Selway Fisher Clyde 18

[Alan71]

Hello bl,

As folks on the Forum post on occasion... "I don't know how I've missed your thread? ".

Very interesting photos and notes, and good progress on a nifty looking boat!

I'll be watching too.

Regards,
Alan

[biglad]

Alan- Feel free to chime in with thoughts- good or bad I won't be offended!

Have to say I'm enjoying this part more than the hull build. I'm working in a tight space and handling the long planks was a bit of a challenge!

[biglad]

I've been looking online at other boats and measuring the boat for the splash well in front of the transom.

I've come up with a couple of options - other ideas are very welcome!

Option 1: Floor the whole cockpit and then put a bulkhead in, starting 275 mm forward of the transom on the floor and slope it forward 150mm to allow the outboard to swing up. This would be pretty tidy but means the lower outboard mounting bolts will be under the floor. Though I will have hatches so they can be got at. The top of the outboard beam will be about 150mm above the floor. It's a 175mm wide beam and the floor sits about 25mm above the bottom of it.

Option2: Cofferdam the area and accept water will sit in a pool at the transom. I like this idea less but does mean the engine mounts are visible.

Whatever way I go I'll have a longitudinal ply piece either side between this new bulkhead and the inboard point on the transom, just before the cut out. I'll have drains through the transom with cover flaps.

[biglad]

I'm just about to order the hatches. For access to the small space between the first frame and the bow I'm thinking 200mm round hatches with the 'O' ring and screw type lids, one either side of the central girder. This is just for occasional access.

For access to the flotation space under the sole, I'm thinking 300x200mm hatches with lids which cover the screw holes. There are 'flush' fitting ones available which have rounded/sloped lids but in reality and from tech specs I see, the lid would sit about 15mm above the sole. I'll use 4 of these in the cockpit, one under each section and 2 in the cabin. In the covered 'wheelhouse' section I'm planning on fitting ply seat boxes, so will probably fit the floors to build the boxes off but not bother with a sealed floor, it's a pretty small space and will make mopping water easy.

The lockers measure c800 x 500mm so I'm planning on using the 'flush' hatches - size about 500x 280mm.

Here's a link to the sort of 'flush' hatch I'm looking at: https://www.asap-supplies.com/produc...x-265mm-814302

Do these look a sensible choice? I know they will sit slightly proud of the sole, but will it be an issue? I guess I can always fit a grate/duckboards to level off the floor if they become a sensible choice.

[Oldad]

Just be aware that most of these hatches are not waterproof. Love the build, post more pics, please....

[biglad]

Yep, thats my worry. For the lockers, I can live without being waterproof, they'll be easy enough for me to sponge out when they get damp. The sole ones bother me more though. I won't be looking in there every time I'm out, and those ones don't sit flush. There's also the safety aspect of them being buoyancy tanks. Maybe there's a watertight screw thread one that doesn't rely on a hinge and two clips to seal...

Ill get some more photos and load them up...

[John Meachen]

Have you checked out some of the hatches that go into steering consoles?They are near flush and resist quite a lot of water ingress.I don't know if you can source totally waterproof examples.

[biglad]

I haven't, and thanks for the pointer- I'll have a look at them. I need to decide pretty soon which way I'm going because my next job is to cut the sole bearers and locker tops, so can adjust the spacings to suit, within reason.

[biglad]

I've got the perimeter frame timbers cut and the 3 sole bearers that go across the 2 frames and transom cut and dry fitted. I'll cut the 4 notches each side on the timbers that ill glue to the locker fronts and then glue these on.

I'm going to go for the Osculati flush hatches. Seems there isn't a 'go to' hatch and these seem to be suitable from what I read.

Going for 4 no 200mm round ones for the sole, 2 no 530x280mm for the forward lockers, 2no 305x305mm for the aft lockers which I'll put towards the forward end, as sensibly clear of the splashwell as I can, and 2no 200mm round ones for either side of the forward frame in the cabin to access the space between the cabin and forward bulkhead.

20211206_205838.jpg

[biglad]

I've got the perimeter frame timbers cut and the 3 sole bearers that go across the 2 frames and transom cut and dry fitted. I'll cut the 4 notches each side on the timbers that ill glue to the locker fronts and then glue these on.

I'm going to go for the Osculati flush hatches. Seems there isn't a 'go to' hatch and these seem to be suitable from what I read.

Going for 4 no 200mm round ones for the sole, 2 no 530x280mm for the forward lockers, 2no 305x305mm for the aft lockers which I'll put towards the forward end, as sensibly clear of the splashwell as I can, and 2no 200mm round ones for either side of the forward frame in the cabin to access the space between the cabin and forward bulkhead.

20211206_205838.jpg

[biglad]

Sorry for the double post- did it on my mobile!

[biglad]

The locker lids and hatches arrived today. I'll put a batten behind the forward timber so the fronts of the lockers sit 25mm behind the front of the bench. I'll probably add a small hardwood trim which will set them back another 15mm or so. 20211209_203825.jpg

[biglad]

I'll hopefully get the frame for the sole bearers epoxied at the weekend. Once that's done I'll get the framework built for the lockers.

[Mike-in-Suffolk]

I've nothing to say other than that I'm watching. Keep up the good work. I nearly plumped for a similar Selway Fisher boat, so I'm interested to see how this turns out.

[biglad]

Thanks Mike, This is the second SF boat I've built. I find Paul's plans clear and easy to follow, and all the info needed is there (or in his manuals). This was a new design Paul did for me, and so far it's all gone fine.

[Oldad]

biglad, are you boing to put those hatches on the tops of the seats or on the face of the seat support? Not sure I understood what you meant in post # 82

[biglad]

I'm planning on putting them on the tops of the seats. The sit proud by only 10mm, are (apparently) walkable so strength shouldn't be an issue. I think having them on top will make it easier to use.

[Oldad]

I'm planning on putting them on the tops of the seats. The sit proud by only 10mm, are (apparently) walkable so strength shouldn't be an issue. I think having them on top will make it easier to use.

The reason I asked is they are usually more leak resistant when mounted vertically, and probably not so comfortable to sit on. Consider how often you will need to access them. Probably not often.

[biglad]

Yep, very true and vertical would be my preference. The problem I have is that the floor of the locker is lower than the sole, and because the lockers are fairly large and deep, to get anything out will mean going on my hands and knees. I thought this trade off worthwhile. I'll try again when I next go out the boat and see.

Just looked at a photo of the boat and the forward hatches (the larger ones) could be fitted to the vertical.
The aft ones might be a bit tight because the splashwell will be in front of where the lid would fall when it's open. I need to get the splashwell dimensions sorted out- don't want to fit the hatch to then not be able to open it!

[Oldad]

Always a trade off here and there. Enjoying your build...
You should be able to mock up your splaswell based on the dimensions of your motor when tipped all the way up. I think you can find those numbers online.

[biglad]

The yamaha website had the info I needed to mock up a well. Here's what I've come up with. Basically use the floor for the first 100mm, the slope up to 425mm forward of the transom, and then vertical to the seat height. I'll have a 220mm space either side of the well which will have drains from the cockpit and out through the transom. Fenders and other wet gear could be stored here (with suitable tie downs etc) so it doesn't get in the way of the motobr />
Tried to find some info on placement of batteries and wiring diagrams and locations of the parts, but didn't find much. I'd like to put the batteries forward, but a shorter cable run and having them at the transom might be better. 20211212_094350.jpg

[biglad]

Sole bearers cut tonight for the cockpit. Next job is to fit the hatches in the locker fronts. I'll frame vertically from the hull to the horizontal frame at the top of the locker and the horizontally as wide as the locker. I've got 4 inspection hatches (c200mm dia) to go in the centre of each of the compartments- in case the spacing between the bearers looks odd. 20211213_204625.jpg

[Oldad]

Oh, this might be a bit late, but wondering if you could put the battery on one side of the splash well and the gas tank on the other side. You could even use a built in gas tank with a filler and vent as required. I realize this would require some changes in your design. It does not look like you will have much if any space under the splash well for those things, but maybe you will. Hard to tell from here

[biglad]

There's not much room under the splashwell- it's a space that is 1300mm wide and triangular 175mmx250mm.

There's probably enough room for the batteries on one side, the space will be 220x425x440mm- with a corner chopped off. There's not many places where I can buy fuel in the marinas- they're pretty much diesel only- so a portable tank or two that I can fill up might be a good idea. I could either use these straight to the outboard, or fill use them to fill up the built in tank.

[biglad]

I cut the holes for the hatches tonight and started to frame them.

I've marked my proposed splash well- not sure if it's visible in the photos. It basically runs about 30mm aft of the vertical side of the hatch from the seat to the top of the outboard beam. From here it slopes to 100mm forward of the transom.
20211214_190346.jpg
20211214_204948.jpg

[biglad]

I've been putting a bit more thought into the splashwell. The 22-25l tanks I've seen are much wider than the 220mm space I have between the front of the seat and start of the transom cut out. I've brought in inboard by 160mm to give a width of 380mm for the tank. I've put a little sketch together of what I'm thinking. I spoke to the designer and his advice was to move the batteries forward, so I'm going to put them in one of the seat boxes I'm going to build under the wheelhouse. The shaded block is the outboard beam. The sole is level with the bottom of the beam. I'll put a curve on the diagonal piece to reduce the height by c100mm so the top of the splashwell will be level with the seat tops.

20211216_145757.jpg

[Oldad]

Do you have access to the drawing that shows the bolt pattern for your motor mount? That might have some effect on the design of the well.
Not sure I can see the value of The angled structures coming off the transom. I guess it would create a couple of crannies one either side where you could
stand a fender (bumper) on each side? Don't forget your will need to run your steering through the side of the splash well. The way you have it drawn that
cable will run through one of those crannies, or both if you are using the old fashioned cables and pulleys.

[biglad]

Good comments Oldad, appreciate it. Here's my thinking

The angled structures is to make the area between the locker front and the splashwell 380mm so I can get the fuel tank in. If I don't do this I'm going to have a 550mmx360mm x240mm obstacle in an already small cockpit. I'm going to put a curve on the angled panels to reduce them to the seat height , I think it comes down by about 150mm.

I dont have an engine yet, but I did a bit of research a while back on the patterns for mounting bolts and put a couple of hardwood blocks under the beam to catch the lower two bolts, if they are needed. Some of the (smaller) motors just had two top bolts. If the motor I get has lower bolts, two will be beneath the sole, but I have access hatches to go here. The only way to avoid this would be to cofferdam the area for the lower bolts.

[Oldad]

You are doing a great job. Different motors sometimes require different transom heights. Usually there is a sweet spot for mounting the motor so it is always helpful to have a specific motor in mind when you build (IMHO).

[biglad]

I have (with the designers input) changed the transom layout so that a long shaft (20") outboard can go on.

It's getting cold here in Scotland, so there's not much epoxy work happening! I'll hopefully get out later and finish off the timber work for the cockpit seats.

[biglad]

Managed a little bit tonight- cut and dry fitted with some temporary wedges the rest of the cockpit seat frames.

I'm going to leave cutting the seat tops, sole and splashwell for now. I'll be able to use smaller bits of ply for those so I'll fit those once I've got the cabin etc fitted.

I'll move onto the cabin/ wheelhouse next. I'm thinking about putting some permanent seats (ply boxes with cushions, or seats with swivels on top and storage underneath) in the wheelhouse, one either side. I'll have a sketch and see what's possible- perhaps using the forward edge of the cockpit seats as part of it.
20211220_201832.jpg

[biglad]

I havent yet managed to epoxy the final framing into the cockpit seats- its been too cold. I've marked the locations for the framing inside the cabin, and been thinking how to do it. I've got a bar stool, notepad and pencil and just doodle away!

Here's my plan for the seating in the wheelhouse. I want to be able to stand and sit when helming.

Going to go for proper seats on locking swivels. I'll mount these on 2 plywood boxes. I'll use the forward side of the cockpit seats as the aft side of these boxes. They're not quite tall enough (c100mm short) so a small piece will need added. I just need to make the top, forward and inboard sides. I'll probably epoxy the outboard edges to the hull side, rather than have a small space between the outside of the box and the hull. I'll add some hatches on the inboard side so the space here can be accessed.

I'll probably not build this just yet, as this is a convenient place for me to get in and out of the boat.20211222_113926.jpg

[John Meachen]

I suspect that with a seat that high you will need a footrest.A rough and ready mock up could pay dividends.

[Woxbox]

I'll second the suggestion for a full-scale mockup. I don't think I've ever been on a boat where this geometry was gotten just right. When there's comfortable room to stand, it tends to be an uncomfortable reach to the wheel when seated. But when the wheel is right for seated steering, when standing, it feels squeezed. Sometimes the seat can be folded up, which can alleviate this issue. It's a tricky one.

[biglad]

Thanks for the thoughts- always appreciated.

I had a look online at various diagrams others have posted, and adjusted it to what felt 'right' for the fairly small space I have. The seat height is the same as the gunwale, which when I sat on it, let me see over the top of the cabin.

I'll definitely do the mockup to see how it works. A footstool is a good shout. The wheelhouse sole doesn't carry its full height all the way from the centreline to the hull, it rises roughly half way, which would let me brace one foot.