found the process fun, but slow and challenging, when I built my skiff. Others here with more building experience can likely provide better description.

Good luck.

Kevin

[TerryLL]

You notch the breasthook and knees for the inwales.
Because of the flare of the sides and angle of the transom, these will not be square notches. You need to create a rolling bevel so that the inwale meets and lands properly on the knee or 'hook. For me that meant a lot of trial and error, sneaking up on it, making a few passes with achisel and then trying a dry fit on the boat. Repeat and repeat until its right.

I found the process fun, but slow and challenging, when I built my skiff. Others here with more building experience can likely provide better description.

Good luck.

Kevin

That's just how it's done. It takes a lot of fidgety trial and error to get those angles just so. Epoxy is amazing stuff, but it won't hide major gaposis in the brightwork.

[Psalm107]

Thank you guys. It was inwales not inhales.
Also, if I use a 1" x 1" hardwood for my spacers between my fiberglass and my inwales, then it will match my knees and my future breast hook. Having trouble finding the spacers.(I do not have a table saw). Will this setup make rowing harder than if I attached my inhale directly to the glass?

Thanks,

Bruce

[Breakaway]

Thank you guys. It was inwales not inhales.
Also, if I use a 1" x 1" hardwood for my spacers between my fiberglass and my inwales, then it will match my knees and my future breast hook. Having trouble finding the spacers.(I do not have a table saw). Will this setup make rowing harder than if I attached my inhale directly to the glass?

Thanks,

Bruce

Your oarlock sockets will mount on a pad, installed atop the inwales. Whether you use spacers or not will not affect rowing. The sockets will be in the same place either way.

Kevin


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[Psalm107]

Ok, I built my knees and breast hook and in whales and outwhales, but after making some adjustments ended up short on the in whales, both sides. Now I have a 1/4" gap at the knees.

I am considering re making my knees to make up for my bo bo.

Any thoughts on how to cut the inhales just at the right place?

Thanks again,

Bruce

[John Meachen]

It isn't hard.Basically you begin by achieving a good fit at one end of the boat and wrapping the piece perhaps two thirds of the way round the boat.At the last point where it sits nicely,you make a pencil mark on both the boat and the new inwale.Remove the inwale from the boat and locate it as far aft as it will comfortably go.Note the distance between the pencil marks you made earlier.Hint-the mark on the inwale needs to be forward of the mark on the hull and the distance between the marks is the amount you need to remove.If in doubt,do it in a couple of stages.

[Psalm107]

I made 2 new knees out of lignin ( I think) and everything fits really good and tight.

Thanks guys,

Bruce

[wizbang 13]

An eight foot fiberglass dingy… do em anyhow you like , invent something new !
There is no need to follow convention and make it look like an eighteen foot timber whitehall . That is just theatre.

[Peerie Maa]

I made 2 new knees out of lignin ( I think) and everything fits really good and tight.

Thanks guys,

Bruce

all wood is lignin .
If you are thinking of Lignum Vitae , I seriously doubt that it was.