Thought I'd share some stuff. Most of you probably already know all this, but I'll toss it out anyway:

1) Trailer wheels are torqued to pretty high numbers - higher than most cars. Do you have a lug wrench that's big enough to get a wheel undone by the side of the road? The 15" wheels on my boat trailer took everything I had with an 18" breaker bar. Mine matched the 90-120 spec below (thanks ETrailer.com!) - but whoever mounted the wheels obviously pounded them way too tight with an impact wrench as I had to do the same thing to get them off. I gave up on the breaker bar & used an impact to loosen them, then greased the threads & put 'em back with a torque wrench. Don't forget to check the bearing adjustment, grease, and tire pressures while you're at it.




2) Axles: Whenever I buy a trailer, I always check the axle alignment. I've been shocked how far off they can be - on my newest (to me) trailer, the axle was about 2 inches out of true and my 22 ft equipment trailer was even more. To check, get a tape measure (a second person helps too) & measure from the coupler to where the axle attaches to the spring. An out of true axle not only wears tires & bearings faster, but can also cause squirrely handling - particularly at higher speeds.

The alignment can be adjusted several ways depending on the trailer. On my big trailer, I had to cut & reweld the spring mounts - not a small job. On my "new" boat trailer, I was able to loosen U bolts where the springs attach to the frame & move them. Make sure you loosen both sides so springs aren't forced out of alignment with the mounts. After re-aligning, check the measurements again, as things can shift.

When checking these things, it doesn't hurt to check the coupler & make sure it's tight enough (adjust with the nut underneath unless you have a Bulldog style coupler) & also make sure your safety chains are in good shape & mounted securely.

Thus endeth today's lesson - hope it helps!