The Bathroom...

[AndyG]

...Is being stripped, in preparation for the new bathroom that has been lying in bits in my spare room since The Peak of The Plague.

Job #1 is to remove the tiling.

Now, youtube videos show diverse diyers tap a tile with a hammer and bolster, and lift away the perfectly preserved tile, leaving the plasterboard in a near-virgin state beneath, ready for new tiles.

"This looks easy!"

The truth, of course, in my bathroom, is that every tile disintegrates, leaving sharp shards whizzing about the place, and the plasterboard, now exposed to the atmosphere for the first time in twenty-five years, crumbles like an old, dry pharoah to nothing but dust.

I see 'new plasterboard' has been added to my schedule in the next day or two.

"Well, that looks easy! Cut, and simply screw it to the studs!"

Ummm...there are no studs. Not yet, anyway. Just some pink insulation boards, loosely floating in front of the block-built internal walls. What the heck was holding my wall up? Just tiles?

Do I moved to Arizona, or fight on?

Andy, fighting on. Bath out tomorrow, new (ply) flooring down later. The current 'Weetabix' flooring is not fit for purpose.

[David G]

Good luck! Should have the whole shebang done by next Monday, eh?

[bluedog225]

After going through that 30 years ago. And needing to do it again. Those tub/shower inserts look pretty good.

And there’s a “new” waterproofing system now. The red stuff.

[Paul Pless]

Do I moved to Arizona, or fight on?

you hurt me bro

[hawkeye54]

Andy, I am NOT a tile professional - but have been doing tile / mosaic work on and off for 52 years - First question : if you haven't finished tile removal, is some 'dry ice ' available ? ( to slightly shrink tile and pop it away from tile adhesive.) Second question.: is the wall really 'sheetrock / gypsum board ' or could it have been 'lath and plaster' or plaster over expanded metal mesh ? Third, (not a question) you possibly could adhere 'sleepers' of wood ( what we call 2 x 2's) to the block walls, vertically, and fasten the 'sheetrock to them - if the pink stuff is a rigid foam board, trim it to fit between the sleepers to keep the insulation value.


Just trying to be helpful - -

Rick

[P.I. Stazzer-Newt]

Was the plasterboard done "Dot n Dab" style - and how exactly is the insulation foam held in place?

There are some quite strict rules - for instance the phenolic foam backed insulating plasterboard needs to be screw fixed - it's a faire reg.

Plasterboard comes in MANY varieties - the choices can be subtle. - Some are vapour barriers, others are moisture tolerant and there's a whole class of cement based "Tile Boards"

[CWSmith]

In my limited experience, bathrooms and kitchens are the hardest and most expensive rehabs for the homeowner. They also add greatly to the quality of life and value of the home, so all I can say is "Good luck!"

[Peerie Maa]

Was the plasterboard done "Dot n Dab" style - and how exactly is the insulation foam held in place?

There are some quite strict rules - for instance the phenolic foam backed insulating plasterboard needs to be screw fixed - it's a faire reg.

Plasterboard comes in MANY varieties - the choices can be subtle. - Some are vapour barriers, others are moisture tolerant and there's a whole class of cement based "Tile Boards"

Just So. For bathroom tiling, use HardieBacker board https://www.toppstiles.co.uk/fixing-...iebacker-board.

[AndyG]

Right...This house, at the far end of the street, away from the 'show house', and as the budget dried up, while the will to work was evaporating, has:

Brick outer walls. Air gap. Block inner walls. In the bathroom, loose pink foam over the blocks. Cheap (deffo not HardieBacker) plasterboard on top of that. There's no studding on the 6' bath-length wall. The pb has been taped, and presumably has some support top and bottom (not got there yet) but there's no dot and dabbing going on. It feels like it's just the tiles that have prevented movement & flexing on this wall.

Cheapskates.

I may well tear back to block, add a wooden frame, structural support for a bath handrail (ought I get old and wobbly) and do it right.

As to the old bath? No silicone between it and the wall. None whatsoever.

New bath is going to be bomb-and-splashproof.

Andy

[Peerie Maa]

Is the cavity not insulated, most houses are now thanks to government grants. Just dot and dab the Hardibacker to the masonry. Make sure that the joints are well bridged, or the tiles will crack at the underlying joints.
There is better than silicone for baths now. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Homelux-Bat...B&gclsrc=aw.ds


It allows the bath to move when a big strapping forumite steps in, whilst directing any drips into the bath.

This is how ours turned out

[Peerie Maa]

Here is one that I made earlier. http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...throom-Remodel

[John Meachen]

Its quite a while since I did a bathroom refurb and its just about time for a comprehensive update.I had no problem with what was built over the cavities because such things hadn't been invented when the house was built and the walls were,and still are,solid.When I tried to persuade the old tiles off the walls I succeeded beyond any hopes I had entertained as they came off quickly and easily-as did all the plaster,down to the bricks.A quick render and a skim of plaster and I was ready to apply the tiles.I had harboured a feeling that a warmer colour on the walls and consequently applied a coat of bright orange emulsion.It worked out in parts as the new shade made the room feel warmer-the downside was walking out and finding purple spots in the middle of my field of view.

[Garret]

If it makes you fee any better, I went to replace a bathroom vanity - pulled the old one out & discovered that the rather nice tile floor was laid on top of carpet. The toilet (I haven't pulled it yet) must have an extra 3 or 4 wax rings, as it is on top of the tile on top of the carpet.

[AndyG]

Ugh! Carpet + bathrooms?

... No.

(I went to see a house for sale once, and the living room walls were Artexed. My 'desire to buy' disappeared in under a second.)

Andy, back at it for day #2.

[L.W. Baxter]

tile over carpet, it's funny when somebody else owns it.

i'm working on the bath as well, integral to my back deck project...with the old deck removed, and the new not yet built, time to sneak the tractor in and blow things up.

E1AD148B-38D1-43C1-9FEE-691FCCAE80DA.jpg

pulling the cast iron built-in tub out through the dismantled wall.

[P.I. Stazzer-Newt]

We are keeping the cast iron tub, yes?

[Peerie Maa]

We are keeping the cast iron tub, yes?

Probably. It'll go into a paddock as a drinking trough. TRADITION!

[L.W. Baxter]

We are keeping the cast iron tub, yes?

it is an old jetted tub with pump, a "working take out". it was already old when it was installed in the popout built for it 15 years ago, by me, for my folks. guessing the tub is from the 80's. all the jet plumbing is copper, which dates it back to when stuff was still built reasonably well.

anyway, hoping to clean it up and sell it for something other than scrap. the market for such beasts is not terribly hot, considering the weight and bulk of it, getting it in on a remodel is tough, not many can use a tractor to put it in place. and nobody is going to install an old jacuzzi in a new house.

we are expanding the pop-out and going to a cast iron clawfoot type of antique style but new finish and fixtures. some would consider this a down grade but there is no accounting for (our) tastes.

[AndyG]

The day so far:

A trip to the dump with the trailer full up. (Had to book it in, online. I'm allowed 12 free trips per year with a trailer, due to draconian North Lanarkshire Council going to the dump rules.)

Water off. Shower power disconnected at the consumer unit.

Out: bath, sink, shower unit, close-coupled cistern and more tiles. Trailer full again. All ends are now tapped off, so water will be back on in the house shortly. Big leak-check ahead of me, I guess.

I've replaced the bath taps on the bare bath pipes to power the bucket-flushed loo that'll be there for a few days while I replace the plaster board. The loo will only be removed when it's time to install the new wall-mounted cludgie. (There's only one toilet in this house, so timing's of the essence. Fortunately, daughter lives just 150m away.)

This afternoon will be spent removing the rest of the plasterboard/few tiles that still need to go. And naturally asking the forum 'what's the most permanent way to get screws/bolts to hold into blockwork'? Thinking of the geometry and my rusty Dynamics, I'm needing 1000N (preferably higher) shared between two fixings.

And it’s not even 2pm!

Andy, vaguely enjoying the process of utter destruction.

[TomF]

tile over carpet, it's funny when somebody else owns it.

i'm working on the bath as well, integral to my back deck project...with the old deck removed, and the new not yet built, time to sneak the tractor in and blow things up.

E1AD148B-38D1-43C1-9FEE-691FCCAE80DA.jpg

pulling the cast iron built-in tub out through the dismantled wall.

Secretly Ukrainian.

[Garret]

When I first looked at this pic I wondered how you got the tractor past the big iron pipe without bending it. Then I realized what it was & got exhausted...

tile over carpet, it's funny when somebody else owns it.

i'm working on the bath as well, integral to my back deck project...with the old deck removed, and the new not yet built, time to sneak the tractor in and blow things up.

E1AD148B-38D1-43C1-9FEE-691FCCAE80DA.jpg

pulling the cast iron built-in tub out through the dismantled wall.

[Garret]

The day so far:

A trip to the dump with the trailer full up. (Had to book it in, online. I'm allowed 12 free trips per year with a trailer, due to draconian North Lanarkshire Council going to the dump rules.)

Water off. Shower power disconnected at the consumer unit.

Out: bath, sink, shower unit, close-coupled cistern and more tiles. Trailer full again. All ends are now tapped off, so water will be back on in the house shortly. Big leak-check ahead of me, I guess.

I've replaced the bath taps on the bare bath pipes to power the bucket-flushed loo that'll be there for a few days while I replace the plaster board. The loo will only be removed when it's time to install the new wall-mounted cludgie. (There's only one toilet in this house, so timing's of the essence. Fortunately, daughter lives just 150m away.)

This afternoon will be spent removing the rest of the plasterboard/few tiles that still need to go. And naturally asking the forum 'what's the most permanent way to get screws/bolts to hold into blockwork'? Thinking of the geometry and my rusty Dynamics, I'm needing 1000N (preferably higher) shared between two fixings.

And it’s not even 2pm!

Andy, vaguely enjoying the process of utter destruction.

Around here, you can take all the trips you want, but construction waste is expensive to get rid of. I had a load of really dead carpet, underlayment & sheetrock - very roughly 3 cubic yards/meters - $120!

[AndyG]

Got the new bath in!

IMG_20220315_175250_7.jpg

I call it 'Starkly Minimalist'.

More ripping out tomorrow.

Andy, glass of red time.

[Garret]

Got the new bath in!



I call it 'Starkly Minimalist'.

More ripping out tomorrow.

Andy, glass of red time.

So - a new bath has been on your bucket list?

Enjoy the wine!

[Canoeyawl]

When I first looked at this pic I wondered how you got the tractor past the big iron pipe without bending it. Then I realized what it was & got exhausted...

And when you do "tag" that pipe, it may break the exhaust manifold.
Many of my tractors past had "hinged" stacks to get into carports and etc.

[Garret]

And when you do "tag" that pipe, it may break the exhaust manifold.
Many of my tractors past had "hinged" stacks to get into carports and etc.

The garage I used to keep my tractor in had an opening about 5" lower than the top of the ROPS unless I lowered it. Doing a wheelie & watching the hood rush up towards the rolled open door is not fun.

[L.W. Baxter]

And when you do "tag" that pipe...

well i would never!

[Canoeyawl]

well i would never!

And I never, ever got a tractor stuck.
edit: Which is why, it was pointed out to me, that god gave me two tractors.

[David G]

Got the new bath in!

IMG_20220315_175250_7.jpg

I call it 'Starkly Minimalist'.

More ripping out tomorrow.

Andy, glass of red time.

I lived in a house that was completely at that level of completion. Owner had stripped it back to the studs, then install this level of bathroom (and kitchen).

The deal was - I lived there rent-free while he & I put it back together evenings and weekends. Problem was - he fell in love. Suddenly all his spare time was spoken for. I wasn't willing to do it all and eventually moved next door to an almost equally weird but different and much better setup. Young couple I'd gotten to know a bit, who offered their entire spare upstairs (bed, bath, sitting room) for very reasonable rent. Turned out they like to party, so it was a good thing my rooms were isolated. And they started hinting about my being welcome to join them for some horizontal fun. Luckily, they weren't offended when I passed. They were some nice folks, really.

[AndyG]

the[/B] most permanent way to get screws/bolts to hold into blockwork'? Thinking of the geometry and my rusty Dynamics, I'm needing 1000N (preferably higher) shared between two fixings.

Soldiering on. New toilet goes in tomorrow. No more bucket-to-flush-it.

However, to answer my own question, I can highly recommend resin-based anchors. I measured up the spaces for the bolts (M8 stainless steel) drilled to M12. The instructions gave a wrong spacing for two of the bolts - I used the frame for the right dimensions. Measure twice and check three times, eh? I cleaned the 150mm deep holes, injected the resin and inserted the bolts yesterday.

Today?

They Are Going Nowhere. I am immensely impressed by the security and strength. Highly recommended!

Andy, give me a week. Should be enough.

[David G]

Love it when these question marks are answered successfully and there is some clear sailing ahead.

[John B]

When we bought our house and cottage in 18 I crawled around underneath looking particularly at the bathroom and sink type areas. Just a simple foil paper type insulation so I could see the floor. House, 1987. Cottage 1997.
All great. I commented about how pristine the cottage bathroom was from underneath and the previous owner told me they always worried about leaks .So as boaties they went for a boaties solution. They fibreglassed the floor before laying the tiles.
Ok, I thought. That'll do it.

[AndyG]

^ Excellent.

My neighbours (their house is a mirror image of this one) went for an all-wet bathroom about five years ago. It cost thousands, as they didn't 'DIY'. Two years ago, they had to have it all ripped out. This also cost thousands: but it had to go as there were leaks everywhere.

There's something to be said for doing a proper job by doing it yourself. It's not rocket science...just messy and time-consuming. Sure, I'm way slower than a pro aiming to hit a £/hour target, but I also know what exactly is going to be hidden in terms of pipework and joints behind 'permanent' surfaces.

Andy. Enjoying it.

[AndyG]

Day #8-ish?

Flooring has taken longer than I wanted. Not least 'cos there are pipes everywhere, and cutting them would be bad.

IMG_20220321_173515_9.jpg

But today was a day of cistern-Meccano and some intense blowtorch action for some proper plumbing. (The fill for the new back-to-wall cistern took four bits of pipe, four 90 degree bends, a compression coupler and a half-inch tap connector.

Checked and leak-free, thank flip. I'll never be seeing this stuff again, I hope.

IMG_20220322_203736_7.jpg

I'm now clearly putting stuff in and not just taking it out - a result!

Andy, tiling commences tomorrow.

[AndyG]

Room? There is no room.

IMG_20220322_203811_8.jpg

Back of the cistern frame. It's tight.

Andy