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Thread: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

  1. #1
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    Default Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Hello all.

    I've decided to give lofting a try and have chosen William Atkin's 8 ft. canvas-covered tender "Handy Andy" as my vessel. My basement stairs are too small to get a full sheet of ply down, so I've seamed a few pieces together.

    I'm doing the profile first, and then plan on doing the half-breadths above that on the same sheet. I've got the body plan grid laid out on a separate 6 by 4 foot sheet, but I may super-impose it over the profile if it doesn't seem too confusing.

    So far it's been fun! A few photos:

    grid layout.jpg

    stem.jpg

    keel.jpg

    buttock lines.jpg

    I may or may not build the boat next summer. It would be a new construction method for me-canvas-covered strip planking. It's a very cute little thing, so I may just have to.

    Cheers!

    Mike

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    The designer's sail plan,

    bg1.jpg

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Well, I've run into a bit of confusion. I'm drawing in the waterlines on the half-breadth view and the offsets don't seem to match the drawing. The table of offsets says that the LWL intersects station 6 at 3/8 of an inch, but the drawing seems to show it ending about 3 inches shy of sta. 6.

    I feel like the profile and body plans must have the answers, but I'm in a muddle now, even after sleeping on it

    Anyone feel like chiming in?

    offsets.jpeg
    waterlines.jpg
    profile+body.jpg

    I hope it's ok to show this much of the plans. I could delete the photos if folks think this violates copyright.

    Thanks in advance!

    Mike
    Last edited by Michael_Owen; 11-22-2021 at 06:38 AM.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Is it possible that the offset refers to the distance ahead of St 6 that the LWL crosses the centreline?The plan view certainly doesn't show the line running aft of St 6.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    I'd not obsess about the aft ending of the LWL. When your rebate and buttocks are fair, they will define the LWL..
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    I imagine you probably shouldn't post the table of offsets.

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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Just tried to crop out the bulk of the offsets, but it still shows in that weird "attached thumbnails" thing.

    I'll try to loft the body plan and see if that clarifies things.

    Mike

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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Owen View Post
    Just tried to crop out the bulk of the offsets, but it still shows in that weird "attached thumbnails" thing.

    I'll try to loft the body plan and see if that clarifies things.

    Mike
    Open the post to edit it, Go Advanced, then scroll down, and you will find a section on Additional Options, which includes Manage Attachments. Open Manage Attachments and you can delete it from there.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    I think it's referring to the half-breadth of the skeg: 0.0.3+ = 7/16" and the skeg is ⅞" full siding.

    Cheers -- George
    To be truly free to live, one must be free to think and speak.

    A C Grayling

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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Owen View Post
    The designer's sail plan,

    bg1.jpg
    She looks just like a Bahama Dinghy. I think you should have a loosefooted main. Will she have a shallow keel? Or a leeboard? I like her a lot. Frank
    Www.oarandsail.nl

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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Thanks, gents. George, I think you are correct. 3/8+ sounds a lot like 7/16 to me, and that would be half of the skeg dimension. Anyway, the LWL does not intersect Sta. 6 near as
    I can tell.

    I drew it crossing the CL about 3 1/4" forward of Sta.6. That would bring the bottom of the transom clear of the water about an inch in the vertical dimension, so that seems good.

    andy aft.jpg

    I'll begin the body plan next. There are no offsets for this. Am I correct that I should transfer where the waterlines intersect the buttock lines with a tick-stick to get this info?

    I'm enjoying myself. It's a cold, bright day outside, so being in the basement with the plans and a scale rule thinking about boats in three dimensions is fun.

    Cheers,

    Mike

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Owen View Post
    I'll begin the body plan next. There are no offsets for this. Am I correct that I should transfer where the waterlines intersect the buttock lines with a tick-stick to get this info?
    Mike
    The body plan offsets are the vertical columns of dimensions under the station numbers.
    Draw your WL and buttock grid, with the two diagonals, and step off the widths and heights
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  13. #13
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Owen View Post
    Thanks, gents. George, I think you are correct. 3/8+ sounds a lot like 7/16 to me, and that would be half of the skeg dimension. Anyway, the LWL does not intersect Sta. 6 near as
    I can tell.

    I drew it crossing the CL about 3 1/4" forward of Sta.6. That would bring the bottom of the transom clear of the water about an inch in the vertical dimension, so that seems good.

    andy aft.jpg

    I'll begin the body plan next. There are no offsets for this. Am I correct that I should transfer where the waterlines intersect the buttock lines with a tick-stick to get this info?

    I'm enjoying myself. It's a cold, bright day outside, so being in the basement with the plans and a scale rule thinking about boats in three dimensions is fun.

    Cheers,

    Mike
    Quite right – it hits the side of the skeg ahead of St. 6 and then runs a parallel 7/16 Offset to the aft face of the sternpost.

    Cheers -- George
    To be truly free to live, one must be free to think and speak.

    A C Grayling

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Well, I got the body plan lofted. I made a few mistakes, which the battens showed up, and I measured again and corrected them. The lines look pretty good to me, but there is still a long way to go before I understand enough to do a "real" lofting. This was an excellent way to dive in and begin learning, though. I will try my hand at expanding the transom next. Once that is done, I wonder if I have enough info to begin building?

    I'll probably use mylar to get the patterns from the lofting. Then make stem and transom patterns, 6 station molds, remembering to deduct planking thickness...the pulse quickens.

    Am I overlooking anything obvious or important?

    Thanks,

    Mike

    body plan.jpg

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    I expanded the transom on a separate piece of paper and it seemed to go alright. I was also able to figure out something that had me confused before. On Atkin's profile plans (Post #3 above) he shows what appear to be two layers of transom. I think that the after-most one is a board about 1/2" thick by a few inches wide that runs down the after face of the transom and locks into the skeg.

    On my profile drawing, I drew in some hash marks to indicate this piece, and inboard of it, I drew the actual transom (too faint to see here).

    Next, I'll try to plot out the inner, larger face of the transom.


    transom exp..jpg

    Transom board.jpg

    Mike

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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Hi FF! The designer calls for a dagger-board, so I'll probably do that. I had originally planned to do just a rowing tender, but you know that I'm going to want to sail her some! 45 sq. ft. sail.

    Do you mean you would eliminate the boom? Or loose-footed on the boom?

    Cheers!

    Mike

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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Owen View Post
    I expanded the transom on a separate piece of paper and it seemed to go alright. I was also able to figure out something that had me confused before. On Atkin's profile plans (Post #3 above) he shows what appear to be two layers of transom. I think that the after-most one is a board about 1/2" thick by a few inches wide that runs down the after face of the transom and locks into the skeg.

    On my profile drawing, I drew in some hash marks to indicate this piece, and inboard of it, I drew the actual transom (too faint to see here).

    Next, I'll try to plot out the inner, larger face of the transom.


    transom exp..jpg

    Transom board.jpg

    Mike
    I think that is probably an external stern post, rather than external fashion pieces.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  18. #18
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Owen View Post
    Hi FF! The designer calls for a dagger-board, so I'll probably do that. I had originally planned to do just a rowing tender, but you know that I'm going to want to sail her some! 45 sq. ft. sail.

    Do you mean you would eliminate the boom? Or loose-footed on the boom?

    Cheers!

    Mike
    You cannot lose the boom without adding a long bumpkin. However you can go loose footed on a boom.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

    The power of the web: Anyone can post anything on the web
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  19. #19
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Well, expanding the transom's inner face just about did my head in. Partly because I'm a first-timer, but also maybe because there are only two buttock lines and really only two waterlines in the plans for this tiny boat.

    Atkin does not provide offsets for the transom, but says that "Stern dimensions are to be gotten from the work."

    Anyway, after much back-and-forth, I got something that I think is close-shown in blue here.
    0.jpg

    I think that if I transfer the patterns for the front and back to the stock, and bevel, leaving the front face a bit large, I can use battens to get the exact bevel as I plank.

    Assuming I build her at all. For now, I think I'll cover this table with plastic and bring in the seats and hatch covers from my Ilur for varnishing over the winter.
    They are Southern Yellow Pine oiled with Dek's 1 and 2, and have large areas of grey that I hope to get out with sanding and white vinegar before varnishing with Epifanes.

    Cheers!

    Mike
    Last edited by Michael_Owen; 12-12-2021 at 04:20 PM.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Owen View Post
    Well, expanding the transom's inner face just about did my head in. Partly because I'm a first-timer, but also maybe because there are only two buttock lines and really only two waterlines in the plans for this tiny boat.

    Atkin does not provide offsets for the transom, but says that "Stern dimensions are to be gotten from the work."

    Anyway, after much back-and-forth, I got something that I think is close-shown in blue here.
    0.jpg

    I think that if transfer the patterns for the front and back to the stock, and bevel, leaving the front face a bit large, I can use battens to get the exact bevel as I plank.

    Assuming I build her at all. For now, I think I'll cover this table with plastic and bring in the seats and hatch covers from my Ilur for varnishing over the winter.
    They are Southern Yellow Pine oiled with Dek's 1 and 2, and have large ares of grey that I hope to get out with sanding and white vinegar before varnishing with Epifanes.

    Cheers!

    Mike
    Just so.
    There is nothing to stop you from lofting additional buttocks and wls using the date from St 4, 5, 6 & S
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  21. #21
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Thanks for chiming in, Nick. I did add extra waterlines and buttock lines for the expansion of the outer face, but I didn't think about using data from those other stations.
    I'll have another look.

    I got to a place yesterday where I not only did not know how to move forward, I also couldn't remember what I had done 2 minutes ago, or how I got certain points!

    Mike

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Hi again, everybody. Happy New Year!

    I have a question about the transom, which is basically, "do I need to deduct planking thickness here as well as on the molds?"

    I bought some large sheets of mylar to transfer the lofted stem and transom shapes to some 1/4" ply in order to make patterns, and last night, after tracing both the aft and forward faces of the transom, I remembered about the planking thickness. Atkin's lines are drawn to the outside of the planking, which is 3/16" thick.

    What is the best way to achieve this. Make a bunch of marks and bend a batten thru?

    Thanks!

    Mike

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Owen View Post
    Hi again, everybody. Happy New Year!

    I have a question about the transom, which is basically, "do I need to deduct planking thickness here as well as on the molds?"

    I bought some large sheets of mylar to transfer the lofted stem and transom shapes to some 1/4" ply in order to make patterns, and last night, after tracing both the aft and forward faces of the transom, I remembered about the planking thickness. Atkin's lines are drawn to the outside of the planking, which is 3/16" thick.

    What is the best way to achieve this. Make a bunch of marks and bend a batten thru?

    Thanks!

    Mike
    I would erect the oversize transom, and use battens around the moulds to cut notches that will define the faying surface of the plank to the transom. If the batten is the same thickness as the plank, you can control the depth of the notch, bot h for fairnes and depth.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  24. #24
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Thanks, Nick. That sounds like a plan. Better than taking off 3/16" now and having an unfairness back there. I think I'll make the patterns then.

    Now to look for a curved piece of oak for the stem.

    Cheers!

    Mike

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Hey Mike,
    Making the transom oversized is the only way I, myself, would do it...
    The 2 boats I built with transoms,.. both I ended up a bit small and had to pad out the transom a bit.
    Leave more than you at first think...
    It's easier to take some off than have to put some back on... epoxy helped there of course.
    Good luck.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Thanks, Timo. Good to know your experiences, especially since your latest build was by the same designer as the Handy Andy.

    I think I've mentioned this elsewhere, but percolating in the back of my mind is a lofting/build of the Albury Brothers runabout. I don't have the space or the money now though, so it'll have to remain a dream for the time being.

    Mike

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Oh, nevermind I just found one for sale! https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/202...about-6053914/

    A bit steep. You could probably get a decent house in some parts of the country for that money.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Owen View Post

    A bit steep. You could probably get a decent house in some parts of the country for that money.
    They do say that a house is just a badly built bat run hard aground.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  29. #29
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Ha! Same website, same price, and it's a beautifully built house that you could sail around the world in. https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/197...ketch-7626613/

    Mike

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    I decided to use as much scrap or older material as possible for this little dinghy. So I ripped and milled some white oak strips to laminate the stem. Came out pretty well.
    Here is the jig, the pattern and the laminated blank.

    stem jig.jpg
    stemblank.jpg

    Next, I will glue up a transom blank from some left over Douglas Fir, just visible in the top photo above. I'll have to spend money on the cedar for planking, I guess, but I can't wait to work with that stuff. I plan on trying Liberty Cedar in CT. Any reviews appeciated.

    Thanks,

    Mike

  31. #31
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Nice job! The omens are very promising for a spectacular boat.

  32. #32
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    Thanks for the kind words , John!

    I roughed out the transom today. The plans call for 5/8 mahogany, but, again, I want to use as much leftover material as possible. This douglas fir is a bit under 3/4".

    transom.jpg

    Mike

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Lofting Atkin's Handy Andy

    A quick update. I've been picking away at the molds the last few weeks. Go three done. Four more to go.
    The goal will be to plank her up when I can get my other boat out of the garage. So May possibly. I'm a slow worker, but I'd like to get the Handy Andy finished before the Ilur has to come back home in the fall. We'll see....

    andy molds.jpg

    Cheers,

    Mike

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