Look Familiar?

[sp_clark]

RF3133.jpg

I bought one of these things the other day, thinking it may alleviate some "uncertainties" as to how my tiller extension is connected to the rudder arm on my Waterlust canoe. Presently I'm simply lashing it, but there's got to be a better way.

What would be of immense help is a pic of an actual user's installation, so I can see how the bits in the bag they sent are to be affixed to the various steering-related bits (that are inconveniently) well out of reach when I'm out innit.

Any and all replies welcome....

[Hwyl]

I’ve bought them with the extension already fitted.
The oblong piece is screwed or riveted to the tiller. The T shaped piece slides into the tennon and the escutcheon holds them together. Then you need some aluminum tube of the correct diameter to Slide Over the male part ( think genie in the bottle ). Then a retaining pin through the aluminum.

[sp_clark]

OK so the oblong piece (base, with two screw holes) gets mounted on the forward-facing side of a rudder arm (there are two on this design, port & starboard, so maybe both?) then the T-shaped piece slides into the tenon (you mean mortise?) on said oblong part, the escutcheon doing the securing of parts? Hmmm....

I'll prolly fathom all this once I take the dang thing apart, see what it looks like under the cable-tie-wrapped mortised (slotted base thingy) bit.

(Dunno whether DW would accept it as a return if the 'packaging' it was supplied with is violated... Scott's been pretty understanding before.)

The main point is that that round bit is intended to face forward, so the tiller extension requires a bore (the aluminum tube you mention; my extension's wood) to accept the round tenon piece that then is secured somehow so it doesn't pull out under duress?

Another builder's pics of how he lashed his extension to a tiller arm:

Tiller-lashing.jpg

I'm looking to achieve something more mechanical, quicker to fit when making ready to launch.

[JimConlin]

I’ve been packratting a carbon fiber golf club shaft for my next tiller extension. It’s tidy, quiet, strong and has a spiffy grip.. Can be painted if you like. Just needs a couple of inches of glass tube to ferrule the hinge gizmo. Ask your local golf pro shop.

[WI-Tom]

Duckworks sells some inexpensive Racelite fittings for a tiller extension--they seem much simpler and sturdier (maybe) than the one in the OP.

https://duckworks.com/racelite-tiller-extension-swivel/

Somewhere around $15. I use on on my boat, and it works fine.

Tom

[Ron Williamson]

OK so the oblong piece (base, with two screw holes) gets mounted on the forward-facing side of a rudder arm (there are two on this design, port & starboard, so maybe both?) then the T-shaped piece slides into the tenon (you mean mortise?) on said oblong part, the escutcheon doing the securing of parts? Hmmm....

I'll prolly fathom all this once I take the dang thing apart, see what it looks like under the cable-tie-wrapped mortised (slotted base thingy) bit.

(Dunno whether DW would accept it as a return if the 'packaging' it was supplied with is violated... Scott's been pretty understanding before.)

The main point is that that round bit is intended to face forward, so the tiller extension requires a bore (the aluminum tube you mention; my extension's wood) to accept the round tenon piece that then is secured somehow so it doesn't pull out under duress?

Another builder's pics of how he lashed his extension to a tiller arm:

Tiller-lashing.jpg

I'm looking to achieve something more mechanical, quicker to fit when making ready to launch.

The U- shaped base gets screwed to the top of the tiller , so the flexible part would stick up if there were nothing attached to the free end.
The flex joint stays bent 90 degrees for most of its working life.
R

[sp_clark]

Duckworks sells some inexpensive Racelite fittings for a tiller extension--they seem much simpler and sturdier (maybe) than the one in the OP.

Thanks Tom, I'd considered that but felt it may not be quite as well suited for disconnecting extension before / after use. The concept of a Quick Connect design, for about the same price, won me over.

Awaiting word back from Ronstan.US tech support presently after sending them the same pic I posted earlier of what tiller arm & extension look like.

[Don Z.]

OK, I think I understand it.

Check out the second pic in this link:
https://www.dotan.com/de/shop/tiller...niversal-joint

The base piece screws into the tiller..

The second piece slots into the oblong hole. Then the cover snaps on. This covers the screws, and if you snap it off you can remove the extension.

The part that "sticks up" goes into a recess in the tiller. The pic shows a sheer pin of some sort to hold it there. All together, it will stick straight up, but the "upright" is flexible enough that it will bend, putting the extension where you will need it.

The "airfoil looking shape" is a puzzle to me. Is it a flexible piece of rubber, maybe shrink wrap like, that will cover the joint between the extension and the fitting?

[John Meachen]

The plastic universal joints are simple and reliable.What you may need to do is to use a tubular tiller extension or an adaptor with a tubular end section.I use a similar joint,with a braided line through the middle as a safety factor,and it is mounted on a curved plastic spacer to fit my tubular tiller.No metal alternative is as positive or as light in weight so I believe the OP made a good choice.

[Ron Williamson]

IMG_1938.jpg

In use.

Pretty sure that the airfoil shaped part represents the tiller extension(the top part in this pic)
R

[Hwyl]

The tiller extension is vertical at rest or at least flopped over. You are making it hard on yourself.. Every racing dinghy has one of these.

[sp_clark]

Ronstan's answer included a link to their line of CF tiller extensions which revealed the missing bit about how the T-ended round tenon mates with their extensions. The supplied shrink tube is to secure one to the other, I assume overlapping onto the pinchwaisted end between T-end and round tenon.

I'm going to use it once I've drilled out a suitable diameter bore in the end of my wooden tiller extension. Have to use a fastener of some kind to secure the adapter's tenon unless I do something with epoxy & 'glass to make my extension more closely resemble what Ronstan's belled-ended CF tubes provide, maybe making use of the included SS dowel pin possible.

IMG_1938.jpg

In use.

Pretty sure that the airfoil shaped part represents the tiller extension(the top part in this pic)

Thanks Ron. The joint kit I received resembles what your pic shows, with the exception of the section between the tiller extension. In your pic I think an alloy one? That SS pin's end is showing (may be where that comes into play) then the shrink tube's used to secure it?

What I have is pinch-waisted between T-end and the round tenon intended to slip into a CF tube's belled end. There's no bore in that tenon, but that's attended to easily enough for my needs.

[AndanteEd]

Start from step 1 (at the bottom) and gradually work up...

Tiller extension.jpg

This may give a bit more detail if needed:

https://www.instructables.com/Replac...ler-Extension/

[sp_clark]

That link where you snagged your posted image? Yes, if I’d had that before I started this thread it woulda saved bocoop bandwith! I may ‘forward’ a copy to Scott @ DW for their web page description… adds a lot of useful info the picture itself lacks.

[AndanteEd]

That link where you snagged your posted image?

I just took your image and added a few words around the side. My son's Optimist tiller extension has the same set-up which I had to replace a couple of months back.

I may ‘forward’ a copy to Scott @ DW for their web page description… adds a lot of useful info the picture itself lacks.

Feel free to forward it to whoever you want for whatever purposes they decide.

At the moment the only place anyone will find it is on your very own WBF thread...

I'm glad it was of some use

Ed