Just returned from a cruise circumnavigating Isle Royale on Lk Superior in the DuNORD
So WI-Tom advises I should tell y'awl about our wonderful adventure around Isle Royale instead of posting in the Bilge. We towed from Rockford to Grand Portage, MN (Hochunk rez), then launched for the 25mi trip out to Windigo at the SW end of IR. Following a couple of years of erratic engine temps with our 45 yr-old 35hp V-P MD17C we were gratified to find that the new thermostat would keep coolant temp centered solidly in the green running for hours at 2000rpm (8mph). Everywhere we went on land or lake we would encounter folks enthusiastic about our boat. Designed for Baltic and North Sea waters, our Albin just looks right at home on Lk Superior. Our CLC Eastport pram used to be vital equipment when we cruised with our dog. However, Ginger's passing last Spring, along with the total banning of pets on IR rendered the DUE SOUTH a useless appendage except for transporting a pair of 5gal Diesel jugs. One jug was full of Diesel, the other empty for storing grey water, as the Nat'l Park Service rules require cruisers dump grey water offshore more than 4mi, or carry it home. Turned out that our empty 1gal water jugs were entirely adequate so we could have left that jug at home. We never cruised 4mi offshore, so all the grey water came back to Illinois. So did the jugs of urine from Nature's Head composting toilet.
Our overnight stop in Siskiwit Bay was interesting because of the seven boats moored on the excellent concrete and steel pier, we were the only cruiser. The others were all sport fishermen with crews of 4-6 guys. One of them shared a goodly portion of fresh grilled Lake Trout along with potatoes, carrots and onions. Excellent eating! BTW, our own menu is kept very basic: instant oatmeal, fruit juice, and coffee for breakfast, sandwiches and beer for lunch, and a one-pot Knor "just add water and bring to a boil" entre and wine for supper. We still use the same propane-fired gimballed stove I made for our Dovekie in 1983. Not adding any fats (or very little) makes it possible to clean dinnerware with hot water only (no soap) which helps the grey water situation greatly. As they say, we eat to cruise, not cruise to eat. The Skipper does all of the cooking and cleanup, because the Mate likes to use soap.
Y'awl will wonder why no pics. Well, the Nat'l Park Service advises there is no cell phone service on IR, so I left my phone in the truck. Gayle took fome photos on her phone, but lost it somewhere on the way home. Turned out there was WIFI service at the Rock Harbor Marine (if you went to the area near a specific building) and it was there that we learned of the passing of one of Gayle's BIL's (first marriage) so the funeral altered our plans for the trip home. While at Rock Harbor we tried a hike out to the bare rock NE point of IR, but had to turn back after a couple of miles because it turned out to be more strenuous than our experience doing it 16 years previously.
IR is famous for its wolf and moose. In 2017 the wolf population was down to a pair in poor health due to age, so the NPS imported 17 new wolves from two different locations out west. They now number 25, roaming in two packs with a couple of loners. The moose herd had grown to over 2000 when the wolves were scarce, but they now number about 1300. The new wolves tend to be 10-15 lbs larger than previously, and are a bit less shy when it comes to human visitors. They will also swim out to outlying islands, something the old population never did. A healthy youngish moose can easily fight off wolves. We saw neither wolf nor moose, but did see a Bald Eagle roosting on a spit of rock along with some gulls. We were told that the animal defecating on the dock by out boat at Windigo was "the fox", who has a habit of doing so.
There was generally some light to moderate wind each day on Lk Superior and we found that the 2' waves abeam would "rock the boat" more than we had ever exprienced at places like the North Channel. Taking them on the bow or stern quarters was tolerable. Albin-25's are known to roll when provoked.
This was our first real cruise with the Garmin Chart Plotter and we wondered how we had ever gotten along without one before. The answer is that our former cruising vessel, a 28' Shearwater Yawl by Edey & Duff, drew only 6" of water with her leeboards up and so shoal water was never a problem.
The last 25 miles of IR's NW shore (circumnavigating) is formidable with an onshore breeze. There is no harbor of refuge, so we were greatly gratified that the old V-P was finally exhibiting some dependability. We began the cruise with 25gal of Diesel in the Albin's tank along with 5gal in a jug. We added the 5gal to the boat's tank at Rock Harbor and still had something in excess of 1/4-tank when we returned to the ramp at Grand Portage.
Back at Grand Portage we discovered that one of the four trailer tires was flat. No problem, just a bit of delay in departing as we have a spare and everything needed for a wheel change in the truck. The road trip down through Wixconsin on 53 was remarkable, driving into the backside of the absolute worst thunderstorm we have ever experienced. Lightening (mostly cloud-to-cloud) illuminated the road from every direction almost continuously. This turned out to be a good thing because about 3:00 am the headlights began to flicker out, so we stopped at Toma until dawn in order to continue in daylight.
Two things one will never encounter around Isle Royale, pontoon boats nor PWC's. Go there; the waters are never crowded.
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by Paul Denison
