EPIFANES Clear Gloss Varnish
PETTIT Flagship High Build Varnish 2015
PETTIT Captain's Varnish 1015
SYSTEM THREE RESINS Spar Urethane Gloss Varnish
CETOL Cetol Marine Gloss
AWLGRIP Awlwood MA Clear Topcoat Finish - Gloss
MCCLOSKEY Man O'War Spar Marine Varnish - Gloss
INTERLUX Schooner Gold
INTERLUX Original 90 - Traditional Spar Varnish
BRISTOL FINISH Clear UV Finish Urethane Varnish
I chose to use Epiphanes because I like the look and sound of the name. Seemed like as good a reason as any. Flagship sounds rather navy or political like. Man O' War, the same. Behr... well who can find it? Besides, does it poop in the woods?
Jeff
There have been several excellent products mentioned here. I first ask if my client has a preference. So I've used an assortment of varnishes and similar products.
But I don't recommend that approach. Instead, for most boat owners, I strongly suggest you pick one of the reputable brands/products and get as good as you can with it.
FWIW -- My own go-to is Interlux Schooner #96. Unless I'm doing something where ambering is undesirable. Then there are some other choices available. I grab McClosky's if it's handy. Pick a varnish. Pick a brush type. Get some of the recommended solvent. Using them consistently will yield far better results than hopping around in a search for 'better'.
David G
Harbor Woodworks
https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/
"It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)
Le Tonkinois is not on the list.
That's an awfully nice varnish.
You would not enjoy Nietzsche, sir. He is fundamentally unsound. — P.G. Wodehouse (Carry On, Jeeves)
A few other marginal gains...
Beside Schooner original, I use a Harris stain/ varnish brush. Clean it in Intetnational’s solvent then store it bristles suspended in a jar of linseed oil (not boiled) that doesn’t skin or oxidise (only very slowly). Coz its a tung oil based varnish its kinda ok to store the brush in oil. When i do some more, take it out swill it off in some Internationals solvent again then dry it then go to the boat. Brush is always clean/ supple and its more eco than chucking brushes and you can use a nice one. I think I got that from the woodenboat series finishing book. Cut off any stray bristles before using it. Doesnt seem to loose shape suspended in the linseed oil.
I also have to say, some course paint filters (amazon) strain out any lumps easy, though with the bags, now that seems to be fixed as its not going off in the resealed tin, even upside down. With the bags you just sqeeze any air out and seal it. About a £1 bag.
Getting some tack rags also seems to eliminate that last bit of dust and improves the finish. Then picking my day...windless grey overcast if possible. Just leaves those black flies...
Dip my brush in the clean undisturbed - no bits picked up from the boat or bubbles - right hand side of the decanted varnish container, and remove excess or whatever on the left side of the plastic tub so dont pick that back up.
It’s A Pee Fanny.
Last edited by Edward Pearson; 07-16-2022 at 05:30 PM.
I find Sikkens Cetol Marine to be a perfectly acceptable 'clear' finish for brightwork. Impressive longevity. But wasn't the OP asking about varnishes?
Also... Your comments about the horrible orange are outdated. They don't make that product any more. They make 3 versions of the base (color) coat. And then the clear topcoat. One of which resembles the original fluorescent orange goop a bit, but much muted. My preferred flavor is the Natural Teak.
David G
Harbor Woodworks
https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/
"It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)
For this thread, I am speaking of Cetol Gloss.
I have mentioned "Cetol Orange" a few times , knowing it is a novelty.
Cetol Gloss dries clear, shiny, fairly hard ,very slowly, and outlasts any other product here,imo.
bruce
DSC_0110.jpg
Interlux #90 Original.
Brushed on with a cheap handled brush that has good natural bristles. I clean the brushes and use them 10-12 times then throw them out. The only cost $15 so not a major investment.
Why no mention of Lust?
0D21AC81-DCC4-400F-A2CF-DF44E744D188.jpg
https://www.totalboat.com/product/lust/
^![]()
Without friends none of this is possible.
Stunning! But do you get to use it between coats of varnish?[/QUOTE]
The drying time per coat will increase with additional coats.
A customer once wanted twelve coats of varnish on his Chris. (not 13, not 11) I usually coated until the grain was full then a couple more. Did not count. I would guess 7-8-9
Last edited by pcford; 07-17-2022 at 02:50 PM.
Nice work. I used to use foamies for the build coats, then switch to an inexpensive brand which does not drop bristles...sorry, can't remember brand...they were about 5-6 bucks wholesale then just toss 'em.
Warning! Do not buy badger brushes. If you want to spend a lot of money on a brush, go to a professional painters' supply house.
Last edited by pcford; 07-18-2022 at 11:34 PM.
The Fooler
![]()
So my local Home Depot sells Behr Spar Urethane. I take it that this is not the same varnish that was earlier marketed by Behr. Or is it? I've used Pettit Captain's for years and like it a lot. I've run out and need to buy more hence looking at other products.
- Anything you can't have fun with is not worth taking seriously.
yea but, they have a dutch accent. I can't even pronounce their cheese (post #16)