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Thread: Paying the seams ???

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    St-Constant, Qc, Canada
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    10

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    Wich product must I use for my seams (cedar planks) after cotton caulk ?

    Davis Slick Seam
    PETTIT 7710
    Interlux Seam Compound brown

    What is the best ? Any suggestions ?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 1999
    Location
    Hyannis, MA, USA
    Posts
    28,789

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    I pay 'em about $1.50/foot.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    St-Constant, Qc, Canada
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    10

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    My problem is that I don't know which one of these products I have to use to fill the seams.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Location
    Canberra
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    2,360

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    Don't worry about Ian, EG. He just couldn't resist.

    But I'm afraid I can't help you either -- I wear seamless myself.

    No doubt some seemly person will saunter along soon though, so just keep your finger in the dyke a mite longer,,,,,

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    1,005

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    After the cotton caulking paint the seams. Then ontop of the paint I use BoatLife polysulphide for under water and differing seam compounds for above depending on the finish I want. Stay away from the interlux seam compounds for underwater use. They set up too hard and give resistance to the plank edge during swelling. For the paint, I use a lead based sign painters paint. The paint never leaches, washes out nor chalks and the Boatlife sticks to it. The SlickSeam turns into hard wax in cold winter water and will fall out in chunks. Not nice in Febuary.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 1999
    Location
    Hyannis, MA, USA
    Posts
    28,789

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    OK

    Grana has epoxy spline so it's been a decade since I did seams but I did a lot of seams on Goblin and I help my friends.

    Underwater seam compound and topside seam compounds have different properties. I don't remember any of the three you mention being underwater, so read the can first.

    Most seam compounds want a primer on the wood and the caulking.

    If the boat's been really dry for a while, think about roofing tar underwater since it'll squeeze out nicely. Under ablative (soft) bottom paint it'll just push through, not break the paint.

    Don't forget at least one pound of ceyanne pepper per gallon.

    Now you think I'm kidding again, but really, this is a true wrinkle.

    G'luck

  7. #7

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    I use the brown interlux stuff myself.
    I have been tempted to use Dolphinite as a seam compound, but haven't as of yet. If you got a bunch of that around, try that.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 1999
    Location
    Rock Hall, MD
    Posts
    1,255

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    While we are on the subject of paying seams, I bought a bunch of one quart cans of red lead seam compound. It is the same color as red lead paint and a can of it weighs about the same as a can of red lead paint (I.E.heavy !!). It is about the consistancy of the brown Interlux underwater seam compound.Got it at a going out of business sale for $2.00 a can. If I remember right it is (was?)made by Interlux. How is this stuff for paying underwater seams ? If is is any good does Interlux still make it ?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    St-Constant, Qc, Canada
    Posts
    10

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    Thank You for your answers

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Woodbridge, Suffolk, England
    Posts
    100

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    A British recipe:

    Above water seams: linseed oil putty with 20% white lead paint mixed in and a touch of tallow. Below water seams: Jeffrey's Seamflex (Traditional brown stuff, does not go hard)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Sausalito, CA
    Posts
    7

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    I'd be wary of trying to use Dolphinite as seam compound, that stuff can be a real B*tch to paint over. For a dry boat the roofing tar sounds like a good if not messy idea though! I just hauled a couple monthes ago and wooded the hull before repainting. I was/am super-satisfied with both Interlux's Underwater and Topside seam compound.

    Good Luck,

    Kitch

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