Finishing scuppered inwales

[dalekidd]

I'm considering scuppered inwales on my CIY 16. I did them on my SD 11. Here is a pick of Ocean's inwales. The inwale rises above the plane of the breasthook. How should that be finished? Just bevel it level with the breasthook?

ocean's boat.jpg

Here is a picture of my SD 11 where I did just that - bevel it level. Looked ok I guess.

build158.jpg

Any advice?

[Edward Pearson]

The breasthook should have a crown to look right. Angle between two bookmatched pieces to nake a basic crown angle and reduce thickness otherwise needed, then hollow / round yso that it compliments the inwales and makes the angles and inwale line all continuous. Use a ‘french curve’ set to make some nice shape to the back of the breasthook. To know how much total thickness you need to start with before crowning, its best to loft it out after measuring up. Dowel fasten it into the inwales/ outwales. Use a cardboard pattern for the top of the inwales (the biggest dimension) for the breasthook shape and bevel off the sides etc so its a snug fit. If your new boat had decks it can be vestigal, but without a sunken foredeck more substantial. Traditionally a breasthook had dowels or splines between both halves or a laminated one/ one piece also fastened fore and aft through the stem but is rare to see these days. A crook for the win, but would take some finding commercially. If you use local woods then you’ll find one in tour local woods! Need to dry it out after chainsaw/ bandsawing it etc.

[willin woodworks]

Plane or grind the existing breasthook down flat and level, epoxy a new thick one on top and bevel it down.

[Edward Pearson]

Modern inwales ate usually just glued to the planks, which actually makes the inside line in profile ‘stick up’ above the drawn sheerline where there are points of outward flare around station 1. This continues to the stem on a forward raking stem like say a Caledonia, but on short ended boats with vertical stems the top plank twists back to vertical and flare goes. This means the inwale protrusion goes just toward the stem. This can create a dip or powderhorn affect, just when you want your eye to see the opposite.

A Caledar Island has moderate stem rake. If you wish to use a flat breasthook, and a bias cut plywood one is not a bad idea for grain orientation, then to avoid problems with the inwales meeting it like you had before you could instead bevel the inwales so they are horizontal when fitted, so the sheerline isn’t affected by flare and the breasthook will match. Optically though your eye normally wants to see crown as you aldo have the sheer rising and converging, and that flow from one side to other needs an ‘apex’ visually.

[TerryLL]

Plane or grind the existing breasthook down flat and level, epoxy a new thick one on top and bevel it down.

I think this is your best option at this point. Without a crown in the breasthook the fair sweep of the sheer will look flattened out at the bow, as already mentioned.

The SD 11 has a lot more flare at the sheer than the CIY 16, so the inwale on the CIY 16 will not protrude as high. But the CIY 16 will still require a crowned breasthook to continue the fair sweep of the sheer.

The flare of the sheer plank and the rake of the stem on the CIY 16 is very similar to the Caledonia Yawl. Below is a pic of a CY forward stem that shows the importance of a crowned breasthook.

IMG_2485.jpg