Canvas rope - anchor bag

[timber_cruiser]

I am getting ready for the Salish 100 in Puget Sound. I made this bag to hold anchor rope. Plan to lay chain and 15 lb anchor on top and stow this in front of my mast (Caledonia Yawl).

Looking for ideas on straps for hold down. I have some leather which would be easy to sew on. Was also thinking about some type of rope or webbing.

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[Peerie Maa]

What are you going to secure it to? Also, how are you dealing with the bitter end?
Peerie Maa has a small fish box, the bitter end comes out through a hand hole to be secured to her structure.
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Maybe you should work a cringle with a reinforcing grommet to pass the bitter end out through the bottom of one of the sides.

[timber_cruiser]

Trying a dry fit for the bag. I want to go with soft stowage for most of my gear. I find it fits better in the boat.

Planning to tie in and close the bag. I have lots of cleats and bronze pad eyes secured to the keel for tie off points.

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[pez_leon]

Nice work! The material looks well suited - what is it?
It's not romantic, but I'd probably go with nylon straps and buckles from the hardware store. The same kind you'd find on the waist strap of a backpack. Maybe one fore and aft (looks like you've got good anchors with that padeye and the floorboards) and one athwartships, even if that athwarsthip strap could only be anchored to the boat on the keel. Do you have enough room in the top of the bag to roll it shut like a drybag before cinching the straps?
Although I think I read someone on here saying that they deliberately kept their anchor loose enough that it would deploy in the event of a capsize. Maybe it was one of the PNW crew? Speaking for my usual conditions I just want to know that the anchor will stay put until I want it.
Anyway keep us posted!

James

[stromborg]

I would put a few grommets in the bottom of the bag to drain water out (AKA "anchor juice) and snake the bitter end of the line out one them. Run enough out to tie it off to something solid, casting an overhand knot on either side of the grommet will secure the bag and line together. I would also counsel against closing the bag with wet line inside, I've made that moldy mistake, leave it open to dry.

[timber_cruiser]

James, thanks, the material is 30 oz cotton duck canvas. It is very stiff and holds shape well, but dries decent.

Steve, I appreciate the idea for the bottom grommets to drain anchor juice. I will add some.

This is what I have so far. I need to move onto other gear prep for this trip.

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I went with grommets along the top edge and two snap clips on each end of the wrap line.

[Bobcat]

How much anchor rode? We have deep water out here

[timber_cruiser]

I have 200 hundred feet in the anchor bag. Another 150 feet in the boat. The anchor has 15 feet of chain.

[Bobcat]

That should be enough

[SheilaB]

Something to keep it floating in case it blows over?

[pez_leon]

James, thanks, the material is 30 oz cotton duck canvas. It is very stiff and holds shape well, but dries decent.

Thanks for the reply! I'd be curious to learn more about this material. Do you sew it on a home machine? Where did you get it? Looks like handy stuff.

[Todd Bradshaw]

One possibility if desired for anything on a boat made from cotton cloth is treating it with something to prevent it from soaking up water. It will go a long way toward preventing any sort of mold and mildew. There are waxes which can be used, as well as various sprays. My favorite is 303 Fabric Guard, which is a pump spray and is invisible on cotton sails and canvas products until you put water on them. Instead of soaking it up, the water just rolls off. It's also one of the best UV blockers that you can find. The only drawback seems to be the price as the stuff is not cheap.

Waxes, like the one sold for re-waxing Barbour waxed cotton jackets will also work, though they will change the look of the cloth a bit. You can rub them into the cloth, heat it a bit with a hair dryer and within a couple of days the surface gets to the point where the wax isn't likely to come off on other gear. Barbour wax appears to be some sort of paraffin mixture with something in there to soften it to a thick paste consistency.

These are both hunks of Egyptian cotton. The one at right was treated with Fabric Guard. Water was poured on both and the photo was taken about 10 minutes later. The untreated sample was thoroughly soaked immediately. The treated one never did pick up water in the treated area.

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[Autonomous]

I have an old Forest Service cotton duck rucksack for my anchor and rode. I got it for free as it had been drenched in some sort of dirty oil. Even after I washed the oil out some of the wax water resistance remains.
I should probably find some wax to re-treat it. I wonder if Fluid Film would help?

[timber_cruiser]

I just returned from the Salish 100. The anchor bag worked well.

I also have a Forest Service green canvas rucksack that I used on a fire crew on the 1970's. Still use it on the boat.

I come back from the Salish with new ideas for a boat tent. There were many nice setups.

[Autonomous]

Re the Fluid Film for treating canvas. Nope, it stays fluid.

[stromborg]

There are a number of "waxed cotton dressing" products available. I used some from Filson (local high-end outdoor clothing retailer) to refresh an old Belstaff Trailmaster motorcycling jacket I inherited. Waxed cotton has a distinctive hand that I haven't noticed with some of the spray-on products.