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Thread: Norwegian tiller extension joint

  1. #1
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    Default Norwegian tiller extension joint

    I recently fashioned a Norwegian (push-pull) tiller and joined the transverse tiller part to the pole extension using a piece of line. It works ok but there’s a lot of give to it, which makes steering less precise, especially when going fast and getting a stronger weather helm.

    1AFC9F4E-4B64-4F2E-837D-F9C5DD13F52F.jpg


    Any suggestions on how to fashion a strong u-joint from non-specialized hardware? There is a boating shop here but its chandlery tends towards larger motor boats. Or maybe a tighter type of lashing.

    Thanks and cheers,
    ”Mr Inches”
    Last edited by 176inches; 07-11-2021 at 01:23 AM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Well, for $15 or so, you can buy THIS SWIVEL from Duckworks. I use this for my (non-Norwegian) tiller extension and it works fine.

    Tom
    You don't have to be prepared as long as you're willing to suffer the consequences.

    www.tompamperin.com

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Thanks Tom. Duckworks are good for strong, functional, inexpensive hardware and I use them for my blocks, cleats etc. I can’t order it from Greece, so maybe I’ll bring it next year. Meanwhile I fashioned a tighter connection with a different set of knots and a hard rubber washer. I’ll see how it goes.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Ah! I forgot you're in Greece. My bad.

    Good luck!

    Tom
    You don't have to be prepared as long as you're willing to suffer the consequences.

    www.tompamperin.com

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Basic mechanical parts like plastic rod ends might be available. In US, about $5 from McMaster.


  6. #6
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Lots of Laser racing, etc going on in Greece (or there was). You should be able to find or order one of these ($6USD here). I suspect you could just run the rubber shaft up through your current hole in the tiller, drill a little hole in the protruding part and pin it off.

    Good luck!
    Dave

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Mount a small cleat on the under side of the tiller arm coming out of the rudder. Then you can tighten the line to take out the slack in the joint. IMGP0638.jpgIMGP0639.jpg

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Quote Originally Posted by DGentry View Post
    Lots of Laser racing, etc going on in Greece (or there was). You should be able to find or order one of these ($6USD here). I suspect you could just run the rubber shaft up through your current hole in the tiller, drill a little hole in the protruding part and pin it off.

    Good luck!
    Dave
    They work well, but for hard use and UV exposure they must be changed every season. I bought a sloppy stainless one and pinched it and hammer beat it tight.

    Also, carry an oar you can steer with.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Thanks to all. I like the mini cleat idea.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Quote Originally Posted by lupussonic View Post
    They work well, but for hard use and UV exposure they must be changed every season. I bought a sloppy stainless one and pinched it and hammer beat it tight.

    Also, carry an oar you can steer with.
    I do have a pair of oars I made, with thole pins and loops of line. I use them a lot but not for steering. Good idea.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Why not just put a boat rivet in it instead of a line?
    If you really want to keep it a line, get a length of spectra cord. That doesn't stretch.

    Most here just have a shackle, hook or a pin on the end of the tiller that goes through the arm on the rudder.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    The currently fashionable push pull tiller misses an important Norweigian construction feature: namely if you put a round hole in your rudder head, then you don't need a universal joint at the end of the tiller arm. No hard ware and everything is tight.
    Ben Fuller
    Ran Tan, Liten Kuhling, Tipsy, Tippy, Josef W., Merry Mouth, Imp, Macavity, Look Far, Flash and a quiver of other 'yaks.
    "Bound fast is boatless man."

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    That's an interesting point, Ben--but then, you don't end up with a swivel joint, do you? What you describe sounds like a tiller that can only rotate in two planes.

    I'm not a fan of push-pull tillers anyway (I like the direct feedback of a conventional tiller), and have no intention of using one, but it seems like what you describe might not be as convenient as a tiller that can swivel in all directions. You might want to angle the tiller handle toward the centerline of the boat, for example, and that wouldn't be possible. Or did I misunderstand something?

    Tom
    You don't have to be prepared as long as you're willing to suffer the consequences.

    www.tompamperin.com

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    You may have tried this already (I can't quite see from the picture), but this what worked for me. After you have tied the rope running vertically through the arm and the tiller as tight as you can get it, then add lacings or hitches horizontally around the vertical rope between the tiller and arm and you can get the joint very very tight so that there is no slop but still the joint moves in all directions.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    The horizontal lashings are called fraps.
    They function as advertized.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Quote Originally Posted by WI-Tom View Post
    That's an interesting point, Ben--but then, you don't end up with a swivel joint, do you? What you describe sounds like a tiller that can only rotate in two planes.

    I'm not a fan of push-pull tillers anyway (I like the direct feedback of a conventional tiller), and have no intention of using one, but it seems like what you describe might not be as convenient as a tiller that can swivel in all directions. You might want to angle the tiller handle toward the centerline of the boat, for example, and that wouldn't be possible. Or did I misunderstand something?

    Tom
    What you end up with is a swivel joint that has the pieces in two places or broken into two parts with no blind spots and rock solid. The tiller handle moves horizontally pinned to the end of the yoke and vertically from the yoke tiller joint.
    Ben Fuller
    Ran Tan, Liten Kuhling, Tipsy, Tippy, Josef W., Merry Mouth, Imp, Macavity, Look Far, Flash and a quiver of other 'yaks.
    "Bound fast is boatless man."

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Ah, yep--that makes sense. Funny that hasn't been typical of U.S. push-pull set-ups.

    Tom
    You don't have to be prepared as long as you're willing to suffer the consequences.

    www.tompamperin.com

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    I don't need one myself, but I really like the looks of the cleated line Brian shows in #17. I often use bits of line to solve all sorts of fastening needs.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Fuller View Post
    The currently fashionable push pull tiller misses an important Norweigian construction feature: namely if you put a round hole in your rudder head, then you don't need a universal joint at the end of the tiller arm. No hard ware and everything is tight.
    There's a fair amount of force on the tiller arm/rudder head joint, tough spot for a wood-on-wood bearing surface. Do they keep it greased up or line the hole with something?
    Steve

    If you would have a good boat, be a good guy when you build her - honest, careful, patient, strong.
    H.A. Calahan

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Here’s one solution a Waterlust expedition canoe builder in the UK devised:

    86961E24-4281-418E-997D-B9E76E7A3E36.jpeg

    Not sure if he uses that loose end as a ‘safety’ run forward then back aboard or just knots it off.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    A brass hinge. One bolt through bottom plate and tiller arm allows port/starboard motion, hinge facing aft and upper plate bolted to push/pull stick allows up and down for stick. Cheap, easy, strong.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Quote Originally Posted by WI-Tom View Post
    Ah, yep--that makes sense. Funny that hasn't been typical of U.S. push-pull set-ups.

    Tom
    What I suspect is that the square hole was in the drawings of the most popular of the new types and people just carried on.
    Ben Fuller
    Ran Tan, Liten Kuhling, Tipsy, Tippy, Josef W., Merry Mouth, Imp, Macavity, Look Far, Flash and a quiver of other 'yaks.
    "Bound fast is boatless man."

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Quote Originally Posted by stromborg View Post
    There's a fair amount of force on the tiller arm/rudder head joint, tough spot for a wood-on-wood bearing surface. Do they keep it greased up or line the hole with something?
    I don't know, Its never been a problem in my færing which has enough clearance so even after dampness things come apart. Big wedge holds it in place. Since tallow, lanolin, is part of the maintenance kit, be easy enough to grease.
    Ben Fuller
    Ran Tan, Liten Kuhling, Tipsy, Tippy, Josef W., Merry Mouth, Imp, Macavity, Look Far, Flash and a quiver of other 'yaks.
    "Bound fast is boatless man."

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Quote Originally Posted by Ian McColgin View Post
    A brass hinge. One bolt through bottom plate and tiller arm allows port/starboard motion, hinge facing aft and upper plate bolted to push/pull stick allows up and down for stick. Cheap, easy, strong.
    Nice.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Piccolo's tiller has a bronze or brass ring at one end, which fits onto this bent hook atop the yoke. The hook goes up, then curves back and to starboard, ending at that little knob, leaving room for the ring to slip onto it.

    Can't say I was too impressed with it, though, as the tiller unhooked itself once or twice when I was sailing her. It was rather inconvenient to reattach while afloat, to say the least, and a flat water only endeavor.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    One of the things that I need that the Norse don't is a lanyard to keep me from dropping the tiller overboard. Tends to swing around behind the boat.Kind of a nuisance to grab.
    Ben Fuller
    Ran Tan, Liten Kuhling, Tipsy, Tippy, Josef W., Merry Mouth, Imp, Macavity, Look Far, Flash and a quiver of other 'yaks.
    "Bound fast is boatless man."

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    I left one end of the rope traveler long, tied it in a loop and poked the tiller through it. It does not restrict the tiller or cause drag but will keep the tiller from getting out of reach.
    ​​♦ During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act
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  28. #28
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    Default Re: Norwegian tiller extension joint

    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Fuller View Post
    One of the things that I need that the Norse don't is a lanyard to keep me from dropping the tiller overboard. Tends to swing around behind the boat.Kind of a nuisance to grab.
    Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has done that
    Steve

    If you would have a good boat, be a good guy when you build her - honest, careful, patient, strong.
    H.A. Calahan

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