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Thread: Scorpion hog problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    Default Scorpion hog problem

    So we have about three weeks to get Rosie Too back on the water in time for my daughter to sail the Nationals. Things are generally progressing OK and much of this is a standard refurb. But I have an issue with the hog.

    At some point an old repair in the transom has given up and a section between the scuppers has broken away. It took with it a small knee that was bracing the transom off the hog. Unfortunately the knee had been screwed at an angle down through the transom, through the knee and into the hog. The screws ended short, only entering the top half of the hog so when the transom moved and took the knee with it, the knee also took the top of the hog.

    We are left with a horizontal split in the hog from the transom to about 20 cm shy of the centre board case.

    Most of this I am OK with but I am tempted to cut out the broken section of the hog in order to effect a proper repair. The alternative is to raise the stern and run epoxy into the split. However, my concern is that if this is not100% effective then a) I wont know and b) there could be a nice little patch for water to find it's way in to.

    Has anyone had ago at something like this? Yay or nay to cutting?

    Cheers

    T

    IMG_0691 (002).jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Scorpion hog problem

    If you can get thickened epoxy into it, do so, and drive bronze screws or clench copper nails down both edges to mechanically fasten it as well.

    Great self bailer you have there. Just needs a hinged flap and some bungy cord.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Scorpion hog problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Peerie Maa View Post
    If you can get thickened epoxy into it, do so, and drive bronze screws or clench copper nails down both edges to mechanically fasten it as well.

    Great self bailer you have there. Just needs a hinged flap and some bungy cord.
    Thanks Nick. I very much appreciate your view. You've helped me before, about ten years ago. Anyway, that was my initial thought. But will thickened epoxy reach the furthest nook of the split - and if it doesn't how will I know? If it doesn't I'm potentially leaving a booby trap, and the kicker is that we are only borrowing the boat so I want to do a decent job. One option could be to start with unthickened epoxy then switch to thickened once I'm into the more open area of the split. Or cut the damaged area out and trade the structural integrity of the hog for a better repair. I am still in two minds.

    That transom is a bit of a problem. It actually does have two lateral flaps. Just the centre piece of that hole (about6" wide) is the missing bit of transom. My plan is to glue some temporary batten to the transom to line up the repaired piece and lay it in with thickened epoxy. Once it's set I'll pilot hole and drive countersunk stainless tappers up through the keel into the good transom. Then my daughter can cross her fingers. But I think it will do the trick.

    T

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Central New Jersey
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    Default Re: Scorpion hog problem

    Quote Originally Posted by TimXRO View Post
    Thanks Nick. I very much appreciate your view. You've helped me before, about ten years ago. Anyway, that was my initial thought. But will thickened epoxy reach the furthest nook of the split - and if it doesn't how will I know? If it doesn't I'm potentially leaving a booby trap, and the kicker is that we are only borrowing the boat so I want to do a decent job. One option could be to start with unthickened epoxy then switch to thickened once I'm into the more open area of the split. Or cut the damaged area out and trade the structural integrity of the hog for a better repair. I am still in two minds.

    That transom is a bit of a problem. It actually does have two lateral flaps. Just the centre piece of that hole (about6" wide) is the missing bit of transom. My plan is to glue some temporary batten to the transom to line up the repaired piece and lay it in with thickened epoxy. Once it's set I'll pilot hole and drive countersunk stainless tappers up through the keel into the good transom. Then my daughter can cross her fingers. But I think it will do the trick.

    T
    Just something to consider. Perhaps diluting your first coat of un-thickened epoxy 1:1 with acetone would help it reach the bottom of the crack. After 1/2 to 1 hour for the acetone evaporate you could re-coat with neat un-thickened epoxy before you fill with your thickened batch.
    Steamboat

    I get by with the judicious use of serendipity.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Scorpion hog problem

    Quote Originally Posted by TimXRO View Post
    Thanks Nick. I very much appreciate your view. You've helped me before, about ten years ago. Anyway, that was my initial thought. But will thickened epoxy reach the furthest nook of the split - and if it doesn't how will I know? If it doesn't I'm potentially leaving a booby trap, and the kicker is that we are only borrowing the boat so I want to do a decent job. One option could be to start with unthickened epoxy then switch to thickened once I'm into the more open area of the split. Or cut the damaged area out and trade the structural integrity of the hog for a better repair. I am still in two minds.

    That transom is a bit of a problem. It actually does have two lateral flaps. Just the centre piece of that hole (about6" wide) is the missing bit of transom. My plan is to glue some temporary batten to the transom to line up the repaired piece and lay it in with thickened epoxy. Once it's set I'll pilot hole and drive countersunk stainless tappers up through the keel into the good transom. Then my daughter can cross her fingers. But I think it will do the trick.

    T

    It might be a good time to read the class rules,although most of them will make an exception for repairs,but you may be constrained in the amount of freedom allowed.The knee will be doing a lot to keep everything in place and you might like to experiment with finding a suitable length screw to hold it in place until the epoxy cures.I would be tempted,if permitted,to add a vertical piece,say 80mmX15mm for at least the length of the knee on the inside of the transom and to use the aft face of it to support the replacement piece for the bottom of the transom.The knee would then resume it's duties of bracing the hog/transom connection and the additional inner piece would resist the forces imposed by the bottom pintle.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Scorpion hog problem

    Quote Originally Posted by TimXRO View Post
    Thanks Nick. I very much appreciate your view. You've helped me before, about ten years ago. Anyway, that was my initial thought. But will thickened epoxy reach the furthest nook of the split - and if it doesn't how will I know? If it doesn't I'm potentially leaving a booby trap, and the kicker is that we are only borrowing the boat so I want to do a decent job. One option could be to start with unthickened epoxy then switch to thickened once I'm into the more open area of the split. Or cut the damaged area out and trade the structural integrity of the hog for a better repair. I am still in two minds.


    T
    If it is split through and through from side to side, gentle use of a screwdriver to lever it apart, then I find that a wing or tail feather makes a good applicator to get into those thin places
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Stroud, UK
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    Default Re: Scorpion hog problem

    Folks - many thanks. I will start with thinned epoxy and eschew the cutting! Feels better.

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