Caledonia Yawl build downunder

[neil.henderson]

Sorry, I for got to provide his name. Floki is a Cream Colored Golden Retriever (aka English Golden Retriever). I had pressed my wife to name him Hamish so when I suggested Floki as an alternative she quickly adopted the name. My father-in-law was a Danish steam ship engineer so Floki had resonance.

Tom

D'Arcy is also a golden retriever & we have owned a couple. They are often good for training although they are not known for being particularly clever dogs. And they can have ambitions tgo be as smelly as possible, Bella used to roll in fresh horse urine every morning and reckoned she smelled just fantastic.

Regards Neil

[neil.henderson]

It's all quite simple really, just cut out a piece of timber to suit the curvature of the decks and then trim the ends to suit the shape of the hull..............fortunately the job is getting easier as I remember some of the tricks. Am using "U" shaped pieces of ply to support/place the end of the beams, will be well slathered in epoxy when the beams are glued in.
These cheap (Ozito down under) tools are useful - this one is a small belt sander, great for trimming the end of the deckbeams when they don't quite fit (never happens to me!! Lol) and for sanding the inside of the centreboard slot - just keep the belt moving on the timber and it does quick work.

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Regards Neil

[Steve TN 15]

It is far far better to cut oversize than under.

[neil.henderson]

Ok, so now I have to undertake a terifying (for me) task of cutting a rectangular hole in the bottom of the hull just aft of station 6 - this will become the hole for my outboard well. This is something I've never done before and I'm wondering if anyone on this forum might have some tips to avoid traps for new players? Any advice gratefully received.
I have already extended the plan for the outboard well by 2" because my electric outboard is longer than an internal combustion outboard where the propellor is attached.
I have cut out a template for the well dimensions and can easily lay this on the inside of the hull and mark it out. But can I cut out the rectangle of hull with a jigsaw or will it rip the outside of the hull which is so beautifully painted? Should I glue reinforcement inside the hull before cutting out, but if I do this will I have room for the jigsaw? Is there a Japanese pullsaw that would make this easier?

Any suggestions gratefully received.

Thanks Neil
p.s. I did search this forum and the splinternet with little success.....................................

[Andrew Donald]

I understand your apprehension Neil, my only suggestion is to search for Ian Milne’s thread on “Kotik, Kotik, kotik” (not sure on commas etc) or for threads that people have built Eun Maras (Stromberg’s “Eun Mara Gaff Yawl”. Just down the page a bit as of 12Feb) which have such a setup.

[ulav8r]

Might be easier to cut from the outside. Do the layout on the inside, then drill from the inside at each corner. Then from the outside connect the holes with straight cuts. If worried about rough cuts, score the cut lines with a knife, cut undersize and then finish with rasps, file, sandpaper, etc.

[Max F]

I would glue in the well first and cut after that from the inside with a fein multimaster or simillar tool.
Cheers
Max

[biglad]

When I did mine I built the box first, and then cut the hull piece out, which I made into a fairing plug when sailing

[TerryLL]

Have you considered hanging your OB on a bracket rather than installing a well? I went back and forth on those two options and finally decided on a bracket. No hole, no prop drag, and my OB stows in the aft compartment.

It looks to me that your scuppered rail will be plenty strong enough for an OB bracket

[TerryLL]

I see that you're getting ready to lay in the deck beams. The big question is how to support the decking where it joins the hull. Iain in his Boatbuilding Manual suggests an epoxy fillet under the decking.

Another way to go about it is to use a narrow plywood shelf glued to the planking. The shelf also provides a solid base for the notched cleats that support the beam ends.

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[neil.henderson]

Hi All,
Thanks for your feedback. I hadn't thought about using a multitool but that would let me get into the corners, good idea.

BigLad - can you remember how you cut the rectangle out of the hull?

Regards Neil

[biglad]

I drilled a small hole at each corner, then connected the dots and cut it out with the jigsaw from the outside.

I didn't have a multi tool then, but that's what I'd probably use now

[stromborg]

Does the hole for the outboard need to be rectangular? When I went to do this on Marianita I started with figuring out what the actual "footprint" of the OB was as it passed through the hull, gave my self a bit of room and cut out the resulting potato shape. On the Eun Mara there isn't enough room to tilt the motor up while sailing without creating a ghastly large hole in the boat right next to the stem so straight up and down through as small a hole as I could manage seemed like the best option.


I try to not think about what that hole in the bottom is doing to the drag profile of the hull, it would be nice to fit a filler piece but there just isn't room.

Use a fine toothed jigsaw blade, don't worry too much about tear-out, you are going to have to sand back the edges anyway to seal up the exposed plywood anyway.

[Steamboat]

Is your "electric outboard" really a trolling motor? If so the shaft is likely to be long enough to hand over the side. I have one that has worked well hanging off the side where I reenforced the boat.

[TerryLL]

Is your "electric outboard" really a trolling motor? If so the shaft is likely to be long enough to hand over the side. I have one that has worked well hanging off the side where I reenforced the boat.

I second that opinion. The 2HP Honda and the small Torqueedo both weigh under 30 pounds. A trolling motor will weigh even less. Anything over 2HP is overkill for the CY.

[neil.henderson]

My Outboard is a Torqeedo 1103 that I bought to put on the transom of my Gannet. I did consider a trolling motor but after seeing another of our boat group with one in his small dinghy I decided against it - because they are less powerful than an outboard. I may even need to put a petrol one on the CY if I need to go against tidal streams or wind.

Regards Neil

p.s. I tested my multitool on a piece of 9mm ply yesterday - it made a nice clean cut.

[neil.henderson]

Took everything out of the hull & sanded back each plank from stem to stern. A noisy dusty job, but I had my very attractive dust bag on my face. Have also glued in the step for the mizzen mast. I do have all the deck beams, kingplank and sides for the well cut, just not in this photo.

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The hole for the well was cut using my multitool. It cut really nice sharp corners but it goes to the top of the nasty tool list in therms of its noise & dust - it terms of cutting sharp straight boxes it wins hands down.

Am now working out how best to fit a hatch into that sterndeck - think I will put on top of the deck & hinge the lid - or is that a bad idea?

Regards Neil

[Larks]

Took everything out of the hull & sanded back each plank from stem to stern. A noisy dusty job, but I had my very attractive dust bag on my face. Have also glued in the step for the mizzen mast. I do have all the deck beams, kingplank and sides for the well cut, just not in this photo.

IMG_2830.jpg

The hole for the well was cut using my multitool. It cut really nice sharp corners but it goes to the top of the nasty tool list in therms of its noise & dust - it terms of cutting sharp straight boxes it wins hands down.

Am now working out how best to fit a hatch into that sterndeck - think I will put on top of the deck & hinge the lid - or is that a bad idea?

Regards Neil

I don’t know how that aft deck is supposed to appear but a hatch on top is more accessible than one underneath and you could potentially make it a nice looking feature so that the front of the hatch forms the front edge of the deck and the rear of the hatch is hinged - with gutters around three sides (port, stbd and aft) running forward into the hull....if that makes sense..???

[neil.henderson]

Yes, that makes sense. But I have 3 deckbeams between the forward edge of the outboard well and the stern stem, so i was thinking of placing the hatch between beam 2 & 3 rather than between 1 & 2 so that reaching in it would be easier to reach almost all of the inside of the enclosed space. I also noticed that this is roughly what Andrew Denman did with the CY's he built. There are some photos on his website.
You can just wee the ply brackets I've made for the 3 deckbeams in the photo - the deck runs roughly halfway up the 7th plank, whereas the foredeck runs along the top edge of the 7th plank.
Nothing is glued so far so I will run up a quick with some beams & photo it.

Regards Neil