Epoxy primer over solid wood

[moprince]

Greetings all,

Can any one recommend for or against using epoxy primer over solid wood? I'm talking specifically about the two part epoxy primers like the ones offered by System Three and Petit as opposed to an actual coating of "regular" epoxy. I am nearing the primer stage of my Gartside Garvey build, and am trying to decide between an oil primer and epoxy. The advantage of the epoxy primer for me is the lower VOCs, and maybe added protection over an oil primer. The hull itself is glassed already, although the shoes and outwales are not. I am aware that a primer is not necessary over the glassed areas, however I prefer to use primers to fill in the very small imperfections left behind. My biggest concern with the epoxy primer is that it may not penetrate deep enough into the solid wood portions, and may not keep up with the seasonal movement of the solid wood areas. If leaning in the oil direction, can anyone recommend a lower VOC primer? On my last build I used the petit EZ Prime high build primer and the solvents seemed to travel through our entire building. I'll be using Epifanes or Kirby topside enamel as a topcoat.

Thanks everyone,

Matt

[Slacko]

I use epoxy primer under everything.
My thinking is that it penetrates as well as anything else as I've never had topcoat paint fail, either 2 pot or oil based.
It dries quick as well, so you can get coats on quicker.
Forum members seem to report oil based paint fails where they haven't allowed the epoxy to cure for an extended time, and then the oil based paints don't harden properly.
I've sanded fresh epoxy, epoxy primed the same day, and then overcoated with oil based paints the day after with no reaction.

[Priscilla]

I reach for epoxy sealer as first coats on bare timber above or below the waterline and then follow with epoxy primer regardless wether the top coat is single or two pack.

[wizbang 13]

I’m a big fan of Interlux 2000.
Over bare wood, over epoxy resin, between CPES and top coat, as a final coat on decks.
big fan
keeping up with “seasonal movement” maybe more about construction technique and wood species.

[emf]

I’m a big fan of Interlux 2000.
Over bare wood, over epoxy resin, between CPES and top coat, as a final coat on decks.
big fan

Interlux 2000 leaves a orange peel texture. Do you sand it down before you topcoat? I have found I end up sanding most of it off to get it smooth.

[dbp1]

The System 3 stuff says to coat bare wood with epoxy, then use the primer. Any reason you don't want to do that? Epoxy is low VOC too!

[Geftb]

Interlux 2000 leaves a orange peel texture. Do you sand it down before you topcoat? I have found I end up sanding most of it off to get it smooth.

the best way i have found to deal with this is to spray it on. Wet on wet you can get several coats and the sanding does not leave hundreds of dollars worth of paint on the ground.

[Clinton B Chase]

Matt,
Read the Primer instructions and tech sheet and follow them to the T. Two coats of SilverTip Epoxy or Clear Coat (also S3), sand it to 120-150 grit, then go ahead and apply 2-3 coats of the Primer. You can recoat the primer every 2-3 hrs without sanding which is a beautiful thing but I have recoated sooner as long as you are not coating heavily. Sand the primer to 220 before going to topside paint.

[wizbang 13]

Interlux 2000 leaves a orange peel texture. Do you sand it down before you topcoat? I have found I end up sanding most of it off to get it smooth.

No it don’t. For me at least .

[Slacko]

I use International brand 2 pot primer, which is the same as Interlux.
Also don't have a problem with orange peel that requires heavy sanding.
I do sand with 120 or something as prep for next coat.

[Clinton B Chase]

We called the Interlux and Pettit 2-parts "stinky paints". They are stinky.

The System 3 product is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy nicer to use - water bases, no VOCs, and smooth and a very durable substrate for 1-part paint.

[dbp1]

We called the Interlux and Pettit 2-parts "stinky paints". They are stinky.

The System 3 product is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy nicer to use - water bases, no VOCs, and smooth and a very durable substrate for 1-part paint.

it’s technically not one part, right? The ratio is wildly in favor of one, but there are drops of a second part that you add…

[JimConlin]

We called the Interlux and Pettit 2-parts "stinky paints". They are stinky.

The System 3 product is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy nicer to use - water bases, no VOCs, and smooth and a very durable substrate for 1-part paint.

The Jamestown epoxy primer and their epoxy barrier coat are not as stinky.

[wizbang 13]

We called the Interlux and Pettit 2-parts "stinky paints". They are stinky.

The System 3 product is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy nicer to use - water bases, no VOCs, and smooth and a very durable substrate for 1-part paint.

how does it sand ?

[Clinton B Chase]

wizbang,
good question. I have learned to never let it cure for more than a few days because it gets very tough to sand - I sanded a primed boat two weeks later and it was like sanding steel.

If sanded within a couple days, it sands like butter.

[wizbang 13]

I mean said OFF down the road .
Ease of application may be dis ease of removal.
Will it make dust or goo?
Will it gum up the disc?
Is there a chemical remover for it?

[Clinton B Chase]

It makes dust if you mix it right.
It will not gum disc if you mix it right and don't sand too early.
Chemical remover???? Not that I'm aware of. Why would you need to chemically remove it?
Primer is to sand and paint over, right?